Detailing Paint, body, detailing and waxing.

Newbie Machine Polishing???

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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 04:11 PM
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Newbie Machine Polishing???

I have a black Z06 that looks great, but has a TON of swirls marks throughout the car. I'm on the fence as to if I should bring it to a professional detailer (I'm lucky enough to be in the same neighborhood as Phil @ Detailers Domain) or try and do it myself.

If I went with the do-it-myself route I was going to pick up one of the packages from the sponsors which included the Flex Polisher and all the appropriate materials. I've been researching a LOT on this site lately and understand the process - clay, polish, wax. Its the polishing that has me worried.

I use my Z as my daily driver for 8 months out of the year. This being the case I figure its going to need a LOT of detailing to stay in great condition. By learning to detail my car the right way it would save me a ton of $$$ and I would be able to do it as often as I liked.

Has anyone else who was a beginner tried the Flex? How were your results? I'm worried I will do something wrong and make the finish look worse than it already does or worse yet that I might damage the paint.

The spring time is coming and I need to make a decision quick. Help!
 
Old Mar 23, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Flex has been great to me!!!!! Knowing Phil, I am sure he would be super helpful for you.

I say go for it.
 
Old Mar 23, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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You certainly shouldn't be afraid of the Flex buffer even if it's your first time correcting the paint yourself, it's very user friendly. Many of our customers jump right to the Flex, primarily to save time and improve results over a Porter Cable 7424. The Flex is a true dual action machine in that it random orbits and utilizes forced rotation. Pair this feature up with a powerful motor and it's how you can easily out perform a Porter Cable 7424, while still remaining paint safe. One of the best features of the Flex for first time users is its ergonomics with the hand positioning and variable speed trigger. I find it very user friendly compared to most buffers out there. While it does have the power to damage the paint, you really would have to try to damage the paint to do so (applying lots of force with a heavy cutting combination).

If you follow these tips, you'll be sure to get the results you are looking for and remain paint safe.

- Apply 15 ~ 20 lbs of pressure
- Move the buffer at 1 - 2" per second
- Work in small areas first until you get the hang of it, like 12" x 12", then move up to 18" x 18" or so.
- Apply about 3 pea sized drops of polish for each working area
- Pass over each spot of your working area 6 - 8 times prior to removing the broken down polish with a microfiber towel by hand
- Use speed settings between 4 - 6 when polishing
- Use at least 500w halogen lighting to expose the imperfections
- Tape off any trim or area that you do not want polish to get on (trim, lights, etc.)

I'd recommend pairing the Flex up with some of the Menzerna polishes for stunning results. Something like our Flex w/ 2-step Menzerna Package is a nice option to tackle most common imperfections.

It sounds like you already did some research and know what you're looking for. Hope some of this information helps in your decision.

Kind regards,

George
 
Old Mar 23, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by gmansbu
I use my Z as my daily driver for 8 months out of the year. This being the case I figure its going to need a LOT of detailing to stay in great condition. By learning to detail my car the right way it would save me a ton of $$$ and I would be able to do it as often as I liked.
It won't necessarily take a LOT of detailing simply because you drive the car 8 months out of the year. It may take some time once or twice a year with some significant work, but what I believe is the real key on a daily driver (or any car for that matter) is having a proper maintenance technique. You don't want to spend all that time polishing out all the swirls on the car and then put them all back on the car because of the way you maintain it throughout the year. This is why I am a big proponent of the two bucket wash method with DirtGuards in the buckets. It's about minimizing the amount of defects that you are putting back into the paint throughout the year. If you wash the car yourself by hand, you can more easily control that stuff. If you take it through the car wash, well, then you're pretty much at the mercy of how well the car wash takes care of the car. I have worked at a few different car washes and I can tell you that the majority of them do not take care of your car as well as you would yourself. Even when you "tip them a little extra". And when it comes to "touchless" car washes, the reason that they can do the cleaning that they do without "touching" your car is that they tend to use very harsh chemicals to get all the dirt off of the paint. This is very hard on your car's paint from a nourishment standpoint.

So I really believe that it's wonderful to learn how to do it yourself and as long as you are committed to learning the upkeep, it shouldn't be a total pain each time you detail. Maintenance in between major details is key!

My 2 cents!

D!
 
Old Mar 23, 2009 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by D!Tailed
So I really believe that it's wonderful to learn how to do it yourself and as long as you are committed to learning the upkeep, it shouldn't be a total pain each time you detail. Maintenance in between major details is key!

My 2 cents!

D!
Well said!

George
 
Old Mar 23, 2009 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Well said!

George
Thanks!

D!
 
Old Mar 24, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. A couple more quick questions...

1. If I only have swirls marks and no scratches do I need to use the 2 different grades of polish or can I just use the least abrasive?
2. How many coats of polish do I need to put on? Can I make one pass around the car for each grade of polish if I'm using the Flex to apply it?
3. What should I intially wash the car with to remove all wax, polish, etc. that has been left on the car from previous detailing?
4. Do I need to tape off all the emblems, plastic, etc?
5. Do I have to wax it immediately after? What do I do if I run out of time for the day?
6. Most importantly, where can I find instructions on how to wash my car properly and how to maintain it the right way, so I don't have to continually keep refinishing?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again guys for all your help!
 
Old Mar 24, 2009 | 11:01 AM
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Answers (from my opinion) in Blue

Originally Posted by gmansbu
Thanks for the feedback. A couple more quick questions...

1. If I only have swirls marks and no scratches do I need to use the 2 different grades of polish or can I just use the least abrasive?

Well, you can always try the least aggressive and hopefully it will take care of the issues you are seeing, but it really depends on the car and how bad the swirls are. You can also vary the aggressiveness with different grades of pads.

2. How many coats of polish do I need to put on? Can I make one pass around the car for each grade of polish if I'm using the Flex to apply it?

Do you mean how many coats of protectant/wax/LSP? Polish is what you will use to make the car shiny. That's what's going to give you the biggest bang for your buck. Get the car surface to the best it can be and the LSP you use will only enhance that. As far as using polishes, I believe that the best way to figure out your process for the car is to pick a 16 inch by 16 inch area to start with. I generally tape that section off and that is the section where you will perfect your process for the entire car. Figure out what you need on that section to get the paint to where you would like it BEFORE you move on to the rest of the car. You may find that it takes 2 passes with the polish A on pad B and then a follow up with a lighter polish B on pad C. My products of choice are the Prima line. I will generally start with some Prima Finish on a LC White pad and see what that does. If I want to go more aggressive, I may step up to either Prima Swirl on an LC White pad or Prima Finish on an LC Orange pad. Once I think I'm getting good results, I will generally follow up with Prima Finish on an LC White pad and if it's a dark car I will do one pass of Prima Amigo on an LC White pad. That's my process and what I use. The key is to pay attention to what you are using and how it is affecting the surface of the car. It's all about practice. But once you have figured out how to get that test section to where you would like it, then you can use that process on the rest of the car. I woudl still only work on sections that are about 16 inches by 16 inches max at a time. It keeps you more focused on doing a good job on each little piece instead of feeling like you are rushing through the rest of the car.

3. What should I intially wash the car with to remove all wax, polish, etc. that has been left on the car from previous detailing?

People use various things to remove previously applied product. Some will wash and then wipe down with a 50/50 alcohol/water mix, some will wash with something like Dawn dishwashing liquid, some will clay the car, and there are several products on the market that will remove the LSP as well.

4. Do I need to tape off all the emblems, plastic, etc?

Yes, you will want to tape off embems and plastic to avoid both buffing them inadvertantly and driving product into them that you will have to clean up later. This can take some time, but will take far less time than having to clean up tthe mess afterwards if you don't. I recommend blue Painter's tape that you can get at Home Depot and other places like that. One thing I will also do it I will tape off any seam that I can't access by opening a door or a panel. So the line between the bumper and the body panel I will sometimes tape off because then I don't have to fight with getting wax out of the cracks.

5. Do I have to wax it immediately after? What do I do if I run out of time for the day?

Well, it's not going to ruin it forever, but the longer the paint is without "wax" on it, the longer it will not be protected from the elements. I know that polishing can take quite some time, but to be honest, adding a layer of LSP(wax) really doesn't take much time if it is an LSP that you can apply via machine (PC) Another note for applying an LSP via machine is that you don't use the same pads as you do to polish. There are softer pads that are made just for applying LSP and they have no bite to them. If you were to try to apply the LSP with a pad that you would also use to polish, you could possibly instill more defects into the paint.

6. Most importantly, where can I find instructions on how to wash my car properly and how to maintain it the right way, so I don't have to continually keep refinishing?

I will add the writeup to the two bucket wash method that I use and recommend to all of my customers on here soon. Hopefully by the end of the week. Well, hopefully sooner!

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again guys for all your help!
Happy to help!

D!
 
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 02:42 AM
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great info. heh want to try to learn how to properly polish too.

D! post up your write on your two bucket wash method. :-)
 
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by blitzo
great info. heh want to try to learn how to properly polish too.

D! post up your write on your two bucket wash method. :-)
Will do. I'm trying to track down the pictures.

Stay tuned!

D!
 
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gmansbu
6. Most importantly, where can I find instructions on how to wash my car properly and how to maintain it the right way, so I don't have to continually keep refinishing?
Here is my suggestion for routine maintenance:

Supplies:

-car wash soap with high lubricity
-high quality sheepskin wash mitts
-foam gun (optional)
-2 buckets with grit guards for paint
-1 bucket and mitt for wheels
-high quality microfiber towels
-210+ mph electric leaf blower
-high quality sealant and/or wax
-quick detailer

Method:

-Wash wheels/tires/wells first to prevent spotting on paint and glass

-Don't use the same mitt or bucket for wheels that you use on your paint. The brake dust, etc. from your wheels will cause scratches and swirls in your paint.

-Using foam gun, cover vehicle in a thick layer of foam (optional)

-Use two buckets for washing paint. One with a soapy mixture, the other with plain water to rinse the mitt between panels.

-Never use circular motions. Always wash, dry, and wax using front to back and top to bottom motions.

-When vehicle is fully cleaned, allow a slow, steady stream of water to flow over each panel...sheeting the majority of the water off

-Use the leaf blower to blow all water from flat surfaces, mirrors, lights, etc.

-Remove any remaining water with a waffle weave drying towel and detail spray

*The less you touch the paint, the less chance of marring*

Keeping a good sealant and/or wax on the paint will assist in cleaning and reduce chances of marring.
 
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