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Castrol Edge 5W-40 US is on the A40 approved oil list, I think the A3/B3 version lost approval. I was reading the 11/19 list last night....
Does anyone know the shear guard torque specs? I could not find it. (It’s supposed to be in “Chassis” but I did not find that). Finally put the car up on ramps, drained the oil, but now decided to replace the oil filter and the 0.5 L of oil remaining with it. Car’s stalling more frequently now....
BTW there are 21 screws for that large under shield, not 28 like I saw somewhere, or thought I saw somewhere.
Realized that the video was on a Pan V6 and the guy said 9 quarts of oil. Tried to search on the manual but couldn't find the correct amount of oil for my Pan S 4.8 V8. Can someone point me to the right direction?
Considering I'm on the other side of the big pond in a tropical country (27°C - 33°C ave outside temp), will my 911's 5w-50 Mobil 1 work for the Pan S as well?
We visited last summer. (I’m half Filipino, so is my wife). Capacities:
V8
without filter: 8.5 litres
with filter: 9.0 litres
oil filter only: 0.5 litres
Initial/Dry fill: 11.3 litres
Max w/ filter: 9.0 litres
Min w/ filter: 8.0 litres
V6
without filter: 7.7 litres
with filter: 8.5 litres
oil filter only: 0.8 litres
Initial/Dry fill: 9.8 litres
Max w/ filter: 8.5 litres
Min w/ filter: 7.7 litres
When I last did the oil change I replaced the filter and measured with a measuring funnel 0.5 quart for a total of 9.5 quarts. This put the oil level dead center on the instrument cluster display.
Curious, is there any difference between liters and “litres”?
I wanted to add a few notes to complete this thread:
I did not have the torque spec for the 7 (IIRC) bolts of the shear guard. I took one to a ruler and measured 7 mm outer thread diameter. I looked on my list and the intake manifold decoupling elements (fancy name for screws/bolts) are 7 mm, with a torque spec of 15 Nm, so that's what I torqued them down to.
Instructions note to allow oil to drain for 5 minutes. This last oil change I let it drip overnight because I didn't want to work in the dark. I measured 0.5 quarts more accurately this time, by pouring half a bottle into another one. I found my measuring funnel was highly inaccurate. With as close to as half a quart as possible I poured 9.5 quarts in, (with oil filter change, I even tried to choose a bottle that matched the side swelling of the bottle I poured from), I drove around and today note one bar from the top/full. (After opening the hood you won't be able to get an oil level reading in the instrument cluster for 6 miles. You can also use PIWIS II to get the reading and fill it to 100% as I understand. But I don't have one of those).
All instructions say all approved engine oils can be mixed with one another if they are the same specification. It's even in bold at the end of the Approved A40 list. A40 is the spec for the Panamera gas engines. Not sure about diesel if there is one. It is explained that this is why it is not necessary to flush the old/remaining oil out when doing an oil change with a different A40 oil. BUT, I finally found just after this note in the same paragraph advice not to mix if possible, for example, to top off with the same brand and type between oil changes.
Last edited by jzchen; May 13, 2021 at 11:55 AM.
Reason: Removed Symptoms as They Were From a Different Mistake.
In my humble opinion, your stalling is not related to oil change.
I suspect you have an unrelated condition at time of oil change that just happened to manifest. Most modern oils are mixable but those doing their own maintenance for the mist part stick to one brand and use all 5he time.
oem viscosity is 0W40, but even Porsche has been updating to 5W40, to make cold temp oil more protective
I would scan car after it stalls again. Fuel pump one of many possibilities. Codes will give you clue.
In my humble opinion, your stalling is not related to oil change.
I suspect you have an unrelated condition at time of oil change that just happened to manifest. Most modern oils are mixable but those doing their own maintenance for the mist part stick to one brand and use all 5he time.
oem viscosity is 0W40, but even Porsche has been updating to 5W40, to make cold temp oil more protective
I would scan car after it stalls again. Fuel pump one of many possibilities. Codes will give you clue.
Thanks ciaka for the advice. I omitted one thing I added to the engine oil, a Blue Devil oil stop leak pour and go product. I was too embarrassed to mention it. My mother and I were on our way home from San Diego when I got an oil level reached minimum message. I just wanted the hope in a bottle solution so I stopped by an AutoZone, read the instructions and per oil quantity poured in two. That stuff caused the oil cap to leak. I bought a new cap and replaced it after draining and filling with Mobil 1.
One curiosity though, is that as I added more Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 the more check engine light with MAP code would come up. Once I switched to Mobil 1 just half a quart and it completely stopped. Now that I've done oil and filter change, and it diluted the remaining "poison", car is driving fine. I'll definitely follow up in the HPFP thread. I see a Delphi HM10101 is coming, which is built new, vs. Genuine Porsche which seems rebuilt, (with core charge).
Here's a picture of the drain plug gasket after removal. As you can see it is compressed significantly by the plug. (This is the side facing the plug). Please do not reuse this. As insurance if you have an oil change at a shop that is not Porsche specialized maybe bring one with you for them to use. It is cheap insurance!
If you purchase an oil-change kit from FCP, I believe it comes with a replacement seal.
Thank you. I went to check today and sure enough it comes with everything including a drain plug, (which I reused again for 2nd time). I ended up purchasing two 5 L and the oil filter separately, a long while back, then continued to use the Mobil 1 that I had stocked up on until last night when I tried the Liqui Moly for the first time. I believe the Porsche oil filter from FCP was missing the o-ring rubber/silicone gasket so I had to get one at the dealer. (That was annoying and costly).
BTW- those 21 undertray bolts are size T-25.
I ended up finishing the oil change at around 10:20 pm last night. I guess the soreness from my second COVID vaccine on Fri made me a little slow. I reset the oil change interval with an Autel MaxiTPMS ITS600 which was nice and quick. After I reset it I noticed the display said "Intermediate Service due in 20 days, 13,xxx mi". Does anyone know what that entails specifically? (Thank you in advance).
I bought 25 washers fir my Ott, and change these gaskets every time. I don't bother reusing as these cheap parts may work 99 % of the time re used, and just that one time will leak. So I just replace any gasket when playing with the car maintenance game.
I bought 25 washers fir my Ott, and change these gaskets every time. I don't bother reusing as these cheap parts may work 99 % of the time re used, and just that one time will leak. So I just replace any gasket when playing with the car maintenance game.
where did you get the washers?
the last time I ordered from Amazon, oil leaked everywhere the next day
