GT3/GT2 Performance and Track Discussion on the Porsche GT3 and GT2

PCCB to GT3 Cup steel rotors - bitter sweet conversion

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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by AlFromCalabasas
As the first reply here, I would like to say- THANK YOU for your time and hard work to make one of the nicest / most detailed threads I have ever seen on any car forum in my entire life.

Thanks,
Alex
+1.

Outstanding write up. Thanks for the time and effort. Can't wait to hear your track impressions.

Scott
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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Thanks for the input guys I alway learn a-lot form your input. Robb, I already purchase the Cup rotors when we spoke a while back that's why I went this route. It was not easy and Hope the other aftermarket steel rotors fit better than Cup rotors. I thought you guys have 2 sets of GyroDisc?

I don't know if slot rotors are better than cross dilled but I have heard such claim.

Now the caliper bolts. I was told by Porsche mechanic that they don't replace the bolts but factory calls for it. Why don't they recommend replacing the wheel bolts while at it? I never seen such a recommendation until I start working on Porsche. It is always a good idea to get new bolts if possible I guess
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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great write up mike. looks like you're all set for infineon tomorrow

why aren't you using castrol SRF brake fluid? motul require constant bleeding or flush
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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fantastic post mike. now you need to get these expensive plastics for completeness.
http://www.e-partssales.com/miva/mer...=997gt32brakes




for brake fluid changes, i usually just pour the new fluid into the power bleeder container then pressurize. no need to suck old fluid out from reservoir with a baster.
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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Mike,
First the write up on the LSD diagnosis and replacement. And now you have out done yourself with this brake conversion. Excellent job and thanks for sharing.
Aren't you a physician during the day (OB-GYN)? And now P-Tech during the night?
Cheers.
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Edwin814
great write up mike. looks like you're all set for infineon tomorrow

why aren't you using castrol SRF brake fluid? motul require constant bleeding or flush
Thanks Edwin

I don't know much as far as brake fluid goes. Is Castrol SRF better? Appreciate if you can shed some light onthe subject

Originally Posted by speedoflight
fantastic post mike. now you need to get these expensive plastics for completeness.
http://www.e-partssales.com/miva/mer...=997gt32brakes

for brake fluid changes, i usually just pour the new fluid into the power bleeder container then pressurize. no need to suck old fluid out from reservoir with a baster.
Hey Joe, do you have this air duct in your car? It's for rear brakes which does not see much action as far as braking goes - may not be a necessary part unless you start club racing.

I like the turkey baster technique. It helps me practice for Thanksgiving
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by D-UberCars
Mike,
First the write up on the LSD diagnosis and replacement. And now you have out done yourself with this brake conversion. Excellent job and thanks for sharing.
Aren't you a physician during the day (OB-GYN)? And now P-Tech during the night?
Cheers.
lol, I don't know if I can out done myself anymore then LSD and brake swap - I may try the 3.9L conversion if I fry my noggin with the H1N1 flu

Oh my, you said the dreaded word - OB/GYN. During medical training, OB/Gyn rotation are the one I dread the most. I just don't do well with screaming mom/kids and estrogen flying all over the place ... and I end up marrying an OB/GYN

I chose family practice so I can have life outside of medicine. I was very good with surgery but I don't want to live in the hospital for the next 30 years. Cars has always been my passion growing up other than blowing up model air planes lol. Modding my ride is a dream come true
 

Last edited by mikymu; Nov 20, 2009 at 06:30 PM.
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Great DIY, thumbs on the effort and johnny on the spot troubleshooting!

I replace the bolts when putting new rotors on my brembo 2pc rotors, per recommendation also.

Personally I think the slotted rotors just hold up better, I've seen much worse cracking on my stock drilled rotors than on my brembos (gone through one set), but even the slotted ones will start to form cracks when they are near end of life.

Also, just as a seat of the pants impression, it seemed that the slotted rotors had more grip when they were near end of life. My drilled ones, after a certain point were so shot that braking became very sketchy.
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by D-UberCars
Mike,
First the write up on the LSD diagnosis and replacement. And now you have out done yourself with this brake conversion. Excellent job and thanks for sharing.
Aren't you a physician during the day (OB-GYN)? And now P-Tech during the night?
Cheers.
i called 'em once for unusual mosquitto bites.
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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Bow down to mikymu.... Great thread. Not an easy (and expensive) conversion to do eh? You sure you don't want to play with those big wrenches?
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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Every post you make leaves me stunned, and motivates me to work on my project.

I know/met a lot of Porsche guys (I am a big VW guy) and I don't know of a single one that has a modern Porsche and works on it themselves. Your work is impressive, and detailed.

What are you going to do with the PCCB's?
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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there was a thread on another forum about guys wanting to upgrade their C6 Z06 brakes with the new composite brakes from the ZR1.

a brake manufacturer chimed in and said that the Z06 could not accept the composite brakes from the ZR1 because they are designed to operate at different brake lines pressures and parameters than steel brakes.

dont know if it applies in the reverse but it was stated that the early composite brake problems were caused by manufacturers using the steel brake parameters/designs to operate composite brakes.

ferrari is said to gone exclusively to composite to avoid having 2 types of braking systems.

any thoughts?
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 09:26 PM
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great write up, really make me feel like i need to get off my *** become a bit more handy with my car

kudos!!!!!

w
 
Old Nov 20, 2009 | 09:49 PM
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unlike the motul, castrol srf is less hydroscopic so the pedal won't get too spongy too soon and less brake fade. even though srf cost more up front, motul will soon add up with frequent bleeding and flushing.

alot of rennlist guys swear by srf
 
Old Nov 21, 2009 | 07:49 AM
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I agree with Edwin814. SRF costs more to buy, but it doesn't need bleeding and will last the season, at least on the east coast. I makes me laugh when I see guys using ATE blue because they think they are saving money, but then you watch them constantly bleeding their brakes and running quart after quart through their systems. By the end of the season the cheap stuff has cost them more than the SRF, plus all the hassle of constant bleeding.
 


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