I had my first track. Handling was a little sketchy at times. An alignment was recommended as the first thing to do.

It was also recommended that I replace the rear toe control arms and locking plates.

Is this pretty much the consensus on here to do that?

 

Very much so with the Gt3.. You dont have to go nuts with suspension bits on the Gt3 if your just having fun with a DE type car setup.. Thats my personal opinion..

 

I'm just trying to keep costs down. I went a little crazy modding my last car and bought the GT3 so as to not go down that road again

Although it seems just as easy to spend money on this car as any other...

I'm just a DE guy so I can pull it off without upgrading anything then that's the direction I'm going to go in. A friend did say that the upgraded components will keep an alignment much better than the OEM bits.

 

That is correct and i am sure many other Shops that are more Road race oriented will chime in.. The solid bushings will keep the alignment within spec much better.. You can be more frugal lets say with the GT3 then say a Turbo 997 which i found out the hard way needed like 4k+ in parts to get right..

Mike

 

very true but only if you include the locking plates as the eccentrics will move even with adjustable toe arms..you might check the ride height, corner balance and dial in a little more neg camber up front and in the rear while you are at it. If you don't have the Kussumaul settings already

Front axle:
Camber: -2.5º
Max camber difference, left/right: 5'

Toe total: +5'
Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°20' +/- 30'

Caster: 8° +/- 30'
Max caster difference, left/right: 30'

Front height: 115mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard

Rear axle:
Toe total: 35’ +/- 2'
Max toe difference, left/right: 5'

Camber: -2.3° +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'

Rear height: 128mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard

sorry Dog...these settings are for a 996 GT3...maybe mooty can give you some 997 GT3 alignment specs...

 

there are plenty you can do, but honestly on a DE car, you can't tell much difference.

that said, i would get rear toe links (not the upper control arm aka dog bones). just the toe links and locking plates. you dont need the bump adjustable type, you will never lower your car that much to need bump correction. if you do need bump correction, your ride ht is most likely too low for dual purpose car.

if u insist on dialing in suspension like a race car, i got about $8000 worth of suspension stuff under the car EXCLUDING my shocks.

so, best bang for the buck, get toe links, use that to adj toe, lock it up with locking plates (replace the eccentrics) the get a good alignment/corner bal.

 

Any suggestions for 997GT3 alignment specs?

 

My GT3.1 (last November purchase) was not drivable at stock specs for track duty. After a good corner balance and close to Kussumaul alignment the car is transformed. Its is now a joy to drive and I feel very confident pushing it hard. What also helped was to set the rear wing 1 pin more agressive. This greatly helped stability during breaking for turn 1 at Roebling (around 150mph). Give the car what it wants and it will deliver.

 

Dog, I check on Rlist and according to the guys over there you have track/steet alignment suggestions in the owners manual in the specs at the back

 

Where did you find the Kussumaul aslignment and is it for the 996 or 997 GT3, or does it even matter?

I didn't think the .1 GT3's wing was adjustable.

 

I am also a owner of .1 GT3 (in yellow )
rear wing is adjustable.

 

Dog, there are four (4) things you can do that will make your GT3 an absolute dream to drive on the track, without losing any fun on the street. First, you want to have your alignment settings changed to the settings listed in your owners manual for the track. Nothing fancy, just do what the factory suggests. Second, you want to make sure your rear sway bar is set to the middle hole. This change will make the car far less tail-happy and you won't have to worry about the rear end coming around on you. Third, follow Mooty's suggestion and get some rear toe links and locking plates installed. The car will be much more stable in the higher speed corners. Fourth, install some of the WEVO motor mounts. They are easy to do, not expensive, and actually make a great difference in positive feel.

If you do these things, you won't be out a lot of money, but you will have a lot more fun. I have made these suggestions to other GT3 drivers at the track, and each one has been overjoyed with the results. (Note: these suggestions are for a GT3, not an RS. For an RS, the rear sway bar setting may be different)

Enjoy!

 

I've struggled with getting my 997.2 GT3 dialled in. Appreciate any setup is driver specific and tied to driving style as well as what your trying to achieve (full race, DE etc). Havent been able to find a good DE setup beyond just sticking with stock. Understeer is the main thing I've struggled with, slow and medium speed corners in particular. Ive got the Porsche stock GT3 settings which the dealer reset for me (interesting just how far our the settings were when it arrived from the factory).

I thought that the Kussumaul alignment wasnt applicable for the .2 GT3.

Anyone have a good generic DE setup for the .2 GT3? (I know...everyone asks this question)

 

set up is very personal
if you find yours push, try -2.5 front and -2 rear
full soft front
full stiff rear
drive carefully and tune from there.

some say .2 needs little camber, i dont agree. but that's just my preference.

some ppl like a lot of rear toe. i dont.

 

This is very close to my allignment. Works fine, daily driver and about 30 track days a year.