I did a full wash/clay/polish/wax job on my Range Rover and have a few questions. Since the truck is brand new, I only polished it in a few spots, namely the hood. After polishing, I used Zymol HD Cleanse. I let it set for about 20 seconds, then tried to remove with a soft microfibre cloth. However, it was INCREDIBLY hard to remove. I had to scrub it HARD to come off. I washed the truck in the shade, pulled it into the garage and let it set for about 1/2 hr before doing the clay. It was only about 65-70 degrees outside. So, the surface was well cooled before I started to polish.

This was only the case on the hood. The few smaller spots where I had to take out some minor swirls from the dealer prep worked great with the HD. Is this due to some reaction with the polish? I was using Menzerna super intensive. I applied the Menz. polish with the PC on speed #3, then worked it in on #5. I'm thinking I didn't work it in thoroughly enough and there must have been a residue left. Expert suggestions appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

It sounds like you let the HD cleanse sit too long. It doesn't have to sit very long for it to work, and if you're working somewhere that there is a lot of air circulation, or very hot, it will dry very fast. How were your end results?

John

 

If Menzerna is not fully broken down (ie. a thin clear haze left on the paint) it will be very difficult to remove/buff off even with an IPA wipedown. I think thats your problem and not so much the HD cleanse. Go back an re-polish the problem areas and make sure you have fully broken down the polish, watch it thin out and clear as you work it. With Menzerna you can see the stages of breakdown, when you think its fully broken down run your finger through the polished area, if the polish feels butter smooth and your finger is able to take off the residue easily than your ok to buff it off.

 

HD Cleanse isn't really time dependent. There are times where I HD the entire car before going to remove it, and it doesn't make any difference.

I would guess that you didn't fully remove the SIP, which is why the HD was difficult to remove from the hood, and not the other areas of the car.

Also remember that HD Cleanse doesn't need to go on thick. It is more difficult to remove if you use a ton of it, which isn't necessary. Simply wipe it on and work it in until it is almost totally clear, that is when it is fully broken down and the most effective.

 

It seems that you may have used too much hd and didn't work it into the paint all the way. Since Menzerna SIP has no silicones, it will not have adverse reactions with hd cleanse. If you're outdoors, apply hd too thick, don't work hd into the paint until transparent, and use a microfiber to remove, it will be difficult.

Here's the correct way to do the process you have described:

1. Clay
2. Wipe off clay residue with IPA or rinse the whole car and dry
3. Polish with SIP and wipe down with IPA
4. Polish with Nano Polish (106) and wipe down with IPA
5. Apply hd. Use about a quarter-sized amount to work half the hood and possibly the fender. You can actually feel hd getting into the paint and working. You know you're complete when the hd is almost removed all the way. A very light haze or tranparent appearance assures you of proper application
6. Remove hd with microfiber POLISHING cloth. This is the waffle-weave towel that is thin and was part of your kit.
7. Apply the concours wax that you have

Now remember, factors such as temp., humidity, wind, etc. affect the process since you're outdoors. You must take these into consideration. If it's a hot day and windy, then your products will dry faster and you have shorter working time. If it's a cold day and it's humid, most of the products you have will not even work to their potential if outdoors. Ideally, you want to be in a controlled environment, such as a garage, when the weather is 63-85 degrees. Hope this helps and feel free to ask any more questions.

By the way, where are the pictures of your handy work

 

Thanks all. This was my first time with the HD, so I figured the problem was somewhere in that step. I also did not rinse again btwn each step. Is it OK to just use a quick detail spray? IPA = iso pro alc? What ratio of water/alc should I use?

The councours went on like a dream. Of course, the smell made me want some cookies real bad. The truck looked great when done. Sorry, no pics...

 

Next question - one part of doing this kind of work myself that I really like getting to know the vehicle. It helps appreciate the design and detail of the vehicle. It also helps find some flaws. In this case, I found on the roof 2-3 spots that I'll call a zit in the paint. It is a raised nub that is clearly under the paint. I'm curious if you think I should try to polish these out or take it back to the dealer? It is definitely a manufacturing or shipping issue as the vehicle is only 1 month old. I'll get some pics when I get back home tomorrow.

 

Show pictures; it'll hep. However, if you can feel the nubs and it looks like you can't get it off if you gently scrape with your nail, then it may be an imperfection in the paint. We're starting to see more flaws like that in all the new cars, even the high end ones like ferrari, bentley, lambo, etc.

 

I had a few of those with my 05 Range Rover and of all my cars it is the only one I have had with "zits" like that. One of those nuances of owning a RR. I don't think you can do anything about it without doing some sanding and repaint which I did not do.

 

I tried to take pics, and just can't get them to come out where you can see it. It is a combo of my bad camera, poor lighting, metallic paint and that these things are just the size of pin-heads. They are on the roof, just back from the top of the A-pillar, in the exact same spot on both sides.

I'm going to take it back to the dealer and see what they say. I'll be curious if we can fid it on another one.

Thanks again for the feedback.

 

Don't be surprised if you see the same thing on the others as well.