GT3/GT2 Performance and Track Discussion on the Porsche GT3 and GT2

Single most fun mod for the GT3

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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 04:51 PM
  #31  
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Rear Main Seal
 
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by On Pole
Rear Main Seal
Ah, thank you. Pretty general. I was thinking something much more technical.
 
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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Funny thing is, I bet porsche service centers see a spike in "suspected" RMS leaks in the near future....
 
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 06:21 PM
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Having only owned the car for a week now. I WHOLELY agree. A LWFW would make a world of difference. I didn't realize until I was reading Excellence last night that the RS HAD a different fw. Hope the parts aren't THAT expensive!
 
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NelsonF
1. alignment
2. lwfw
3. gears
4. RS seats

(lightweight exhaust or bypass also recommended)

Do all and the car is magic.

1 & 4 done...

The rest in process. Thanks for the guidance!
 
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 09:17 PM
  #36  
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Seats might be first on my list. The person that ordered the car, got the belts in red, and I would like to add some other tasteful red touches to the interior!
 
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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Do you RS/LTW Flywheel guys find it necessary to blip up-shifts for smoothest operation?
 

Last edited by Trevor Ely; Jan 10, 2008 at 09:27 PM.
Old Jan 11, 2008 | 05:59 AM
  #38  
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Trevor Ely ... blip on upshifts

No
 
Old Jan 11, 2008 | 07:56 AM
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Y do de Faktorie to what day do

I had mentioned a while ago about the factory offering a delete option list on the turbo, AKA-lose 4wd, PCM, and the roof? Some dudes took it seriously, sadly. Same on the 3....In a way, it's their right to capitalize on a great product, "i think"? Having worked for them, they can be "cement heads" on a variety of "no brainers". Although, I just have a shop that serivices them, they are the best car company in the world. Guess, they do know a bit more then me:-). BUT...why NOT make more of these versions??? THAT, brings me back to why I'm happier NOT being confined to their rules. We've already changed out roofs, wings, flywheels and gears. Too bad for them, good for me..."I guess"? BTW-What's with this RMS insertion? 3's, 2's & Turbos do NOT have that issue because they are not the same engine as the 997 or 6. NEXT-figure out how to flare the 3 into a RS quarter, without changing it!-NYC is nasty today
 
Old Jan 11, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by aracerx
... BTW-What's with this RMS insertion? 3's, 2's & Turbos do NOT have that issue because they are not the same engine as the 997 or 6. ...
You'll find thats not the case if you do a search here and on Rennlist.
 
Old Jan 11, 2008 | 09:45 AM
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I have long thought about the merits of adding a LWFW to my 997TT. Since it works really well in a GT3/RS, do you guys think it'd be a worthwhile addition to the TT. There's no doubt that it'll change the driving characteristics to an already very capable machine. One thing I'm concerned about is the fact that the clutch effort is much lighter in the TT compared to the GT3/RS so that could potentially make for some very tricky situations.
 
Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by steve@digitalho
If you think the engine rev's faster in the RS just get the Revo programmable ECU upgrade and adjust the throttle speed setting. It is set very slow from the factory. When we doubled the setting the engine blip's when you snap the throttle now. It is so much faster reving and I can shift much faster. I always felt the throttle speed was slow on the car. When we got into the ECU we found it was set at 2 on a scale of 10...
Hmm..interesting. Can this be done using the Porsche's hand held unit (the one they use to program other options like disabling the seat air bag sensor, etc...)?
 
Old Jan 12, 2008 | 11:10 AM
  #43  
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RMS on air cooled block design

As we all should know...the long block design of 3's, 2's, etc date back almost forever in its elemental engineering design. This unfortunate phenomenon of RMS failure or leaks dates to the advent of the basic 996/Boxster engine family. There have been numerous posts re. why...I've always been "reletively" pleased at the performance/durablity of the rear seal design on the long blocks of all cups, Gt3's/2's as well as turbo's. Web boards can be somewhat criss-crossed on this subject. We do a bunch of engines and rarely does THAT issue crop up. MHO-thanks Mark
Same type of mix-up on Roll Cage installations...."people" comment that some 3's do not have the threaded insert in rear seat area for bolt up purpose. I find that just hard to understand. Is it possible to cross thread it, then say that they aren't there to begin with? Hmm. bet that's happened more than once.. Have to be VERY CAREFUL IN FITMENT OF ASSY TO ALIGN THE BOLT TO THE THREAD. The hardware is also something to be aware of as the bolt material is not a standard hardened bolt. I made a tool to align the inserts of perfect fitment of those nasty bolts.
 
Old Jan 12, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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[quote=aracerx;The hardware is also something to be aware of as the bolt material is not a standard hardened bolt. I made a tool to align the inserts of perfect fitment of those nasty bolts.[/quote]

Can you post a pic of it. i am going to install my roll bar shortly, need all the help I can.
 
Old Jan 12, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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roll cage

firstly, factory bar is more for installation of belts vs. heavy duty roll over protection. after so many years in this, the stock chassis is still pretty resilient anyway. MAIN issue is alignment of two front (seat belt points) threads. This means to align all 4 points as close as possible before attempting threading the bolts in. Use small amount of anti seize, rethread holes and bolts with 7/16-20 tap and die to make sure you can thread in without intervention. lastly, be careful and make sure you don't strip threads. adios-mark
 


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