RS Track alignment
Pure Track Car (slicks, hoosiers)
F: -3.5, toe-out (total .25)
R: -3, toe-in (total .5)
50 Track / 50 Street (mpsc, hoosiers, r888, etc) (very good blend)
F: -2.6, toe-out (total .125)
R: -2.3, toe-in (total .5)
10 Track / 90 Street (car will still be lots of fun but rear tires will last longer
F: -2.3, zero toe
R: -1.9, toe-in (total .4)
Last edited by 997gt3north; Nov 28, 2008 at 08:14 AM.
Obviously, this is very track dependant, but:
Pure Track Car (slicks, hoosiers)
F: -3.5, toe-out (total .25)
R: -3, toe-in (total .5)
50 Track / 50 Street (mpsc, hoosiers, r888, etc) (very good blend)
F: -2.6, toe-out (total .125)
R: -2.3, toe-in (total .5)
10 Track / 90 Street (car will still be lots of fun but rear tires will last longer
F: -2.3, zero toe
R: -1.9, toe-in (total .4)
Pure Track Car (slicks, hoosiers)
F: -3.5, toe-out (total .25)
R: -3, toe-in (total .5)
50 Track / 50 Street (mpsc, hoosiers, r888, etc) (very good blend)
F: -2.6, toe-out (total .125)
R: -2.3, toe-in (total .5)
10 Track / 90 Street (car will still be lots of fun but rear tires will last longer
F: -2.3, zero toe
R: -1.9, toe-in (total .4)
Ok this is a pure track car it has Moton,Michelin 18" slicks:
More questions
1-I will use Smart Strings to adjust the Toe and im not sure how to calculate the TOE.
2-What Camber do you recommend?
I'm not a string guy, i bring my car to a shop so I can't help there.
Basically, to get a gt3 to really want to turn-in, a little bit of toe-out is what you want - so, 1/4inch "total" toe-out or 1/8th of an inch per side is a common toe-out spec for these cars. Again, this is very track dependant, some-guys like more, some zero toe, some the tiniest tiniest bit of toe-in, but in my experience the car really responds nicely to some toe-out.
You also have mentioned the specs of the tires (widths front and rear) and you haven't mentioned sways or the spring rates front and rear of the damping rates (clicks) - there are some many factors that are required to dial in a car.
Also, what is you experience and what is your style (do you like slight understeer on exit or slight oversteer?)
A car that is set up to the "track specs" I mentioned above with properly sized slicks (similar to OE widths both front and rear), leaving the sways the way they came from the factory (one from soft front, full rear stiff) and reasonable moton settings and spring rates is going to be an incredible car with real slicks - if anything, to buy yourself some safety, you may want to stiffen the front sway to the middle of the five holes and possibly also soften the rear bar to the middle hole.
I am going to assume you know how to set up the strings and square the car. When using strings its easiest to use metric measurements. The settings listed above are good.(they are American) they pretty much translate into the settings we usually go with: front toe out .5mm per side 1mm total rear toe in 2.0 or 2.5 in per side 5mm total.
Have you ever done a string alignment?? You get your toe setting by calculating the difference in measurements from the leading edge to the following edge of the wheel.
Smart racing might have a tutorial on their site, its not that hard, but would be hard to properly explain without some visuals.
Have you ever done a string alignment?? You get your toe setting by calculating the difference in measurements from the leading edge to the following edge of the wheel.
Smart racing might have a tutorial on their site, its not that hard, but would be hard to properly explain without some visuals.
Last edited by supremedk; Nov 28, 2008 at 07:49 PM.
Thanks very good info.
So yes I will use metric measurements,please correct me if I am wrong this is what I want to use.
FRONT
Camber 3
Toe out .5mm
REAR
Camber 2.5
Toe in (sorry not clear yet) I need to know the diff in mm I need in the rear wheels
Please clarify the rear Toe in and give me your opinion of the camber too.
thanks
So yes I will use metric measurements,please correct me if I am wrong this is what I want to use.
FRONT
Camber 3
Toe out .5mm
REAR
Camber 2.5
Toe in (sorry not clear yet) I need to know the diff in mm I need in the rear wheels
Please clarify the rear Toe in and give me your opinion of the camber too.
thanks
Thanks very good info.
So yes I will use metric measurements,please correct me if I am wrong this is what I want to use.
FRONT
Camber 3
Toe out .5mm
REAR
Camber 2.5
Toe in (sorry not clear yet) I need to know the diff in mm I need in the rear wheels
Please clarify the rear Toe in and give me your opinion of the camber too.
thanks
So yes I will use metric measurements,please correct me if I am wrong this is what I want to use.
FRONT
Camber 3
Toe out .5mm
REAR
Camber 2.5
Toe in (sorry not clear yet) I need to know the diff in mm I need in the rear wheels
Please clarify the rear Toe in and give me your opinion of the camber too.
thanks
- what he was saying was 2-2.5mm toe-in per side for a total of 4-5mm total toe-in for the rear
- a -3f, -2.5r with a small bit of toe-out in the front is a perfectly fine setup
- you are going to need some shims for the front to get to that spec (shims alone can get you there but your caster will likely make for a front wheel that may rub at close to full lock)
- a better solution at that camber level is to rotate the struts and use fewer shims (will help tires fit better / get caster in a good range)
- one suggestion i would offer is to ask yourself if you still intend to street drive the car, if this is the case, i think my 50/50 recommendation is better as with slicks the car will be incredible and yet the slightly less rear camber will really save your rear tires on the inner edge when street driving
- given the setup range you are settling on and the fact that your are going to run slicks, one word of caution i would offer is that a gt3 with that setup with slicks is going to be incredibly responsive to turn-in and the grip level is going to be very high in the front compared to "stock" so just remember that the rear of the car is connected to the front so when you first start and until you can get the car (sways, damping) fine tuned for your style and track be careful about the rear of the car coming around
- what spring rates did you go with on the motons?
- have you changed the sway settings?
- so you know the slick specs / sizes?
- have fun
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Thanks for the info:
-I think the spring rates are F 450 R 900
-Sways GMG front middle rear mid
-Slicks Michelin Yellow Porsche cup spec 18"
I have GMG WC susp kit and works very nice.
-I think the spring rates are F 450 R 900
-Sways GMG front middle rear mid
-Slicks Michelin Yellow Porsche cup spec 18"
I have GMG WC susp kit and works very nice.
WOW!! thats a big spring split!! Is this the first time on a track/slicks with this set up?? Were these spring rates put on the car with track use in mind??
Soft front with a fairly firm rear, be ready for a tail happy ride!!
Soft front with a fairly firm rear, be ready for a tail happy ride!!
Ok based in your suggestions my set up will be:
F-3.2 Camber
R-2.8 Camber
5 mm Toe Out Front each side
20 mm wheel difference Toe in Rear each side
What do you think maybe i have to ho back to school with this Decimal/Imperial units,please correct me if I'm wrong.
F-3.2 Camber
R-2.8 Camber
5 mm Toe Out Front each side
20 mm wheel difference Toe in Rear each side
What do you think maybe i have to ho back to school with this Decimal/Imperial units,please correct me if I'm wrong.
front toe out .5 mm per side. notice the decimal in front of the number half of 1 mm per side
rear toe in 2.5 mm per side
here is a link to the smart string manual.
[media]http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfdocs/011410_smartstrings_manual.pdf[/media]
rear toe in 2.5 mm per side
here is a link to the smart string manual.
[media]http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfdocs/011410_smartstrings_manual.pdf[/media]
.5mm is almost nothing! I will have to be careful
The rear 2.5 difference in the wheel has to be exactly in the middle of the wheel correct?
Yep .5 is not much at all, but its all you need. 5mm out and the car would be undriveable!!! well, really bad at least, it would still drive.
I strongly suggest reading the manual i linked. If you have never done a string alignment before find someone who has and have them help you through it. If you get it wrong your car will be a messy handful to drive!!!!!
if you ended up with 5mm out in the front and 20mm in on the rear, like you posted earlier........ words can not describe!!!!!
I strongly suggest reading the manual i linked. If you have never done a string alignment before find someone who has and have them help you through it. If you get it wrong your car will be a messy handful to drive!!!!!
if you ended up with 5mm out in the front and 20mm in on the rear, like you posted earlier........ words can not describe!!!!!
Just take your time , read that manual,i would suggest printing it out and bringing it out to the car with you. figure out how you feel comfortable measuring( i always measure the trailing end of the wheel first) and do it the same every time. The Smart Strings are a cool tool, and pretty easy to set up on any car. The Porsche factory alignment tools are really cool though!!!




