STI's have much better fit and finish....You should at a minimum do the pistons to make decent power....If you build the short block completely then go have fun.....

EVO's make power easier, transmissions and diffs aren't nearly as good as the STI's though....

Both are great cars....

 

Might save your money and get thru school then come play.

 

Sorry in advance for the massive post, but there's almost no STI threads on here and I haven't noticed this one updated in a while! My STI for the record is a 2011 sedan with a Nameless muffler delete axleback, AEM intake, and Cobb AP with their stage 1 tune specifically for the AEM intake (estimated 350/360 BHP/TQ), plus some minor other mods like Enkei wheels, de-badged, better pads, and a few other things.

Headers don't help you and only hurt you unless 1) you're pushing a rotated turbo kit and 2) you have a tuner that knows how to tune for them. The Subaru headers are more than adequate for anything up to about 400 BHP.

Killer B is one of the pricier but better options out there. Any of the cheaper options are going to crack.

I'm very familiar with Nameless. I had the first axleback for a latest-generation STI in the country after their fitment car. The only issue I've had is the powder coating came off everywhere except the tips, which they offered to fix for free, but never actually got back to me after their offer. Personally I'd go with a Cobb DP as the best in the industry due to the fact they're the only ones who use a cast iron merge collector to keep exhaust gas temps up. Their DP is smaller than some other manufacturers, but they don't seem to have problems making serious power with them!

Why does everyone always go right to coilovers? They're overkill and overcost for 99.99% of people. A high quality set of springs (i.e. NOT Tein S Techs) and shocks (Tokico or Tanabe) are all you really need.

Yes agreed. Rotors aren't really required unless you spend a lot of time on the track, then a set of slotted DBAs would be the best option.

Intakes are much more effective on the late model Subarus (including the WRX and STI) than they were on the older models. I've had my 2 STIs (2004 and 2011) sitting side by side in the driveway to look at the intakes, and the OEM system looks almost exactly the same in both, so I don't know why intakes work a lot better in the newer cars than the older ones. They definitely add a nice sound too since you can much, much, much more clearly hear the turbo spool and EWG. You definitely need to go with a cold air unless you like losing power, and the AEM is made by the OEM supplier for the SPT parts, and it's the best unit made for the car.

Just get a Tactrix cable and skip the AP. The only benefit of the AP is the ease of use and the fact you don't need to go to a tuner. As soon as you do, I'd just go right to a Tactrix cable and laptop. Those numbers are good ones to go with for street/track use. Running anything close to 400+ whp for your street tune is going to result in a blown engine at some point unless you drive like grandma and never push it into boost.

I'm probably one of the few people that has extensive experience with the same Subaru car across sea level and high altitude locations (2004 STi) and it definitely results in a 15% loss. 10% is a number nobody can argue with, and at lower parts of the rev range, I'd say 20% is more realistic. Only at the very top end where the turbo is really spooling do you get anywhere close to sea level numbers.

Why do people say the EVO makes power easier and cheaper? My experience is admittedly zero but how much cheaper than $250 (DP) plus tune ($350) so $600 total can you add 20% more power?

 

Ya, Im gonna try and do more research on the sti, just lloking at the engines they seem way more complicated though lol. I really do like the way the new sti sedans looks, glad they are giving an option besides the hatch. older evos still look the best though, I know ill be hard pressed to find one thats got low miles and either lightly modded or one thats already got all my work done for me with quality stuff and at a good price.
yeah that seems pretty cheap, everytime ive looked at sti aftermarket parts though they seem more expensive than for evos. The only person in Boise id trust to tune my car(jake montgomery) charged 400 to tune evos which iswhat his specialty is anyways, but charges 700 to tune an sti, he says they are a lot more work for him and more complicated.

Also since you guys seem to have a good amount on knowledge here is an sti I found that seems to be probably the best deal, this one seems like a good deal right? Not a big fan of this body style though

http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/2871642056.html

 

No need to wait, my RS4 is paid off already so selling it and dropping down to one of these would leave me with about 20-25k in my pocket and ill probably do a 7-8k loan just to keep building my credit. So that leaves even more cash in my bank from the audi to over 30k. Which is more than enough to pay for the rest of my schooling at bsu

 

Opus....The STI sedans are excellent cars....They are just a pain in the butt to make decent power above stage 2 compared to an EVO....If you aren't into the power so much then it will do wonders for you.....

Teflon....You definetly picked the most inexpensive route to fixing up the STI and it works for some....As for the suspension I agree a good strut and spring combo with the added sway bars is going to work fantastically.....

I will post up my build thread on here since it will duplicate the threads on nasioc and iwsti....

 

Here's my 2011


Stage 1 with AEM CAI and Nameless 3.5" axleback. Also has some minor suspension upgrades.

She will be missed

 

^^^are you putting her up for sale? I like the color on that one it looks good

 

It's already for sale!?

That's my favorite color across all model year WRX/STI

 

My brother is going to take it over as I'm leaving the country come September. Gives me an excuse to shop around for an M though