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Nano = dust! What am I doing wrong?

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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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Nano = dust! What am I doing wrong?

I used Menzerna nano for the first time yesterday and was amazed and annoyed by all the dust. Previously I used SIP, which I don't recall creating so much dust. I used a Lake Country white pad with my PC set to about 5-1/2. Did I do something wrong?

Second question: Is it normal for the PC to have a big jump in speed/noise/vibration between 5-1/2 and 6 on the dial? 5-1/2 seems too slow, but 6 would rattle my hands off my arms after a few minutes.

Jeff
 
Old Mar 9, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MidnighTT
I used Menzerna nano for the first time yesterday and was amazed and annoyed by all the dust. Previously I used SIP, which I don't recall creating so much dust. I used a Lake Country white pad with my PC set to about 5-1/2. Did I do something wrong?

Second question: Is it normal for the PC to have a big jump in speed/noise/vibration between 5-1/2 and 6 on the dial? 5-1/2 seems too slow, but 6 would rattle my hands off my arms after a few minutes.

Jeff
If you're not using enough Nano Polish, it will dust on you. You may be running the risk of dry buffing, which is when there's little polish on a dry pad from the polish breaking down. Also, the highest setting I use on the PC is 5. So you want to start at 3, work the polish in, and then kick it up to 5 to finish. Hope this helps, and don't hesitate to call me.
 
Old Mar 9, 2008 | 04:41 PM
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It should also be noted that using too much will create a dust storm just as easy.
 
Old Mar 9, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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I was having issues with 106FF today as well. At first I thought it was humidity when it was raining yesterday. Today I experienced the same issues only on some panels. My problems was that I got dusting on some panels only and the polish seemed to flash quickly and get grabby.

My guess is that something on the paint was reacting with the 106. I did a wipedown with Iso alcohol and water and it seems to improve things a bit.

In the future I plan on switching to 3M Ultra Fina when I have these issues with 106.
 
Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:35 AM
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Pat, you should switch to Fina anyhow
 
Old Mar 10, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BrianBrice
Pat, you should switch to Fina anyhow
Yeah I know....I had some but ended up finishing with 106... Next time for sure.
 
Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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Either switch to 3M Ultra Fina as Brian said or you can use 106FF with Clearkote Red Moose Machine Glaze, it will cut the dusting down dramatically.
 
Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MartinD
Either switch to 3M Ultra Fina as Brian said or you can use 106FF with Clearkote Red Moose Machine Glaze, it will cut the dusting down dramatically.
Thanks for the advice to the members.....do you want to become a sponsor or will have the respect for the board and remove your company info from your signature.....
 
Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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Thank you for the quick response.
 
Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:29 AM
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Not a problem.
 
Old Mar 11, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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What was the temp outside & paint temp? 106 doesn't like the cold.

Yes, 5.5 to 6 is a BIG difference in vibration & noise. It will also really affect pad life, so stick to 5.5 & under.

Try using just a little more product, & maybe spraying down the pad with a little water spritzer bottle.
 
Old Mar 11, 2008 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth 993
What was the temp outside & paint temp? 106 doesn't like the cold.

Yes, 5.5 to 6 is a BIG difference in vibration & noise. It will also really affect pad life, so stick to 5.5 & under.

Try using just a little more product, & maybe spraying down the pad with a little water spritzer bottle.
+1...Well said.
 
Old Mar 11, 2008 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth 993
What was the temp outside & paint temp? 106 doesn't like the cold.

Yes, 5.5 to 6 is a BIG difference in vibration & noise. It will also really affect pad life, so stick to 5.5 & under.

Try using just a little more product, & maybe spraying down the pad with a little water spritzer bottle.
It was fairly cool, probably high 50s to low 60s, so that may be the key. I did spritz the pad before starting.

Thanks for the feedback on the PC - I wondered if my speed dial was defective. I'll stick at or below 5.5 from now on.

Jeff
 
Old Mar 14, 2008 | 07:41 AM
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One thing to remember is that SIP/106ff are not "body shop" polishes which tend to be easier to work with. They are for production work, which tend to have controlled enviroments (speed, temp, humidity, paint type). When polishes are tuned to specific conditions, they loose some of the "overlap" that allows them to be effective on everything. Instead of "jack of all trades" they become "master of one".

SIP/106ff where never meant to be imported for use in the detailing field (straight from Jeff Silver, Menzerna USA). CMA in Tampa started importing these polishes, adding more oil, and selling them under the label "BlackFire". As Jeff explained, Menzerna didn't want their production polishes in the general public for some of the weird reasons that crop up when such focused polishes are used out of their enviroment.

However when a relabeler is making money on your product, its hard to say no. Esp. when 106ff/SIP can work so brilliantly. So while they are great products to have a round, if you use them enough if you will run into problems with them.

For secondary products its nice to have some "jack of all trade" polishes which are less focused but will play nice in a wide varitey of conditions. 3M UltraFina is designed for body shop guys (who cannot buff) so it is pretty user friendly and finishes down as nice as any polish I have used on a rotary.
 
Old Mar 14, 2008 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ToddHelme
One thing to remember is that SIP/106ff are not "body shop" polishes which tend to be easier to work with. They are for production work, which tend to have controlled enviroments (speed, temp, humidity, paint type). When polishes are tuned to specific conditions, they loose some of the "overlap" that allows them to be effective on everything. Instead of "jack of all trades" they become "master of one".

SIP/106ff where never meant to be imported for use in the detailing field (straight from Jeff Silver, Menzerna USA). CMA in Tampa started importing these polishes, adding more oil, and selling them under the label "BlackFire". As Jeff explained, Menzerna didn't want their production polishes in the general public for some of the weird reasons that crop up when such focused polishes are used out of their enviroment.

However when a relabeler is making money on your product, its hard to say no. Esp. when 106ff/SIP can work so brilliantly. So while they are great products to have a round, if you use them enough if you will run into problems with them.

For secondary products its nice to have some "jack of all trade" polishes which are less focused but will play nice in a wide varitey of conditions. 3M UltraFina is designed for body shop guys (who cannot buff) so it is pretty user friendly and finishes down as nice as any polish I have used on a rotary.
Interesting take on Menzerna Todd. I sent this thread to Jeff Silver, Menzerna USA, to verify the validity, and let's just say he was amused. I've been using Menzerna for about 2 years now, switched from Meguiar's, and there hasn't been one situation I could not remedy using the correct polish/compound/pad combination. According to Menzerna's site, their polishes and compunds are silicone-free and safe for body shops who actually DO buff cars with polish and compounds.

http://www.menzernausa.com/AutoShopF...otive_Shop.htm

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