Lower the car for sure (springs are cheapest just check to make sure they are valved for your factory dampers), man i'd go with the 7 series (concave is great!) those wheels look sharp!...get them re-finished for a little extra pizzaz, the shadow chrome or black chrome is great, a gloss black would look good also, even a nice graphite would look nice. You're already getting tint and muffler....I think you'd be almost done with it then!

 

^^ I've never seen valved springs before. That must be some hi-tech sh-t!

You guys talk about wheels like its picking out what shirt to wear. Wheel & tire fitment, hubcentricity, load rating and the spec.s of the hub assemblies / wheel bearings, axels, CV joints and on and on they attach too are all very very specific and highly engineered. There are no fewer than 6 or so very critical wheel fitment measurements that go into selecting a wheel that will fit and work properly on a given car and not detract from the performance of it, esp. one designed from the get-go as a hi-performance vehicle. Hi-performance cars, esp. European ones geared around road racing types of performance, are built to be lightweight. There is a lot of aluminum throughout most the chassis' and suspensions and it is only as strong as it is engineered and intended to be.... ergo the forces intended to be placed upon them from wheel leverage etc. fall with a certain engineered range. They aren't like trucks where the engineers design for a load range of driving around empty or driving around with a load of rocks.

So many times I see people buy wheels that just take them so far backwards performance and even yes safety wise that it isn't even funny. Wheel/tire package is THE very most important component of a car handling performance and safety wise. If you have an M car or an AMG or pretty much any European car that isn't a basement level base model, the wheels you have on there are very good wheels (a lot of them are BBS OEM wheels) and there is a lot lot of thought and real engineering that goes into selecting the proper wheel, measurements, weight, load rating, mounting surface/hub bore and on and on and on. They may be cast, maybe be heavier than could be when no expense spared and the styling may not be "you" but don't ignore, and certianly don't summarily disregard, the fitment selected OEM for the car. You can look also at fitment of option wheels or wheels offered on other trim levels / sub models of your car. And this going backwards isn't always a fitment issue but often a lot of times overall quality too - if you have a high end euro car and you buy aftermarket wheels that retail for anywhere less than $400-500 each you almost for sure just put a way way inferior to OEM wheel on your car.

I just hate seeing people do it, esp. people who are just getting into high performance cars and driving. I don't know anything about person searching here but more often than not it is someone just getting their feet wet in hi-perf. cars that make bad wheel choices.... and a lot of times those are the people that get disenchanted b/c the car doesn't grab their soul b/c it isn't working and performing the way it should and they end up in a chrysler 300M with 22"s in the long run anyway anyway.

Obviously people are going to do what they want in the end... or their forum buddies cajole them into LOL, but do your homework!! Certain wheels are meant for certain cars.... every car has a certain range of wheels that will work properly with it. But then again, if you're just going to drink lattes and look at in Katies parking lot or leisurly cruise around for cheesesteaks and Amish food it isn't as critical (actually I have no idea how you guys drive on those outtings... maybe I should take that back LOL). But drop a bead going down 95 on a super undersized / stretched tire (and it does happen) or pop a ball joint b/c your oversized wheel over leveraged it and prematurly wore it out and then see how you feel about. You're endangering yourself and everyone else around you.... but damn you'll look cool doing it.

Now on the other hand..... if you're goiung to try and follow in the footsteps of our mighty moderator instructor super auto diety and want to go flying around VIR or even pushing your car 75% on the road, please pay attention to get wheels and tires suitable for your car. Sunir.... you should know better..... you need to M-O-D-E-R-A-T-E your forum subjects' purchase decisions. moderate
adj [ˈmɒdərɪt ˈmɒdrɪt] 1. not extreme or excessive; within due or reasonable limits

 

^^ btw I really do have a job. I just like to write. LOL

 

I meant to say springs that are designed to work with the valving of the factory dampers.

As for your last paragraph. Please stay on topic, those contents were Unnecessary.

thanks.

 

I stand reprimanded

 

Good point.. I have 2 sets of wheels for both my cars.

BLING ones for cruising.. they suck and are heavy but look good. And of course light wheels for the track.. usually stock or something better performance aftermarket.

Keep your stockers if you get aftermarket!

 

^^^ I agree. Definitely keep the stockers. But if you're like me, next thing that you know, you'll have 5 sets in your garage. hahaha.

 

This is all that matters

 

Thats about what I figured. Have at it.

 

Sunir have to admit Cliff made me chuckle with his closing statement

 

check out these wheels,

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/m...993443047.html

 

Yup, those are the wheels but I am getting them for way cheaper. I'll need to replace the rear tires so I'll end up paying $1,500 when all is said and done.

 

sweet, thats a great look IMHO for the M3's. Now if it was me I would powdercoat them black and murder that ***** out!

 

Decided I'm going for the OEM 19's. Picking them up tomorrow

 

Good call.