OK, so I'm almost done claying my silver Boxster (saving the black 996TT for when my technique is better :P) and then will move on to the polish portion of this.

After reading tons and tons of different forums and posts and guides, I THINK this is how polishes break down:

Compounds: the BIG guns. For cars with alot of scratches, swirls, problems. Not usable without a PC or Flex type device. Can burn paint if not careful. Hopefully none of my cars ever gets to the point where I need to mess with this stuff.

Polishes: LOTS of different options and strengths, but basically you need to find the least aggressive polish to address the level of scratches/swirls that you have. Can use multiple strengths and multiple products based on need. I think my cars are, generally, in good shape so I think I may either not use this (at least on my silver boxster) or use a very light polish. These can be hand applied (not that great if there's deep problems) or machine applied (better and safe).

Paint Cleaners: Last step that preps the car for wax; many (all?) waxes require this before applying the wax. Should be very safe. Can be hand applied or machine applied. Doesn't really clear up scratches/swirls/spiderwebs.

Do I understand this all correctly? I ordered the P21S paint cleaner and 100% carnauba wax from GP, and am thinking of applying either a very gentle polish or just going straight to the paint cleaner. Also, I don't have a PC/Flex, but I keep putting Flex kits in the shopping cart and then taking them out, so that means I'll get one eventually :P

Also, from what I understand, swirls/spiderwebs/holograms (problems) come from screwing up either the washing/rinsing phase or the polish stage, so the polish stage is fairly critical to get right. Is this correct?

Any corrections/comments/advice would be greatly appreciated. But thanks already for all the help you guys give here!

 

The abrasive ability for a polish depends on the shape of its particles, not necessarily its size. A medium size, spiked abrasive will tumble and dig. However, a large round crystal won't leave a deep scratch.

A large hard abrasive may also be brittle. It will cut once and lose its edge, while a softer small abrasive will hold its edge and keep on cutting. Many smaller abrasives have wedge shaped edges protruding from triangular crystals. These can easily slice through an oxidized layer of metal.

Most to least abrasive -

1. Compounds
Compounds are the most aggressive, most abrasive type of polish and will remove the largest amount of clear coat in the shortest period of time. Compounds are commonly used on severely neglected vehicles and to clean up wet sanding marks. Compounds will almost always leave behind some marring, hazing, or holograms and should always be followed up with a finer polish or multiple polishes.

2. Abrasive Polishes
Most polishes that correct moderate paint imperfections fall into the category of an abrasive polish. They are a step below compounds in terms of aggressiveness and usually do not finish down as well as a finishing polish.

On most paints, it is recommended to follow up an abrasive polish with a finishing polish to remove any micro-marring, hazing or holograms as well as increase the depth and gloss. Some abrasive polishes are capable of finishing on certain paint.

3. Finishing Polishes
A finishing polish will remove very minor imperfections in the paint, such as micro-marring, hazing and holograms. Finishing polishes typically will not remove imperfections deeper than a very light swirl. They are also used to enhance or burnish (jewelling) the paint to achieve an exceptional level of shine (gloss).

4. Chemical Paint Cleaners
Its primary function is to remove oxidation, polishing debris and leftover wax, glaze or sealants in order to provide a completely clean surface for optimal bonding. Sometimes paint cleaners can have micro abrasives or they can be non-abrasive. Most of their cleaning ability is provided by the cleaning solvents, not the polish.

They can remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.

 

Hi Joe. You've pretty much nailed it. Jon also gave us the text book version of the differences in different products as well. The p21s kit you got will be a good starting point, however, for the black turbo you have, the flex kit will be a must. I'll give you a call today and perhaps you can drive down to our studio this week and see first-hand how the flex works and it may push you over the hump to get one. Having the correct tools to meet your expectations is important.

 

Thanks, Moe. Look forward to talking with you (also, I placed another order including the CR spotless machine, but haven't received shipping confirms or tracking info for either order).

Thanks again all for your help. Invaluable!

 

Glad I could help Joe. You should get all your goodies tomorrow and I can't wait to see the results up here on the board.