Practically, setup the GMG upper dog bones to the same length as the stock upper rear arms and do not adjust them ever again. The four arms should have the same length, use the long bolts attaching these arms to the body as guide. Place two long bolts standing up on a flat surface, then drop the stock upper arm through those two bolts, then the adjustable GMG arm, then another stock arm. You want the GMG adjustable arm to move as free as the two stock ones, you achieve this by setting the GMG arm to the correct length.

I have these GMG arms, and they're high quality pieces. The main advantage on them is the elimination of 8 rubber bushings that affect camber and toe.

The rear upright rotates just a bit, and creates a minor change on camber. That's why you set the toe first, then set the camber when doing an alignment.

This latest alignment you have should be a lot better.


What kind of stands are you using to get the car levered?

 

Perfect I understand I will use OEM dog bones as length reference with the long bolt and make sure they move free in the ball joints.
I will use Tarret camber plates in my next alignment session.

I just unbolted a little bit the bog dog bone bolts and they move free.

I use Longacre leveling stands and scales,I made 1 meter stand extensions so you don't have to work on the floor I also use 2 30x30 metal plates with a little bit of grease in the middle on top of the scales to let the suspension move a little bit every time I raise ans lower the car with the ramp while corner scaling the car,this also helps to get a closer real ride height during this process.

 

Anyone knows a way or trick to square the car,I need a easy and precise way to get left and right longitudinal symmetry to set my strings.
Something like this can help:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

 

Today I had a trk day and the results where incredible 1.4sec faster everything was the same just changed the alignment.
Thanks for all the info..!!

 

How did the car feel, esp. at the back?

The Michelin Blues you're running (they don't sell the yellows any more) really like a lot of camber, a LOT.

In the series I run with my 996 Cup (SCCA GT2, PCA GTC3, Yokohama Cup) we're rules-limited on shim size and can't get as much negative camber as the Michelins would like. I don't have personal experience with 997's, but I do have a lot of experience with those tires and in making them reasonably quick (I have a # of track records).

Other slicks (I've run the Yoks and the new Hoosiers, I don't know of any others between those three in the sizes you need) don't need as much camber, but don't have quite as much ultimate grip.

Running that much camber (I assume you're not rules-limited) is killer in the corners, but you might give up a bit of braking and straight-line stability.

Also be very careful about tire temps and pressures, esp. when cold - I'll usually gain (depending on track and temps) 8 to 12 psi from cold to full hot, and the Blues are both very squirrely when cold (both tire temps and sidewall pressures are an issue), and you have to be extremely careful about curbs etc. as you can literally pull the tire off the rim, or bang the rim into curbs, until temps (and thus pressures) are up there.

Before suggesting specific settings, I'd ask a number of q's:

1) What are your goals? Ultimate speed (1 killer qualifying lap), consistent speed (and over what time distance), compromise between speed and drivability, drivability paramound with speed second, etc.?

2) What is your specific driving style, and how do you like the car to handle?

Personally I have a fairly aggressive turnin, and like a bit of oversteer, don't mind 'catching' the car a bit, I'm not freaked out by the back end moving around, as long as it's not too much. I know for sure that this is not how everyone else prefers the car set up, most like the back end locked down much more, I find it gives up too much time, and I really really hate understeer. Again back to #1, this depends on your goals, and what compromises/tradeoffs you're willing to make to get those goals.

I would certainly not recommend my specific setups (which of course vary by track) to someone doing track days, unless they're very comfortable with a similar driving style. To someone else, it could very well be a recipe for going backwards at speed into somewhere you really don't want to go, if you haven't trained yourself to instinctively and subconciously handle oversteer at the limit in a rear-engined car (e.g. drop-throttle is fatal, often applying more power is the solution in order to get weight transfer and additional rear traction, etc.)

 

In this car I have Yellow Michelin,s the next ones will be Blue ( I have them waiting ) this car is used for track days only nothing pro just fun and this string setup worked very good took a lot of time but the results are worth.

The back was very solid the car is neutral ,times went down 3 times in my AEM lap timer during the day.

My track has a very very long strait so 2mm rear 0 toe front worked very nice to get a good hi speed,since I have more camber braking was reduced a little bit.

I take care of tire pressures with this slicks like you mentioned pressure can go up really bad specially when starting from cold so checking tire pressure 2 times during a day session is enough,I try to use front 24 rear 26.