Picked up my GT3: break in period
#1
Picked up my GT3: break in period
I just picked up my GT3 and wanted to know about breaking in the motor. The dealership said I don't have to and to run it as hard as I want. This is my third Porsche and I have always broken them in. Dealership said you don't need to on the new cars. So do I need to break it in or not? Appreciate the feedback, I will post photos soon.
#2
My dealer also told me the same thing here in Dubai . He said that this engine is already broken in and you can drive it the way you want , except you would have to monitor the oil gauge for top up till 1st service
#3
this topic is all over the place and i think the consensus is use good judgement.
I drove 275 miles home from the dealership with 10 miles on the car at delivery and drove normally, i hit 6-7K rpms a few times but just in over taking on the highway.
I plan to take it easy until 1200-1500 miles.
Jeff
I drove 275 miles home from the dealership with 10 miles on the car at delivery and drove normally, i hit 6-7K rpms a few times but just in over taking on the highway.
I plan to take it easy until 1200-1500 miles.
Jeff
#4
I staying under 4200 as per spec for at least 1000 mi ( hard to do )
till things loosen up
I don't see how that could be detrimental to the longevity of a engine buit with titanium rods.
Elliot
till things loosen up
I don't see how that could be detrimental to the longevity of a engine buit with titanium rods.
Elliot
#5
I just picked up my GT3 and wanted to know about breaking in the motor. The dealership said I don't have to and to run it as hard as I want. This is my third Porsche and I have always broken them in. Dealership said you don't need to on the new cars. So do I need to break it in or not? Appreciate the feedback, I will post photos soon.
I'd follow the owners manual.
The engine can't be broken in at the factory. The cost would be considerable to run the engine on a dyno and simulate break in conditions.
BTW, restricting engine RPMs to say under 4K doesn't mean driving like an old lady. Once fully up to temperature the engine can and should be subjected to initially moderate loads. As the miles increase the loads can be upped.
Also, unless specifically prohibited by the owners manual, I'd advise an early oil/filter service.
I changed the oil in my new 2008 Cayman S at 750 miles and the oil filter housing oil and filter element were filthy with fine (very fine) metal (alum.) particles. After another 750 miles I changed the oil again and there was still just a barely visible trace of fine metal (alum. again) particles in the oil.
So change the oil early and again at the "end" of break in. I say "end" of break in but really break in continues for thousands of miles beyond the nominal break in period.
I like an oil change at the end of break in as I do not fancy hitting higher RPMs on an engine with filthy oil.
And the oil will be filthy. If you want if you can arrange to have a clean drain pan and dump the oil filter housing oil and element into the drain pan and admire what you have removed from the engine by performing an early oil/filter service.
A properly broken in engine stands a better chance of delivering exceptionally long service life. My 2002 Boxster received a proper break in and an early oil/filter service (and oil/filter services every 5K miles thereafter) and has over 288K miles with no signs of engine wear.
(So did my 08 Cayman S, that is it received a proper break in, but unfortunately after just 4 weeks of ownership, and around 2200 miles, the car was hit by another car and destroyed.)
#6
169 posts and 8227 views, this is a very robust discussion on "break in" with views from all ends...
http://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3/8...few-hours.html
Personally I have driven my car hard up and down the rpm spectrum from minute one (make sure its warm first). I probably hit 9k rpms 6 times on the way home; quick runs with no bogging down and kept speeds and rpms varying. I have done this with all my cars: 4 Porsche Turbos, 1 C4S, 8 AMG's, 6 BMW M's, RS7, R8, S4, GTR, Jaguar, 458 Italia, etc
http://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3/8...few-hours.html
Personally I have driven my car hard up and down the rpm spectrum from minute one (make sure its warm first). I probably hit 9k rpms 6 times on the way home; quick runs with no bogging down and kept speeds and rpms varying. I have done this with all my cars: 4 Porsche Turbos, 1 C4S, 8 AMG's, 6 BMW M's, RS7, R8, S4, GTR, Jaguar, 458 Italia, etc
#7
... Personally I have driven my car hard up and down the rpm spectrum from minute one (make sure its warm first). I probably hit 9k rpms 6 times on the way home; quick runs with no bogging down and kept speeds and rpms varying. I have done this with all my cars: 4 Porsche Turbos, 1 C4S, 8 AMG's, 6 BMW M's, RS7, R8, S4, GTR, Jaguar, 458 Italia, etc
If I was leasing my GT3 and/or I didn't intend to keep it for more than 2 or three years then I might do the same. But mines a keeper, so the break-in period will be less aggressive and I'll do an early oil change.
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#8
I intentionally bought cars out of state and drive them to avoid really waiting to reach 400-1000 mi break in period. The other reason is to enjoy the car in a long drive because when they reach my home, I hardly drive them long distance. My trip to my work is a straight boring drive which I think is a waste of miles.
I will take delivery in March from AZ and will drive it to TX, more or less 500 miles. No waiting period.
I will take delivery in March from AZ and will drive it to TX, more or less 500 miles. No waiting period.
#10
A lot of the race motors I've been around you heat cycle it, change the oil, and wring it out on the dyno... Rings will continue to seat as time goes on. With that said, I'll follow whatever info I get from the factory. Haven't researched it in depth...
#11
I would like to know that also. I have a few friends who C2S and even 458 who have not done break ins and their cars are running fine.
#12
Jeff
#15
I was told up to 5500 rpm for the first 600 miles. Picked it up then our of town so haven't
researched the book answer. Have read many threads on different forums with one
detailing a heat cycle type of break in. The question would be, what can the dealer
read from the DME if you have an issue then try to void your warranty?
researched the book answer. Have read many threads on different forums with one
detailing a heat cycle type of break in. The question would be, what can the dealer
read from the DME if you have an issue then try to void your warranty?