Now before you might all come to my house with 1000 Vikings to burn it down, here is the question.

I "think" I've noticed that when I do use the MrClean system to wash the car, it does cut thru the wax more-so than other washes. Does anyone know if thats more on the true or false side? And I'd take an input on if this product is REALLY bad, as to why....

Now to the reason for its use.......... My main reason for the use is no waterspots (from what I've seen), so it looks better overall for the finish. As anyone knows, waterspots are a PIA and if I can eliminate the need for any overt action on them, all the better. For those that have never tried it, it actually does a great job. (not sure if I think the soap they require suds-up like I'd like it to).


(Secondary question for those in-the-know)

I see that Zymol has (2) washes, the Autowashe (large blue) or the Clear Auto Bathe. Any preference between the two?

THANKS!

 

Hi Bob:

With respect to your first question, the soap used in the Mr. Clean system is extremely harsh; I'm assuming it's highly alkaline. Over time, this will strip the wax. More importantly though, this is stripping the natural oils in your paint. The latter is a cause for concern. As for the original purpose of the Mr. Clean, elimination of water spots, it does a decent job for the first 2-3 times. If you've noticed, it's not 100% spot free and the flow is trickle at best. This is due to the fact that the PUR filter that is in the handle cannot support a high flow and volume. The principle behind deionization is water needs to flow through the resin bed at an optimum rate for it to be filtered. The greater the volume of resin, the greater the in/out flow. With that said, you should consider a REAL deionized filter. The only one to my knowledge that work is a unit called CR Spotless. There have been others, but both myself and forum members have used many and have concluded the CR is the only unit delivering what it's promising.

As for your question about the soaps from zymol, Clear is a soap based on animal fat and auto wash is plant based. Both are excellent soaps, Clear is more gentle on the finish. I use Clear on my higher-end washes, due to cost, and use Auto Wash on first-time details and lower packages. Hope the info helps.

 

Moe.....Excellent reply, and thanks. (My plans were to head locally and pick up some of the better Zymol stuff later today........... there is one place near me that has their line).

I'm thinking their soap has the "sheeting" factor in it (because I've tried better soaps in the unit and it didnt work). I can always switch and just get most of the water to fall-off with a good steady stream w/o any spray nozzle at the end. (Then add a in-line unit). I've also noticed that if you car has no wax on it, the unit/process wont work properly.

Cool deal! Time to switch........(I just need to be carefull on the SpeedFilm, being a white car, well the C4S is)

(Question......the Clear AutoBathe........ recommendation on how much to use?)

Again, thanks!

 

Hi moe...quick question regarding the CR Spotless system...Can one use this system for all aspects of washing the car? Or is it only used to rinse the car off? Thanks!

Got your product! WooHoo!! Many thanks! I am going to give it a go this weekend.

 

I tell clients to go ahead and use it all the way through. You'll typically go through the resin in about 4-6 months on the larger unit.

 

Moe,

Perhaps quantifying how many washes you'll get is more appropriate.

As we discussed, my water (Tustin, CA) seems to be exceedingly poor, measuring around 300 at the input of my CR.

I get about six washes out of the CR before the output side gets beyond 30 (their maximum rated value.)

I know it's a function of water condition, how often you wash the car and how many cars you have, but just thought you might want to clarify. (Since you've got substantial experience in a wide variety of conditions.)

JM

 

With a 300ppm input, you should easily get close to 250-300 gallons of di water.

Here's a table from CR Spotless:

Input TDS Level Expected Yield (# of Gallons)
50 ppm 1600 gallons
100 ppm 800 gallons
200 ppm 400 gallons
400 ppm 200 gallons

I'll talk to you bout your system tomorrow when I see you. Do you have the nozzle on the "FLAT" setting?

 

We ended up fixing the issue. It turns out the flow going into the CR was too much. Once we turned down the water, the unit performed as expected.

 

KaamaCat:

If you have not done so already, I highly recommend the CR Spotless system. I also purchased and used the Mr. Clean product in the past. Although "relatively" expensive, the CR Spotless will make the Mr. Clean unit look like a toy. Kudos to the Mr. Clean product for coming out with the system, but the hard water filtration system just doesn't hold up in washing cars.

[quote=KaamaCat;1338792]Now before you might all come to my house with 1000 Vikings to burn it down, here is the question.

Now to the reason for its use.......... My main reason for the use is no waterspots (from what I've seen), so it looks better overall for the finish. As anyone knows, waterspots are a PIA and if I can eliminate the need for any overt action on them, all the better. For those that have never tried it, it actually does a great job. (not sure if I think the soap they require suds-up like I'd like it to).

[quote]