I did the second oil change (at 10K) myself at home. The oil change message changed from something like "change oil soon" to "change oil now" at about that same period. Since I'm 4 hours away from the dealer, I called and asked if there is a way that I could reset it and they told me that resetting required Porsche's software. I verified this with the other dealer in state.

So, long story short, I took the car to the dealer to have it reset. Of course, there was no charge for this "service".

I don't like this at all. First, it had no way of knowing that I'd changed the oil at 5K. And the requirement that only the dealer must remove the warning for what amounts to basic, routine maintenance is very annoying.

 

ok...well, good to know... i have 3500 miles, 13 months, car says, change oil now....
will get 10qts of ma 0-40w and put 9.5qts in first...and see where i am...
gonna take it to local indep shop where i get my 'cars' done...put it on the driveon lift and do it that way.....

then goto dealer for the 'reset'....

btw, one more Q? .... do i need a special size filter housing cap/wrench to remove the old filter element ?

the next thing is to get some CAI tubes and move the air filter element to a more accessible location....fab sp makes one but $700 for both tubes !!!

james R
2010 Pan S
awe exh

 

No special tool is needed. As you can see by the picture, there is a large nut on the end of the filter cap. The largest socket I had was 30mm and it wasn't big enough (not sure if the correct size is 32 or 34mm). I used the largest crescent wrench I had to loosen the cap.

I'd love to have better accessibility to the air filter, but with intercoolers, I don't think I have any options there but to live with having to remove the front bumper to change the air filter.

 

You can get a BMC replacement air filter. But you will still need to clean it on occasion.

 

Falb,

If I recall correctly, you posted some pictures a while back with the grill inserts taken out of the car. Did you have to take the bumper off to do that? I'd like to do that to clean out the areas but removing the bumper is intimidating me.

 

hey, good pic...very informative....
you can grab the filter cap by the larger outer rim with the typical filter wrench/tong or , like you did, grab the end with a socket or crescent but probably have to be careful not to crack or brake it in the process....

i would think it's a hard ABS plastic? not likely to be a metal....

i got 3700 now so, gotta do oil change... have to find me some 0-40w M1...

on air filter.... check out the Fab speed web site...they are the only ones i've seen making something to keep the filter in the eng bay....

james R

 

Ohhh. I had to dig this one up.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rbos-life.html

I had the bumper off. You could do it without removing it but I do not recommend it. The bumper is fairly easy to remove, several screws and some tricky clips. I mean, you have to remove the bumper to get to the air filter so, it can't be that hard. I would also make sure you have a soft clean area to work on and ideally tape the bumper to prevent wear or scratches. The side vents are attached to the fog lights so you really are cutting the slats off the frame of the side ducts.

 

this was very informative, I love this forum.....

 

Just changed the oil. As previously mentioned the panel underneath needs to be removed (21 torx type screws). I have a Skil drilldriver and retorqued them to the 11 setting. Figured this out by ramping up the torque as I removed them. Started at 5, then 7,9, etc. 11 removed it, so I tightened them at 11. Didn't want to strip the threads.

You'll need an 8mm allen wrench to loosen the drain plug.

The filter is closest to the front passenger side. A standard 36mm socket wont remove the filter housing. Too deep. You'll need a shallow 6pt. Available from Sears German-made:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00929877000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&block Type=G1

 

Does anyone know if the Durametric tool with its "Actual Values" can read the current oil level like the PIWIS tool does?

-- I can now answer this question after a quick email to Durametric's support (great person there) -- They are currently working on a feature for this but it does not exist at this time.

 

Can anybody tell me the torque for drain plug and oil filter? I heard it's 37 ft lbl and 19 ft lbl. Is 37 ft lbl too much for drain plug?

 

Those are the correct torques.

 

I actually went ahead purchase subscription on shop manual. For 2012 PTT. Drain plug torque is 22 ft lbl and for oil filter lid is 25 ft lbl. I think 37 ft lbl is too much since OEM drain plug is aluminium.

 

I just found it it is:

Oil drain Plug: 30 Nm or 22 ft/lb
Oil Filter Lid: 25 Nm or 19 ft/lb

So you are right - 37 ft/lb would be too much for the aluminum drain plug - also looks like you mentioned "25" which was the Nm measurement.

This all comes from the WM 1001IN (assumng that Porsche publication is correct)

 

I got this information from online manual. I checked again. It's 35Nm. I converted to ft lbl. Therefore it's 25 ft lbl. I am hoping I am getting correct information!