It may me a little bit of a placebo effect but the car did seem to drive a little sharper when you hit the accel and was a little tighter on shifts. Car does drive like new and is working great on track days.

 

No need to fully replace a control arm. Purchase the bushings and have a shop remove/replace the bushings using a bearing press. Aftermarket control arms can be of OEM quality at a much cheaper price. Manufacturers typically purchase control arms from outside vendors, and these vendors often sell direct through shops like Pelican.
There are several aftermarket mfgs that produce polyurethane bushings.

 

Replacing mine with Lemforder Arms, less labor charge than replacing the 3 bushings.

 

I found that the bushings were readily available for the lower control arms but not the uppers.

 

It is interesting to me that bushings are not available for upper control arms. Does this possibly mean that there is a small market for upper bushings? Extending this question, is it always necessary to replace both upper and lower arms/bushings? Perhaps just the lower arms??
An example of the market responding to needs is with air suspension replacement parts: there is an active ebay market for replacement front struts/shocks, but no offerings for rears - perhaps because of no demand.

 

New upper arms are fairly inexpensive in comparison to the lower (hundreds less) I would assume that is why bushings are offered as an alternative since it is known the 970 bushings were a common failure along with sway bar bushings. Rarely hear about rear air struts failing, whole front suspension has seemed to be an overall issue over time. Replacing my upper and lower tomorrow, I will update with results

 

Please keep us posted.
'12 PTTS here with 44K miles which creaks when it's cold. Everything obviously fine right now but will turn into something horrible as of November.
Can somebody please list all the (aftermarket) parts needed to address both issues ?
I have a car lift now and may just plan to address the big maintenance and front suspension issues during the month of October.

 

Problem solved, upper and lower control arms replaced. Car rides like new. Nightmare over

 

Good to hear. Diy always cheaper and helps you know the car.

 

Total cost for parts and labor for planning purposes please?

 

parts ordered from europaparts.com about $700
Labor $180
Sold old arms for $150

 

Developed light clunking noises after the strut started leaking air. Replaced the struts, but noise remained only on low speeds and minor road imperfections or cobblestone surface (nothing on bigger bumps).
Majority of other suspension components were replaced (handling was being affected anyways), but the noise remained.
Had dealer fill the system with nitrogen and calibrate suspension and the noises went away.
Just in cases anyone else is chasing these issues.

 

I'm sitting at 40k on my 2012 and it sounds like grandma's old Cadillac going over bumps. I'll lubricated everything I can with no luck. I ended up purchasing the Strutmasters replacement kit and can't wait to it installed!!

 

On my 2011 4S, I replaced the passenger front last summer and now the driver front is leaking. I'll replace this in the next couple of weeks. Both leaked from the top o-ring on the struts.