Need Help Deciding...2007 GT3 for $67k...
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I have been looking at a 2007 GT3 and have the dealer down to $67k. The car has 1 1/2 years of CPO left on it, has seen the track but not too much, had brand new tires and brand new brakes (rotors included) at all 4 corners, has 31k miles on it, and is somewhat low spec...it has Nav, Improved Sound, manual sport seats, sport chrono, and is 100% stock.
It has some nicks and scuffs on the interior but nothing terrible and the exterior is very nice.
Give me some thoughts...good deal? Great deal?
It's going to be a weekend and occasional light track duty car and may see some daily driving on nice days.
Please chime in...!
It has some nicks and scuffs on the interior but nothing terrible and the exterior is very nice.
Give me some thoughts...good deal? Great deal?
It's going to be a weekend and occasional light track duty car and may see some daily driving on nice days.
Please chime in...!
Seems like a good deal, in fact pm me the details if you decide not to pull the trigger. 
As for reliability, I pulled this from another thread.
As for reliability, I pulled this from another thread.
Quote:
997.1 GT3 Buying Guide
I would also ask for the following to be checked and confirmed when having a reputable indy or dealership check out the car. Make sure it's clear that you expect a full report on each item.
- DME (DME Results Interpretation)
- Paint Meter all panels (confirms no paint work)
- Brakes (pad wear, expected rotor life)
- RMS (leaking, oil residue)
- Wheel condition (bent, lots of wheel balance weights?)
- Tire condition (wear depth)
- Clutch travel / engagement point (high = worn out)
Originally Posted by spoddle
This may help. 997.1 GT3 Buying Guide
I would also ask for the following to be checked and confirmed when having a reputable indy or dealership check out the car. Make sure it's clear that you expect a full report on each item.
- DME (DME Results Interpretation)
- Paint Meter all panels (confirms no paint work)
- Brakes (pad wear, expected rotor life)
- RMS (leaking, oil residue)
- Wheel condition (bent, lots of wheel balance weights?)
- Tire condition (wear depth)
- Clutch travel / engagement point (high = worn out)
It's CPO so if it wasn't in good shape I don't think they would certify it. Get that thing on the track though, only way to fully appreciate it! Post pics once you get it.
Before you buy anything- have a proper PPI done by someone who knows GT3's well.
CPO really doesnt mean much. I have had several cars through the shop that are CPO cars and should not have been certified due to items that were missed at the dealer.
So do yourself a favor take the time and have it inspected.
Mileage and track time should not be a negative thing either. I have many clients who have higher mileage cars and track there cars often. These cars are often cared for better than just low mileage cars that are not driven at all.. So dont be afraid of a car with some track time as the owners tend to be more aware of there cars and what is required to maintain them safely for track use.
Just MHO...........
CPO really doesnt mean much. I have had several cars through the shop that are CPO cars and should not have been certified due to items that were missed at the dealer.
So do yourself a favor take the time and have it inspected.
Mileage and track time should not be a negative thing either. I have many clients who have higher mileage cars and track there cars often. These cars are often cared for better than just low mileage cars that are not driven at all.. So dont be afraid of a car with some track time as the owners tend to be more aware of there cars and what is required to maintain them safely for track use.
Just MHO...........
DME looked good...nothing beyond range 1. I am buying from a Porsche dealer so I think I'm comfortable from a PPI/inspection perspective.
I'll update later if I buy.
I'll update later if I buy.
I'm looking at two GT3s. Both are 2007. One has 9000 mi. and the other has 30000 mi. The dealer wants $9k more for the low milage one with CPO. So $79k and $89k to start the negotiations. Good news with the lower milage car is that I know the previous owner. The car has only been on the track for two days.
Taking those two examples it looks like you have a good deal in hand.
Taking those two examples it looks like you have a good deal in hand.
Prices seem a bit higher then what other prices I have been seeing lately. If I had to pick one, I would take the lower mileage one if you plan on keeping it for a longer term, and the higher mileage one if you plan on selling it in a few years.
I would pick up the lower mileage car over other. The lower mileage always carries a premium over higher mileage car. If you plan to keep your car for many years, then lower mileage all the way.