So they gave us a tube for it, but no stick. Does anyone know if there is an actual Porsche P/N for one to be added? If not, does the Audi or VW version of the engine have one that is compatible (e.g. has the correct markings)?

I know that it's not needed with the electronic system, but removing the dipstick is one of those changes that MFGs are making that I resent a little bit (especially when the tube is still there).

 

One of the guys at my shop used to work with Audis at the dealer and they all had dipsticks for a quick level check. Get one for a 2010 Touareg or Q7. Use a VIN from one of these for sale so the parts guy can find it on his parts diagram.

2010 Volkswagen Touareg
VIN: WVGFK7A90AD004162

2010 Audi Q7
VIN: WA1LMAFE0AD003155

 

Thanks

 

The tube is still there as an access port for oil extraction systems. In fact I just bought one off eBay last week, it's powered by my air compressor. I'm too old to be lying on my back under the car. So as long as the extraction point, the filter, and the fill point are all right on top of the engine - that's where I'll do my oil changes from now on. Given the absurd prices reported regarding a dealer oil change - coupled with the revised 5000 mile interval - the extractor will have paid for itself upon its very first use. Anybody looking at this type device though, should check the air pressure requirements first. This one requires up to 145 psi.

//greg//

 

I keep going back and forth on the extractors. I could change the oil in front of my townhouse rather slogging out to my brother's place, but I'm just not convinced on the process and like many things its hard to tell the good information from the bad.

Besides, its the wife that changes the oil so I already don't have to crawl around underneath (I think the extractor would have been far cheaper the the long run though...)

 

only about 200 miles before 1st oil change. I'll post a 'first impressions' summary once complete.

//greg//

 

Greg:

Did you ever do your oil change?

 

Yes, and with mixed results. New car+new extractor=learning experience. I made an incorrect assumption that if I parked the car with the extraction port at the lowest position, that I'd extract the most oil. When the extractor started sucking air, I changed the filter and put in six quarts. Then I checked the oil level, only to find out that I'd already over-filled it. So I drove up on a set of ramps and looked underneath. Sure enough, the oil pan has a belly. I hadn't inserted the extractor probe far enough into the pan. So I sucked some more out. When I estimated by the level gauge on the extractor that I'd taken out at least two quarts. I checked the level again.

This time it said I'd gone below minimum! So I started adding oil a half quart at a time, but the minimum warning won't clear. I'm sure I put enough in to have it above max again, but the minimum warning is still present. So I let the car set overnight, and will get back to it today. Going back up on the ramps, will drain from underneath, then pour it back in one measured quart at a time. I'll just replace seven quarts (so that I'm sure I'm not over max), then take it to my local independent to reset the service reminder. Only time will tell if that will reset the below minimum warning as well.

//greg//

 

What good is a physical dipstick anymore?

I believe you have to run the engine for a bit to get the min warning to clear which just seems dangerously stupid to me. This was discussed a bit in the thread about the TT engine that is getting replaced. --edit-- According to the iPhone version of the manual it says the vehicle needs to be parked on a level surface and the engine has to be at "operating temperature". You also have to wait 2 minutes from when you added oil last. --edit--

I've been on the fence about these extractors. They seem like they could indeed make life simple (and save me a 70mi round trip to my brothers house), but I just worry about leaving too much old oil in. Can't say your story helped

How was getting it on the ramps? I was thinking about that route vs jack and stands, but the wife has driven a car over ramps before and then pointed out how twitchy this thing can be with all its torque. Any issues? Which ramps do you use?

 

Well, I was not a huge fan of the extractors before. I don't mind crawling underneath and getting greasy. On my MDX, I could honestly squeeze under without stands or ramps, but once I got ramps I started using them.

 

Precisely the reason I want a dipstick

 

Yeah, I read about one guy who said it will go out after 40 miles driving. But good grief, what kind of engineering is that !? And to make matters works - if I recall correctly - he said it came back on later anyway. Regardless, I'm going to drain from the bottom and pour a measured 7 quarts back in this time. I fully expect to continue using the extractor, as I'll be a bit more educated in the process come next oil change. My reason for going the extractor route is rapidly advancing arthritis in my spine; it's lumbar and cervical now, and the two are apparently progressing toward an eventual meeting in the middle. So I welcomed the opportunity to do an oil change standing up.

Ramps are of unknown pedigree or age. Passed down to me from my father, who's dead some 17 years now. He might even have bought them used, I'll never know. But I can say they come from a day when 10" wide tires weren't envisioned. With my tires overlapping the stop point, I too nearly drove over the edge. Next time I'll have a spotter telling me when to stop.

//greg//

 

Definitely going to stick with the oil extraction method. Went up on ramps, removed 8 cap screws to get the damned lower cover off, just to gain clearance to the first visible drain plug. It came out easily with a hex key, and I noted with curiosity that there was no crush washer. Also couldn't figure out why <2 quarts came out, until - back in full daylight - I realized it wasn't even engine oil. My manual indicates that the transmission is a sealed unit that can only be serviced by the dealer at 160,000 miles or 16 years. So from the perspective of being upside down in the semi-dark, I never dreamed I'd get transmission fluid out of that drain plug.

So I moved forward and had to remove 6 more bolts holding a second section of lower cover. Once removed, the engine drain plug is still barely visible, almost directly above a silver colored latitudinal brace of some sort. Can't get the plug out with a simply hex key either. It was torqued down to the point where I needed a something bigger to break it free. I fortunately had the right size hex holder socket in my tool box, otherwise that meant coming down off the jack stands and driving into town for yet another seldom used tool. No crush washer either. This one was a thin copper washer with a rubber-coated outer edge.

Anyway. Drained out about 1.5 quarts, and - against all logic - the red "below minimum" warning went away. Not surprisingly however, it was replaced by the green "exceeds max". At this point I shouldSo I drained out another 1.5 quarts. Now it simply says something like "oil level information not yet available". So I pulled it back into the garage and will hope to finish sorting it out today. Am hoping the drive to my independent (to get the Change Oil Now service indicator reset) will jump start the electronic oil level display. I'll carry a quart along just in case I took out too much.

Didn't replace the two lower covers yet, on the off chance that it's still over max. But once replaced, I'm definitely not getting under that car for any more oil changes. Going to get the appropriate dipstick too, even if I only use it to make sure I don't again over-fill at oil change time.

Hopefully the independent will also know how to go about replacing those two quarts of transmission fluid.

//greg//

 

Greg,
When you pull the rear cover there is a plug about the size of a quarter that takes a 6mm hex driver. Are you saying that isn't the oil drain? It sure looked to be on the oil pan to me...

 

Well, on mine the rear section of the bottom engine cover revealed a quarter sized silver plug as you state. But it took a smaller hex; 4mm I think. And it wasn't tight at all. The oil pan plug under the forward section of the bottom engine cover is also about the same size, but took a 6mm hex and a lot more muscle. Look above that silver colored cast metal cross member. Regardless, I suggest you only loosen whichever plug enough to get a drop on your finger. Then take it out in the daylight to see what color it is. Black will be engine oil. Anything else, you're at the wrong drain.

//greg//