Pad density
Pad density
Can someone explain to me if LC's yellow pads have more cut, why the density of the foam is less than the orange pads? I just noticed this when I cleaned my pads this weekend.
I know each car is different, and everyone has a different technique, but in general, I had been judging pad cutting strength and matching it with polishes versus finishers. For example...I know many use Menzerna P085RD with white or blue pads, but I have never got anywhere with that combo...I've always used the green pad. Am I misjudging pads? Is the pad density unrelated to cutting strength?
I know each car is different, and everyone has a different technique, but in general, I had been judging pad cutting strength and matching it with polishes versus finishers. For example...I know many use Menzerna P085RD with white or blue pads, but I have never got anywhere with that combo...I've always used the green pad. Am I misjudging pads? Is the pad density unrelated to cutting strength?
Can someone explain to me if LC's yellow pads have more cut, why the density of the foam is less than the orange pads? I just noticed this when I cleaned my pads this weekend.
I know each car is different, and everyone has a different technique, but in general, I had been judging pad cutting strength and matching it with polishes versus finishers. For example...I know many use Menzerna P085RD with white or blue pads, but I have never got anywhere with that combo...I've always used the green pad. Am I misjudging pads? Is the pad density unrelated to cutting strength?
I know each car is different, and everyone has a different technique, but in general, I had been judging pad cutting strength and matching it with polishes versus finishers. For example...I know many use Menzerna P085RD with white or blue pads, but I have never got anywhere with that combo...I've always used the green pad. Am I misjudging pads? Is the pad density unrelated to cutting strength?
This just proves if you find the right product and pad combination you can achieve some pretty awesome results with a random orbit which is much more safe for novice detailer who want 70% to 85% paint correction of the pro's.
I have spent many years testing foam from various buffing pad companies. The Pads I have preferred were edge pads from dedication to detail. I have worked with the owners for the past 10 years on beta testing different type of foams combinations and finding the right application for the gloss-it polishes.
Great question! There are many different types of foam available. There are many factors to what you called density, also referred to as PPI by foam manufactures. You have closed cell foam and open cell foam pads. You can tell the difference by breathing through the pads. You will know the difference when air cannot pass through the foam. Closed cell foams have a lot more bite because they allow the product to sit on top of the pad and do not absorb like open cell foam. As a example we are able to achieve removing 1500 wet sand scratches with the orange foam pad ( closed cell ) and random orbit Cyclo Polisher. In most applications you would need a high-speed orbit to build enough heat and the right abrasive to remove these scratches.
This just proves if you find the right product and pad combination you can achieve some pretty awesome results with a random orbit which is much more safe for novice detailer who want 70% to 85% paint correction of the pro's.
I have spent many years testing foam from various buffing pad companies. The Pads I have preferred were edge pads from dedication to detail. I have worked with the owners for the past 10 years on beta testing different type of foams combinations and finding the right application for the gloss-it polishes.
This just proves if you find the right product and pad combination you can achieve some pretty awesome results with a random orbit which is much more safe for novice detailer who want 70% to 85% paint correction of the pro's.
I have spent many years testing foam from various buffing pad companies. The Pads I have preferred were edge pads from dedication to detail. I have worked with the owners for the past 10 years on beta testing different type of foams combinations and finding the right application for the gloss-it polishes.
Nice info Rich.
Thanks Rich.
So why is it that some forum members have better performance with a particular polish (in this case Menzerna's P085RD) and a pad on the same car, while others will find better results with another? Is it just simply personal preference? Because I swear that I get nowhere with a blue or white LC pad, but most of my friends swear by it. You would think that by eliminating more variables (same manufacturer of paint, same polish, same technique) you'd get more objective results than subjective.
So why is it that some forum members have better performance with a particular polish (in this case Menzerna's P085RD) and a pad on the same car, while others will find better results with another? Is it just simply personal preference? Because I swear that I get nowhere with a blue or white LC pad, but most of my friends swear by it. You would think that by eliminating more variables (same manufacturer of paint, same polish, same technique) you'd get more objective results than subjective.
Thanks Rich.
So why is it that some forum members have better performance with a particular polish (in this case Menzerna's P085RD) and a pad on the same car, while others will find better results with another? Is it just simply personal preference? Because I swear that I get nowhere with a blue or white LC pad, but most of my friends swear by it. You would think that by eliminating more variables (same manufacturer of paint, same polish, same technique) you'd get more objective results than subjective.
So why is it that some forum members have better performance with a particular polish (in this case Menzerna's P085RD) and a pad on the same car, while others will find better results with another? Is it just simply personal preference? Because I swear that I get nowhere with a blue or white LC pad, but most of my friends swear by it. You would think that by eliminating more variables (same manufacturer of paint, same polish, same technique) you'd get more objective results than subjective.
Some owners press down harder while washing/drying thus causing the swirls to be deeper, some are less as well as about a 1,000,000 other variables.
Another big deal is technique, others may be working the polish in much slower then you are thus getting better results or they may be appling more down pressure or such things....
Remember even though you may have the exact same car model, year and color, doesn't mean it will polish out exactly like someone elses.
You have to learn what it takes for your own and adjust according to what your cars paint needs.
Keep playing with it and you'll find the magic combo.
Also don't be afraid to turn your PC up to 5-6 while polishing it if you want real results.
Josh
Thank you Josh.
Living in my area, unfortunately, I am plagued with bad water...I'm on a private well, with a TDS measured at over 550 ppm with nearly 33 grains per million. Any deionizer I use runs out very very quickly because of the hardness...thus, I had softened, de-ironed water running to my garage, then to my CR-Spotless filter. Despite all this, I still deal with occasional water spots...especially on a black car. They are much easier to deal with now that I pre-rinse, wash, and final-spray my car with my CR-Spotless, however, spots still do occasionally occur.
I have found that using my PC with a green LC pad, at about 3500, and P085RD takes care of most of these issues, however my worry was the repeated act of polishing (about twice a year.) Although the water spots have been cut down by generous waxing and sealing, they are my biggest problem.
Living in my area, unfortunately, I am plagued with bad water...I'm on a private well, with a TDS measured at over 550 ppm with nearly 33 grains per million. Any deionizer I use runs out very very quickly because of the hardness...thus, I had softened, de-ironed water running to my garage, then to my CR-Spotless filter. Despite all this, I still deal with occasional water spots...especially on a black car. They are much easier to deal with now that I pre-rinse, wash, and final-spray my car with my CR-Spotless, however, spots still do occasionally occur.
I have found that using my PC with a green LC pad, at about 3500, and P085RD takes care of most of these issues, however my worry was the repeated act of polishing (about twice a year.) Although the water spots have been cut down by generous waxing and sealing, they are my biggest problem.
I have found that using my PC with a green LC pad, at about 3500, and P085RD takes care of most of these issues, however my worry was the repeated act of polishing (about twice a year.) Although the water spots have been cut down by generous waxing and sealing, they are my biggest problem.
My favorite combo is green with 106, 1100 rpm's but that's with a rotary.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Josh/AWE
991 Turbo
30
Apr 2, 2020 05:38 PM





