I notice whenever I use CR2 Spotless, the water pressure is pretty low (even I use the fireman hose). It's just weak comparing to when not using it at all.

Does anyone have tips on how to get the 'regular water pressure' when using this unit?

Thanks.

 

The only way is to increase water pressure.

You might do better with a smaller nozzle as well.

 

Thank you, sir!

John

 

I don't want a lot of pressure as I only use it to rinse the rinse water off the car and I want it to "sheet" off. Have a plastic (so it won't scratch if it touches the car) shut off valve and no nozzle.

 

You should be using the nozzle that came with the unit, or any other nozzle that has a FLAT setting. The reason being that the CR should not be connected to a water source with greater than 40 psi or 2 gpm on the smaller unit or 4 gpm on the larger unit. Reason being that the numbers I just quoted are the optimum performance ratings and if you you above them, you will run the risk of spotting since the water goes through the resin bed too fast. Most home water pressure is about 70-90 psi and the nozzle can restric it to about 40 psi which is pleanty of pressure to wash a car; that's what I do everyday. I don't use a pressure washer, just the house line. Hope this helps.

 

imc and Moe, thank you!

Moe, I don't use it with a pressure washer. I will try to dig out the nozzle that came with the unit instead of using fireman hose Thank you.

John

 

I'd recommend a low cost electric pressure washer...

I have a pretty elaborate system for washing my 997TT.

In my area, my water is extremely mineralized...we're talking water TDS of over 550 to 600. Mostly calcium, silica, and iron...all of which will etch clear coat (don't even get me started about how I found that out.)

The spigot in garage is actually softened water...this runs to a DIC-20 deionizer, which then in turn runs to my Home Depot/Husky 1800 PSI electric pressure washer.

I use the pressure washer to presoak, foam, and rinse my car with deionized water. Most people don't bother using deionized water until the end rinse, but my water (even softened) is so bad, I don't want to take any risks.

As long as you don't hold the nozzle closer than 3-4 feet, and use the medium wide fan (lower pressure) your paint will be safe. In fact, I would argue, that in Wisconsin winter, it is safer to presoak, foam, and rinse the salt off with a pressure washer than to risk scratching the surface with any mitt.

 

Well said...you seem to have a few strikes against you but have managed to make it work. For the average DIY, I recommend using the CR all the way. Depending on how hard the water is, you can wash your car every 2 weeks and not have to change the resin for about 3-6 months.

 

Also remember that the resin duration really depends on how poor your water quality is as well.

Yesterday we encountered a customer that hasn't replaced his resin in over 8 months, and it is still working perfectly. He washes his car weekly, so we know that he was using it a great deal. The reason he has had such a long duration with the system is because he has soft water running into the CR, which only helps to extend its lifespan.

 

How long have you had the pressure washer and how reliable is it? Also, are you saying that you don't even use a wash mitt? Touchless wash??

-Thanks!!

 

Actually, the soft water portion has no effect on the CR. The reason being that we are more concerened about the AMOUNT of impurities, not the TYPE. Soft water systems take the calcium and magnesium and exchange it for sodium and chloride, essentially salt water. The parts per million, PPM, count still is the same. DI water exchanges the Mg and Ca particles for hydrogen and hydroxide, H + OH = H2O AND reduces the PPM count. There's all sort of resin tyoe that do different things. But in a nutshell, that's the chemistry behind DI water.