In order to combat 2nd to 3rd gear shift sloppiness I installed WEVO semi-solid engine mounts in my RS to help minimize side to side swaying of engine+tranny mass (which accounts to 25% of the sprung weight of the car) and beefier Cup car shift cable. Despite of all these efforts I still encounter occasional difficulties getting into 3rd gear under high G load on the track. This is mostly due to operator error ... I grip the shift **** too hard which prevent shift linkage from getting into proper alignment for the 2nd to 3rd gear change.

This makes me wonder what will a solid engine mount feel like? Will it shake my teeth loose from excessive noise vibration harshness from marrying together the mass of the drivetrain and the sprung mass of the car? Cup cars have solid engine mounts ... and my mini-Cup car should have one too

So, curiosity got the best of me and here is what I found out with the Rennline solid engine mount.

Rennline solid red engine mount next to the WEVO semi-solid unit



Rennline supplied a self locking nut and a small washer which I felt is not large enough to cover the square opening at the base of the engine mount compare to the wide base factory nut





I got a larger washer and also a wide base nut from Lowes shown on the top of the picture. The washer matches the larger diameter of the factory nut





Another difference I encounter with the Rennline engine mount is that it does not contain a square base to fit into the square opening of the engine mount bracket. Here is the Rennline supplied round bolt in the square opening of the engine mount bracket and next to the factory engine mount





The diameter of the factory square base is 15.9 mm compare with 11.8 mm of the Rennline supplied bolt





Fitting an wider outer sleeve can help solve the size difference in the square opening of the engine mount bracket ... but I come to find out after you situate the Rennline engine mount it sits off line to the center opening - so it's best to not use the wider outer sleeve





OK, back to fitting of the Rennline engine mount. Some work is needed to shave the edge that come in contact with the center bolt that secure the chassis mount. The left side barely fit without modification but I have to grind away the lip of the right side Rennline engine mount to fit







Another difference I noticed between factory and Rennline engine mount is that Rennline engine mount is taller which means it will sit the drivetrain slightly lower by 1/4" toward the ground



I applied some thread lock on the nut to help secure the bolt and torque the bolt to 60 ft/lbs and two smaller upper bolts to 18 ft/lbs







What it looks like all installed



So, what does it feel like once I turn on the engine? Well, good news is that I have not call my dentist to repair fillings that fell out from all the shaking. On the contrary, the engine was baby butt smooth!? I was expecting to see alot of tremor from the rear view mirror and there was none. The engine is smooth, quiet and it actually transmit less noise to the cabin. My Cup cable used to transmit a loud mechanical noise to the cabin when it's not in gear and that noise is now gone? Driving wise it is as smooth as having the WEVO engine mount and sudden side to side movement of the car is a surgical operation. Wow, what a surprise! Less vibration and noise from a solid engine mount. I will have more feedback once I try it out on the track ...

 

Great write up, I am looking forward to your post track write up.

 

Thank you very much for yet another well-documented DIY!!

"Another difference I noticed between factory and Rennline engine mount is that Rennline engine mount is taller which means it will sit the drivetrain slightly lower by 1/4" toward the ground"

Curious as to how above may contribute to less vibration and noise? Also, what are your impressions on the road so far?

I was surprised that the Rennline part did not fit without slight modification. Looking forward to your on-track observations! Thanks again.

 

I put Wevo semi-solid mounts on my car and am still having some problems shifting... I thought I was the only one, I'm relieved to hear that you were having same issues on your car as well (not that I want you to have any problems with the car Mike ). Just feels good not to be the only one.

I was thinking about switching the shifter cable, they get bound up and make it harder to change gears and then they break and you're stuck in one gear and have to get the car towed to the dealership.

 

Sure thing. Update track review in 1-2 weeks

Yeah, I was hoping there will be no modification needed but as you can see alot of modification is needed to make it fit right. lowering the drive train slightly by 1/4" maybe a good thing since you will lower the center of gravity. SO far no sift problem driving on the street. Will give more feedback once I try it on the track


Like I have mention above, my 2nd to 3rd gear shif difficulty is mostly due to operator error ... I grip the shift **** too hard which prevent shift linkage from getting into proper alignment for the 2nd to 3rd gear change. Easing up on the grip helps and more on that later ...

I hope this Rennline engine mount with better shifting technique will finally solve the 2nd to 3rd gear shift problem

 

Sin, one thing to note that the GT3's have a totally different transmission then the 997 Carrera, the shifting on the Carrera are much nicer and easier then the GT3 IMO. Not suggesting that you aren't shifting properly, perhaps you have an issue with your transmission.

 

No! That is exactly what you're saying!!! LOL!

I had the shifter cable broken once, when replaced it was so smooth and soft. Now the cable is starting to get kind of bad, loosing that smoothness. I don't think it's the transmission. Sometimes it is smooth but during hard acceleration, deceleration, etc it is notchy and stiff, just hard to get it in gear. Sometimes I have a lot of problem putting it in first even while standing in a red light

I have the OEM short shifter, that may have an effect as well.

 

I have the OEM shifter too...smooth equals fast

 

True, it maybe time to change the cable again...

 

Go all out and get the Cup cable

 

Drive a 915 tranny for a week your tranny will feel buttery smooth : ). Mike

 

Good idea! How much do they approximately cost? you said go all out, I don't want to get broke

Lol! Good point!

 

Here is the parts cost:

#10 – 996.424.040.75 $486
#6 – 996.424.145.9A $17.40
#7 – 900.169.015.02 $15.22

labor is a different story ... expect 3-4 hours from a competenet shop. Here is the link to the full write up:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...cable-fix.html

 

Your write ups are always excellent mikymu! Thanks for the information.

 

Thanks for all the info Mike! I think I'll keep the cash in my wallet for now, if it really becomes a big issue then I will replace it with something better