I would like to ask for some advise regarding mildly setting up a 996 GT3 mkII for a track session.

1) What would be the best tires (only dry conditions)?
I had a set of Bridgestone RE55 semi-slicks on my previous car (Z4 M Coupe) and they really worked well. Currently have 18" Michelin Pilot Sport's on the GT3 and want to save them for road use.

2) Brake Pads?

3) Suspension adjustments? Not sure to what level suspension can be adjusted, if any, on the 996 GT3 mkII stock suspension?

4) Anything else one could suggest to try get the most of the car at a track session?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

1) Try Michelin Cup or Pirelli Corsa R (not the system) my choice after these would be Toyo Proxies R888

2) Get Performance Friction discs + pads. Stock would be shot after a day or two of hard driving on the track

3) You can only adjust the ride height on the stock suspension afaik

4) Geo/alignment! Very important, and can make the car feel much much better and get you around the track faster and safer!

 

tires will depend of rims you have and availability. if you go with 18" 8.5"/11" - use 245/305 tires and look up availability in nitto NT01, kumho v710, toyo r888, toyo RA1. when you will outgrow those tires go with hoosiers R6.

pads - pagid yellow rs29 in you fittment

do an aligment 0 toe front 0.10 toe rear, put in shims to set camber for -2.5deg front -2 deg rear. experiment with sway bars to find a neutral with hint of oversteer position.

most important - ignor all technicalities and just drive what you have on the track and listen to instructors. if anything will be severely off in your setup instructor will notice and advice you on what to do.

 

1) Get a decent set of R-comps for your track wheels. R888s, NT-01s or R1s are great compromise tires. If you want more stick, get some MPSC or R6s. If you want to run full slicks, you need to get better parts (monoball uppers, toe links, tie rods, etc).

2) PFC 97 or Pagid Yellow are good endurance pads. They work fine on the street. Best solution is to swap pads back to stock after each event. You also need to upgrade fluid if you are going to use aggressive pads. Also, be sure you match tires, pads and fluid. That is, all aggressive or all stock, but don't mismatch. It will be very difficult to drive. PFC 01/06 have more bite. Same with Pagid Black. Personally, I think PFC work better and last longer. YMMV.

3) You can adjust ride height and sway bars. No compression or rebound adjustment on these.

4a) Get a proper alignment. Around -3 camber in the front and -2.5 in the rear for R6s. No front toe, or just a tad toe-out. Toe-in in the rear. Some like sways stiffer in front than rear. Personally, I like a little looser car.

4b) Get some shims if you have the stock wing. Many run 8º. Others upgrade the wing.

4c) Get Euro GT3 seats and harnesses. Duh.

4d) Get instruction. 996 GT3s are difficult to drive at the limit. They can be ultimately rewarding when driven fast, but will bite you like a black widow if you run out of skill.

-td

 

Thanks for the input and help! Very useful.

Excuse my ignorance, but how easy is it to change camber etc. as i would ideally like to return everything to stock after the track day is done?

Thanks for the options on tires. Was just wondering, which tires are better for dry handling on a track: Pilot Sport Cup or P Zero Corsa's?

 

You want to tell me after a day at the track the brakes are toasted?

 

Umm, lets just say its not easy. You would have to get your car aligned every time before and after the track which would definitely put a hurting on your wallet. You can drive on the street with that much camber.

 

You can definitely kill a set of stock pads in 1 weekend AND boil your fluid - especially if you use R-comps. They are not up to the task. However, you won't kill the rotors that fast. They'll get you a few weekends before the cracks are too long to use.

-td

 

If you live in South Africa then you can get the Dunlop DZ03G R-compound tire in 235/40 18 and 295/30 18. It is far better than any of the R888, MPSC, P-Corsa, RE-55s etc and are street legal unlike the Hoosiers.

Go for the 'M' compound in the rear and 'R' compound in the front. This way they will heat up evenly. I had them on my 2004 GT3 and they are worth about 1.5 seconds per minute of track time over the R888s.

 

As far as suspension goes... It's already fantastic and I'd maybe consider improving some of the pivot points in the rear with these sorts of things:
http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/techni...s-ztadpol.html

 

Pagid Yellows and Nitto NT-01s have lasted me three all-day events.

I'm a newbie, but I seem to be hustling a bit - times are not totally embarassing. I'm sure more experienced drivers would use up brakes/tires faster. I sure am having fun, though!

After much ado, I settled on 8.5 Complete Custom Wheel (Holly Hill, Florida, USA) rims, 8.5s in front and 12s in rear. Suits me fine w/ 235/40 and 315/35. Occasional minimal rub with elevation change. Mechanic didn't have the set-up numbers handy last time I asked, but thinks camber is nearly 3.

 

Yup, brand new stock disc (steel) on the GT2, after two days (one of them long and hard ) they had cracked on the front (from one of the holes and through the outer edge = no good) and the pads had melted.

PFC gives me plenty more for same/less money...

 

FWIW, I switched to ATE Cayenne rotors for the fronts. Cost $130 each and have lasted almost a year already. Only weight 2.5 lbs more than DeMan per corner.

-td

 

I like 4d)

Usually the cars that bite back that hard are the ones that are the most rewarding to drive.

 

I was at the Kyalami track day this last Sunday whilst visiting SA and saw your car....

I was wondering why you never tracked it? You seem so keen on public road racing in your YouTube videos???