Secondary air injection pump replace/fix - DIY
#1
Secondary air injection pump replace/fix - DIY
Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected.
The following code description is seen:
Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light
What is wrong:
From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).
The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.
Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.
NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.
Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.
Hope this helps someone make the repair.
Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump). The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.
Have fun.
The following code description is seen:
Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light
What is wrong:
From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).
The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.
Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.
NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.
Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.
Hope this helps someone make the repair.
Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump). The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.
Have fun.
#7
Thank you so much.
Mine just throw a CEL of this today. I'll def look into getting them replaced.
Mine just throw a CEL of this today. I'll def look into getting them replaced.
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#8
Thanks for the write-up! I just replaced my pump with notable damage to the pump. I'm getting the same random code and I really thing this valve is the problem Thanks for the info and pics. Rep points!!!
#9
Great write up as always Ciaka, I don't have the time or patience to do these but I sure appreciate what those who do are giving
I think I can add a couple small things.
It's the filter foam that rots an gets sucked into the pump.
If you pull off the hose from the EGR valve @ the air pump while the engine is running and can hear exhaust or feel air coming out of the rubber hose, the EGR is leaking. Conversely, you should be able to blow air throught them. When they leak the hot exhaust gas is going right into the pump.
You can pick out the foam from the blades and clean up the pump. Usually by this time the damage is done and the motor may operate but will draw to much amperage and continuously blow the 40a fuse.
For those who have a tune or are getting one, the SAI can be coded out, and I think the readiness monitors set to on so no CEL. The SAI is a lot of hardware that achieves better emissions for a short periods mostly during startup and periods of low engine speed/idle.
I think I can add a couple small things.
It's the filter foam that rots an gets sucked into the pump.
If you pull off the hose from the EGR valve @ the air pump while the engine is running and can hear exhaust or feel air coming out of the rubber hose, the EGR is leaking. Conversely, you should be able to blow air throught them. When they leak the hot exhaust gas is going right into the pump.
You can pick out the foam from the blades and clean up the pump. Usually by this time the damage is done and the motor may operate but will draw to much amperage and continuously blow the 40a fuse.
For those who have a tune or are getting one, the SAI can be coded out, and I think the readiness monitors set to on so no CEL. The SAI is a lot of hardware that achieves better emissions for a short periods mostly during startup and periods of low engine speed/idle.
#10
Which tune will do this and still pass emissions inspection? My CEL has been off for 5 days of driving. It was still giving the code after I replaced my pump for insufficient bank 2 secondary air blah blah blah at least 3 more times for the first 2 wks after replacement. It is now off again at least for a number of days. I wonder if something has dislodged from the valve that was possibly stuck open, im guessing.
#11
Which tune will do this and still pass emissions inspection? My CEL has been off for 5 days of driving. It was still giving the code after I replaced my pump for insufficient bank 2 secondary air blah blah blah at least 3 more times for the first 2 wks after replacement. It is now off again at least for a number of days. I wonder if something has dislodged from the valve that was possibly stuck open, im guessing.
The motor blowing the fuse is what sets the cel. I found that because the pump doesn't always operate it would take a different amount of time/starts/stops to set off the cel. I played with mine for a while to make them work without buying two new pumps because it wasn't important to me and on my new motor I'l be using block off plates and deleting all that.
#12
Bummer light just came on AGAIN!!!!! Frustrated..... I'm about to sell this Cayenne Turbo. Little things just keep popping up. It seems never ending. I wish I did not need emissions. It would be an easy fix.
#15
I had ~100K on it. Not sure what the typical fail period is though. The rougher the air, the quicker it would fail in my view...so dusty environment may contribute to quicker replace time. I am sure others may have a more definite view.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks for the kind words.