Have question.
Serpentine belt broke. Son was driving car and parked it when it happened.
In addition, when I arrived to car, noticed there was coolant leaking out.
Any ideas/suggestions about that? Would coolant typically leak with drive belt broken?
I did not think it would, but water pump pulley is in the path of drive belt so was thinking maybe strain on the pulley caused the leak.

I hope someone on here can:
- help explain the coolant leak
- can provide advice for what to check as I get ready to repair the drive belt to make sure I fix the car not just the belt

Appreciate guidance and help on this.

 

bueller? bueller?

 

Anyone have comments on getting the OEM genuine belt vs aftermarket? Been doing some research and some info points to some after market sometime better than oem. Thanks.

 

Car is 160k on clock.
Belt, dont remember, but I would guess about 60k.

Before the breakage, there was a small leak that I did not pd yet (was small and I planned on one weekend to take out intake and do pressure test).
Belt broke while son was driving it, said he finished reversing and tried to go forward, heard a noise and cold not move car. Then saw coolant leaking out of bottom of car (said quite a lot, I saw wet maybe 3'x3' after I got to the car, likely more).
Inside the reservoir, cannot see water level anymore.

Car is at home now, got it towed. Probably today I will take off the top, and will start looking at the damage.
My plan is to get at least the drive belt (still contemplating OEM vs good after market).
Then, see if damage to piping, hoping none.
If No additional damage, will check pulleys and do pressure test on coolant system.
That should give me info on where coolant coming out of (my guess is out of water pump, BUT water pump was replaced about 4 years ago with genuine). Coolant pipes are aluminum, I replaced all seals in it about 1.5 years ago. Also replaced the two small T pipes (plastic ones), with aluminum versions (the ones on back side of engine by driver side fire wall - PITA job).
I dont see staining around the expansion tank (you would see crusting if tank cracked).
Hope someone can chime in on:
- Drive belt oem vs good after market
- Any other reasons why coolant would pour out after drive belt broke

Thank you for help.

 

UPDATE. Been while since touched the car. Was away for more than 2 weeks. Now got the valve cover seals done. Getting to drive belt and leak.
Need advice what to remove. 3 different vent lines got broken by belt...all near front of engine, driver side, going from top under valve covers and are wrapped in silver heat protectors. Need to see how I can remove and reinstall mew ones. Also another vent line going from center of engine towards these (with valve) got broke too. here are some pics of area, wanted to get advice on what to remove to make space. Some pulleys look like have been coated with belt rubber so I need to clean then. ALSO, how would I know if a pulley is bad?
Last 2 pics are zoom of pipes that need replace. you can see the silver heat protection. Those 2 plus a vent line going from them to a valve center of engine. Maybe more once I get in there.
Water pump did not seem leaking but need to pressure test after removing intake.
Dont see any looseness yet. Thanks. Here are pics.


The two pipes below valve cover, inside heat protective sleeves, are broken by drive belt. Do they carry coolant or are they vacuum? Thanks.

 

Questions:

1. Can someone help pin point what the part number is for the top of the two horizontal pipes under valve cover in the last pic? The skinnier one? I have been looking in parts catalog but cannot find what it is. Another part that my belt broke.
2. The two parts so far I have to repolace are #14 and #15. Do these carry coolant or are they air vacuum lines?

Thanks.

 

I still have not got the pressure test done. Busy working from home with family being total PITA on everything not comprehending when I work, I work. Period. .
Well, maybe this weekend I will reserve for the car. Still have not been able to ID the thiner of the two pipes that are wrapped in silver shield under the valve cover in last pic above.
That one is broken too, and cannot locate in parts catalog. Need help on that. Other two pipes from diagram, 14, and 15 arrived.
Also need advice on removing the pipes from there without removing whole front bumper and rad. I am sure there must be way. Thanks for all help.

 

I had time to work on the car today.

Coolant leak: Discovered that because the drive belt broke, water pump stopped spinning, making engine hot and under higher pressure. This resulted in one of the hoses coming out of the coolant tank resevoir (cap), that goes to what I presume is the back of the cooling pipes somewhere, slid off and is now dangling down behind the engine. That is where the coolant is coming from, that hose slid off. Checked water pump visually after removing remains of belt, and there is no evidence of coolant leaking from the pump area, pulley seems solid spinning freely. So looks fine.

Belt: Removed the belt, man that thing got chewed up. Looks like the tensioner pulley shock is not working well. I removed the pulley and all sort of rubber were on it from the rubbing. Also, I can move the pulley shock with hand by pushing/pulling, about 8th of an inch or so. So looks like adjuster shock is fubar. The tensioner pulley was coated in all sorts of rubber from the belt grinding against the pulley. I was able to clean off but the grooves look like they were all ground down. See below pic and let me know if that looks used up. I think pulley plus tensioner is in order to be bought.
The belt did not seem to exhibit excessive age (cracking, etc). I bent it and did not see typical old belt cracks. But did see multiple flat spots on one side (evidence of not enough tension? grinding as belt was sliding off?, etc?).

Hoses beneath valve cover: The thicker one, I was able to get off with hands. Hallelujah. Had to cut insulation with blade, then came off. New one has its own new insulation, so looks like will be fine. Hope I dont have isues installing, we will see. The thinner hose - well, this is a part of vent system that comes from the other side of engine. Thin line, comes out beneath valve cover for cyl 1-4, goes to front of engine, climbs up to top, crosses over engine in area of throttle body, then goes diagonally down near radiator. On the way down, the hose has a clip connection (one you press both sides to pull out), then seems to have a plastic ending, which is held to the thinner insulated pipe (beneath valve cover of cyl 5-8), with a metal band. The plastic piece seems to have been snapped and the section of hose fell down to bottom of engine covers. Have it, the piece near band looks like broke off.
My options are: use jbweld to weld piece together, re use the piece. Another option is to get thick rad hose, enough to put onto pipe going below valve covers (cyl 5-8) and use metal clamp on it. Then other end of the short hose, clamp to the section of pipe that still remains. One end of it would clamp into rubber hose, the other still fits into the pipe section going to cyl 1-4.

Anyway, here are some pics. Slow going but its because I have work Mon-Fri and dont have as much time as I imagined I would have. Maybe I should get me some covid19, so I can isolate myself in garage. Hmmmm.

So far, cleaned up pulleys, removed old belt, cleaned area, removed the thick hose beneath valve covers, now gotta order pulley and tensioner, then assemble. Then can move to take intake out and repair the blown off hose in back of engine.
Man, I should pring me out a mechanic school certificate after this job.



Tension pulley with tensioner...the belt just coated the pulley.



Thats same pulley but cleaned up.



Tensioner pulley, seems like grooves are gone.

Tension pulley clean but showing grooves. Are they supposed to be like this? Did not think so.



Belt, dont see cracking...



...but see flat spots on one side..






Remains of entire belt...seems to have been cut length wise, not across..symptom of thrown off pulley I assume, likey because tensioner, my assumption. What do you think?



This is the other idle pulley before cleaning.

 

I also found out what the thinner insulated hose is beneath the valve cover in pics above. It is the turbo charger control line, number 5 item on diagram below.
Found out that the line was broken at the point labeled #1 in blue in diagram. That part of line between #1 and #2, is hard plastic, and the ending at #1 goes onto another plastic piece, looks like it is hot pressed onto it.
When belt slid off, it took that line out, so that the connection at #1 slipped of the rest of the line, and connection at #2 is still intact, and can be reconnected. However the part at #1 will have to be glued or something.

The new piece for that part #5 in diagram, is about $250. I am thinking to get some heater hose that will be just large enough to slip onto the ending behind #1 location, and I can use metal clamp to secure in place. Then use the original pipe to put into the other end of the heater hose, and use another metal clamp to secure. Then, maybe leave connection at #2 as is, or get another piece of heater hose, and using 2 clamps, join the lower pipe to the upper pipe. Anyone have opinions on this? Given the purpose of the line? What is exact purpose of that line?
Anyway, appreciate any feedback. Thanks. This will be a slow job, when I have time.
Here is the pic.

 

I've not read all of your posts above, so may have missed it, but ....

While you're in there with all that torn out, replace the water pump too in order to save all that work to get to one later - & probably change the timing chain is due at 160K also (if that model has one, or a belt). You'll thank yourself later on.

Unless you can find a Porsche Tech (indy or dealer) who recco's aftermarket belt over OEM, go with the OEM/Genuine Porsche part. Again, you'll thank yourself.

Also, change your serpentine belt at the recco'd interval in the owners manual or per the service manual or dealer recco.

Cheers!
Tom
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Thanks Tom. Yep.
I only use genuine parts on all my Porsches. There is a reason they are more expensive (for the vast majority of parts). Superior design and components.
Drive belt is only replaceable part - that is what broke, so replacing. Also replacing some pulleys and tensioner shock, which I can move with hand about 8th of an inch, no good.
Yes, the belt was changed and was still good. The tension went, caused belt to skip onto pulley, cut belt and then shred. Thats my observation based on belt and leftovers I saw.
I am the tech Indy shop for my house.

 

Yeah - I guessed that you were the tech, but most dealers/indies will still give advice on parts & work.

At 67+, I'm happy to have my P-tech since 1975 do the work on my cars, since he's reasonable price, does great work , he covers everything, & most importantly, he knows more than me. Whereas my own screw-ups aren't covered. LOL

The Cay 6 or 8 water pump is a replaceable item, & most dealers & shops will replace them on schedule or whenever they're tearing open the front of an engine like that.

They do so because it's such an expensive PITA to get to them, that the labor far outweighs the part cost for an early-ish replacement. Even if you're home full time right now without work-at-home, your time is also worth something (e.g.: what you're paid hourly equivalent).

AFAIK Porsche is still using plastic impellers/blades on water pumps, & there have been known issues of them as they age breaking off bits & then doing internal damage to their very expensive engines.

Just another DA move by Porsche to save weight/money & not do their normally better engineered parts - such as the 955/Panamera V8 plastic coolant pipes, 958/Panamera V8's AH08 Recall's cam adjuster bolts (huge topic on here for that), DieselGate, & the infamous IMS problem.

Oh wait - talk to any German Engineer & they never make a mistake, it's just an "issue"! ;-/

Cheers!
Tom
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Lol. Maybe you mis interpret what I said. I am happy to have certified mechanics too. I am even more happy to be able to do the same job at a fraction of the cost. Most repair these days is not overly complicated, and for the work I cannot tackle, I am surely happy to have a mechanic around.

 

No, I understood, just wanted to clarify.

While I could do some of it myself still today, but most requires a well equipped shop, & time is my issue - not to mention aching back, knees, shoulders, etc. I used to do most all of the work on my cars back in the day of the 1960s-70s, before you needed $XX,000 electronic testers. When I got my 73 914-2.0 with the EFI/ECU in 1975, I figured that I'd have to save a ton on work to buy the then $20K ECU/EFI test unit for a car which I bought for $4500!

Cheers!
TT
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Got time to work on car today. Some new parts came in Friday (tension roller and tension shock). New tensioner in. New tensioner roller in. All pulleys checked and cleaned. Done. New pipe, #15, in. Was going to start putting together, wanted to do pressure test on coolant. Discovered the oil cooler line at the T connector is leaking very slowly (very slow leak, I assume plastic T is crap now. So off I go buy the line now and wait some more. The Coolant vent line for engine banks has not arrived yet, so doing this slowly. Guess good thing coronavirus thing still going on. Talk about turning negative into positive.
Hoping these are all the parts. Checked, do not see anything else wrong, but wont know til car started. Trying to be extra gentle with all the vacuum lines - old and small crack = engine light.
Looks like if I get a chance to work on this car tomorrow, I will be draining coolant (what is left), and removing the oil cooler line. TBC.