Hello all, I use SIP with orange pad with the PC, followed by a polish with a white or blue foam pad, use micro fiber towels, but my paint always have has an oily finish to it.. never perfectly clean, I use high end towels but seems to have a haze to the finish... any suggestions?

 

Which polish are you using following SIP? On darker Porsches (black, midnight blue) I like PO85RD with a blue pad after SIP on orange. I don't have a PC, I use a Flex, but SIP/PO85RD combo really works well.

bob

 

Can you post a photo. Sounds like you're not breaking down the polish well enough. What wax are you finishing up with and how are you applying it.

 

using menzerna intensive polish followed by nano polish PO 106.. wax I use is pinnacle wax souveran or auto magic ez wax.. applied by hand... by micro fiber wax applicator but even before I wax it it has like a smeary finish.. like oily looking smears... cant really photo it.. but outside in the sun on certain angles you see it...looks like it needs to wiped ..

 

It could be left over polish or your wax. After polishing go ahead and wash the car again with a mixture of dawn dish shop and your normal car wash to remove the leftover oils.

It looks like your car is black - the paint will get very hot if you live in a warmer climate area (150 degrees +), and that can cause some waxes to sweat or look smeared. I think some people have mentioned this with souveran, although I don't know about the other one. I'd give another waxa a shot, maybe something like collinite 845.

 

It sounds like you're not removing all the polish off the paint. Try wiping down with IPA, we use 90% undiluted. Pour in a spray bottle, spray the paint,and wipe using mf towel. Then apply your wax.

I wouldn't use dish soap to wash the car....not recommended as it'll dry the paint of its oils.

 

Undiluted IPA used on a hot paint surface can cause (a) the paint to swell (b) he IA to flash too fast without doing anything

Wipedown Process - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ml#post1454298

Paint (Solvent / Alcohol) Swelling – http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-swelling.html

 

By the time you've stopped polishing, wiped off the polish, the paint should be cool to the touch. At that point you wipe down with IPA and towel. When polishing, we never let the surface get hot enough to be too hot to touch. Most of the cars we work on, the flex da is used so it never heats up to the point of a rotary. Even with a rotary, I personally am not letting the paint get hot as well. The technique works for me. I know there are others that use heat as part of their technique.

 

thank you all.... what ratio is safe for the IPA wipe down? 50/50?

 

I also have a black 996tt (used to have a concours winning M Coupe). Although I use different products than you I was experiencing something similar to what you are describing.

Humor me and just try putting tap water into a (clean) spray bottle, spray it lightly on your car (try one panel at a time) then wipe it off with a good clean microfiber towel...works like a charm for me and many others I know who frequently show their cars.

 

Im not sure I understand this. How does washing with Dawn after a paint correction (which usually is done once a year or less), remove more oils from the paint than wiping down with straight 90% IPA? Also, what oils are in modern paint?

TOGWT, do you have any information on this?

 

What do you think happens when there's paint oxidation? Why does polishing the paint, or compounding, to remove the "dead" paint reveal the healthy and glossy paint?

Alcohol quickly flashes and removes the oils from the polish or compound. I could be wrong, but it's not strong enough, or sticks around long enough, to penetrate the pores of the paint and dry out the paint.

I just never understood why you needed dish soap. By the time you've clayed the car and polished it, you will have removed most, if not all, the wax or sealant previously applied to the car's surface.

I do see your logic in that long-term use of soap is damaging and not the once or twice a year use. But it just goes back to the logic of why use dish soap in the first place.

Hope that makes sense.

 

We just use it right out of the bottle

 

That would work too, but it won't help to see if you have a truly legitimate polishing of the clearcoat. You need something that can clean off the oils from the polish. Water won't do it.

 

If by "truly legitimate polishing of the clearcoat" you mean an artifact free, swirl free finish in sun or UV lighting....then I guess we'll have to agree to disagree (or just chalk it up to it working on some polishes and not others). Agreed that water isn't going to work on all polishes but it’s simple and has worked on several cars I've seen that employed a variety of finish products. Unlike some of the suggestions here…it isn't going to hurt anything, that I'm sure we'll agree on.