I still think clearing error codes may fix them already. To have 3 actuators fail at the same time, I don't think Porsches use cheap parts like that. Go to someone with a PIWIS II and try that first. It's a lot cheaper and quicker.

 

2011 Pana4. I pulled apart the door and got the actuator out to check the PN (8K0 839 015A on mine). I put all the same parts back and it has been a month without a fail. The outside handle used to fail 90% of the time -- had to open from inside, then it would work from the outside for a day. Maybe it did need an electrical reset, or is waiting to fail again, or maybe the linkages shifted enough putting it back.

There is a good youtube on how to remove the decorative inside door panel, but I did not find a video or pics on how to remove the next panel inside the door where the actuator is. I wrote up a procedure and took some pictures if anyone is interested. I did not reset anything with Piwis or Durametric. Per wraithetc's concern on the aluminum T45, I torqued them again without snapping. I have had Porsche aluminum screws snap, so new can save a headache.

 

I have same issue on my 2010 turbo rear passenger door. Wont open from the inside.. Also the drivers door will sporadically fail to from the out side?

 

Talleyrand, is there an easy way to "simply" cut power to the actuator to see if it fixes the problem after power is reapplied? It seems this what happened for you, and I have the same problem. I wonder if there is a fuse that controls the doors? Anyone know?

 

Im facing this job now. Would you happen to have posted that procedure, or would you be willing to share it with me? Thanks!

 

Watch this video all the way through.

 

I see Stringbag posted a video. I think that is front door which has a lot in common with rear, but my rear doors were harder due to the little screws holding the outer chrome window trim. Here are some written steps and pictures that might help. My net on door actuators: 1)had to replace both front actuators when they started to fail locking. 2)one rear actuator that would not open from the outside started working after I pulled it out and put it back, then no problems in a year. Maybe it was just dropping power, or maybe something mechanical.

Rear 2011 Pana4 Inner door panel

1. Remove 2x T45 upper left. Leave one a bit in to hold the panel. Picture #1.

2. At upper right, snap out triangular plastic to remove 3rd T45 and right outer trim torx screw. Unscrew but leave the 4th T45 in a bit to hold the panel. Picture #2

3. Remove latch cover at left. Lift a little at the door edge to unclip it, then pull. Picture #3.

4. Window down. Look thru the window slot to see two torx holding the chrome outer trim to the door. I backed them out a bit, then wrapped a wire to avoid dropping them. Pictures #4, #5, #6.

5. Remove the 4th torx holding the outer trim at the far right under the plastic. Picture #7.

6. Remove six T30s holding the panel. Mine had blue dots on them and I kept the screws in order so the dots would align again. Picture #8.

7. Remove two 12pt 6mm screws at the actuator. Picture #11

8. Pull bottom of the panel, then lift. The left separated from the outer door panel about 6-8”. I did not remove the door open holder at left bottom, so rested the panel on a bucket.

9. Four connections to actuator:

a. Oval electrical: screwdriver in rectangular hole to release

b. Square electrical: pull out red clip, then squeeze base to release.

c. Inner door cable: turn the plastic to release.

d. Outer door cable: squeeze the U to pull a plastic pin up to turn. Picture #9.

10. On install, I pulled the rubber pieces off the top of the door and put them into the slots on the inner panel. Picture #10. I saw some folks replaced the 4x aluminum T45s, but I was able to torque without breaking.


#1 2x left T45s


#2 2x right T45s


#3 latch cover


#4 mid trim


#5 mid trim


#6 wire holding screw


#7 left trim


#8 6x T30 blue dot


#9 squeeze and turn cable


#10 rubber edge holders


#11 actuator in door

 

That’s crazy, no wonder my mechanic said no to do it myself, and I need to replace two door handles (entry and drive)

 

thanks, tallyrand, the t45 behind the triangular plastic cover at the upper-forward corner of the door is well hidden!; disassembly went easily with your guidance; today, the new lock actuator installs today ... hopefully the rear-door-not-unlocking problem will be fixed and my 2012 porsche panamera turbo will be back on the road; incidentally, circle porsche in long beach, ca has good prices and reasonable shipping prices. -jpfredette

 

Great job on the write up.
Sorry, yes I did post a video of the front door disassembly - should have explained that I thought it might be useful to see.
Anyway, The same chap made a video of the rear door card removal but sadly not the inner section.
it’s here just for posterity, to go along with your excellent guide.

 

To trouble shoot your rear doors here are the steps I recommend.

Door won't open from exterior, either door is locked or cable is broken/ detached
The lock mechanism on a Porsche has a manual release built in. It is a small silver slot that faces the rear of the vehicle. You can turn this with a screw driver to lock and unlock the door. Unlock the door using this slot with a flat screw driver and then try opening the door. IF it opens, the problem is the locking signal is not being received. This can be troubleshooted by checking the wiring diagrams and testing the door module but if one rear door works, you can simply swap out the door modules and test the locking and unlocking. Make sure you close the latch first with a screwdriver then when you hit the door lock button on the remote, check to see if the silver slot rotates. If it does, then you know that you need to replace the door control module which online is a $140.00 part. You will need a PIWIS II or PIWISIII to program it for left or right side. IF you live in south Florida, I have one and can do it.

 

"I did not reset anything with Piwis or Durametric."

What problems will not resetting an actuator cause? Can the actuator be reset to left or right rear door before installation or afterwards during an oil change at the Indy service provider?

 

When trying to fix my driver door mirror over-rotating issue I would throw a code many times. Nothing really happens you just have a code. And yes my aftermarket Foxwell scanner easily cleared it, at least once the error was resolved, (ie. the harness wasn't connected).

 

To rgfdinnegan3 regarding my comment on not resetting with piwis or durametric.

As far as I can tell, resetting the rear actuator was not needed. I never saw an error on durametric, and do not know how to reset it with the durametric. It is now two years later and zero problems with the rear door opening from outside after just pulling it all apart and putting it all back. It is possible that just pulling the power from the actuator fixed it, but I mechanically pulled the door apart. I don't know if you need a piwis when you replace the rear actuator. You don't need a piwis to replace the front lock actuators, as both of mine failed (stopped locking properly, so alarm would not work) and I replaced both. 2011 Pana4.

 

According to Porsche this is a very common problem. Mine has enter and drive and the handle sensor on the front are toast. Porsche said the handles are $250 CDN painted, so that’s not too bad.

the door not opening from the outside comes and goes with my car so for now I just live with it.