I am getting the dreaded system chassis failure message again. I hooked up the Durametric to read the codes and I'm seeing quite a few under the ABS module, such as "Front right speed sensor, electrical fault", "Front right speed sensor, implausible measured values", and "Check center-diff lock control unit fault memory content". Those seem pretty straight forward indicating that I need to replace the front right wheel speed sensor. However, I'm also seeing an error message in the Engine Module as follows, "Transmission Mount Valve -1-/-2- -N262-/-N263- Short circuit to B+ ". Does anyone know if this engine module error message is related to the ABS module messages and the chassis failure message on the dash? Or is something entirely no related? Any ideas or point me in the right direction would be greatly greatly appreciated.

Also, when I went to price the wheel speed sensor I was pretty shocked as to what I found. Not only was it quite expensive, the dealer at $280 is much cheaper than any of the aftermarket ones that run about $360.

 

Update. I checked the ignition coils and all 8 coils had cracks in them. Although they weren't bad enough to set off any of the faults, I decided to replace all 8 plugs and 8 ignition coils. I had high hopes that this would eliminate the weird error messages and espeially the chassis system failure, but no luck. After changing the coils and plugs and used the diametric to clear all the codes, but the same ones listed previously came right back. Hopefully somebody has some ideas and can lead me in the right direction. Thanks!

 

How old is your car's battery? I have found with two Jaguars that as a battery aged past about four years there was a minor voltage output drop, which adversely affected some sensors. These sensors don't work well under less than optimum voltage and then post fault messages. Typically, I would see several seemingly unrelated faults occurring at the same time.
Nevertheless, the battery contained enough power to easily start the motor.
So... what I do not is replace all auto batteries at four years. Incidentally, I always trickle charge a new battery on my bench before installation.

 

Thanks for the idea, bu the battery is in great condition, only about a year old. Since there is absolutely no information anywhere on this message and nobody knows anything, including my indy mechanic I am going to take her in to the Porsche dealership and see what their diagnosis is.

 

It may be the trans valve body. They are not super hard to replace, but gotta drop trans pan and remove valve body, do all the electrical connections, etc.
That is my guess. I hope someone who had this message on, had repair and can chime in on what his fix was. Will help all others.

 

I guess we shall find out soon as I caved and took her into the dealership. I guess it was a good thing because there are like 5 different recalls that I haven't had done that they will be doing as well (camshaft bolt, A/C software upgrade, etc.). I will update the forum once I figure out what the chassis system failure and transmission mount valve error are all about.

 

Awesome.
See if you can talk to the tech about the error and probe him on when this error can get thrown and what can cause it to pop up. He can give you additional info that will be very useful for PD later on.

Thank you.

 

Well I must say that I am a little disappointed. It seems that the Durametric tester may have been sending me down a rabbit hole. There were some other oddities that I noticed with the Durametric when I first got it as well that I reported to their support department. Durametric reported back to me on the oddities that they thought some of the unusual behavior was because of my sub-model, the Turbo S. Anyhow....to make a long story short, the dealer wasn't getting the same messages as I was seeing on the Durametric, but rather they were seeing messages about a short in the wiring for the air suspension compressor. I thought for sure that everything was ok with the air suspension since I had just replaced everything, but come to find out the indy garage that I had replace the compressor rested the wires from the air compressor against the exhaust. Well....we all know the rest of the store from there, cables melted , caused the short, which subsequently caused the chassis system failure. First, Super disappointing to have wasted the money on a new compressor that was literally in there for only a couple of months and the labor that it cost. Secondly, super disappointing that the Durametric tool sent me down a rabbit hole and I never even thought to check the just replaced compressor again.
I have since returned my Durametric and hopefully will receive a refund soon. Rather than offering to work on and fix the issue at Durametric they simply just offered a refund. I really wanted the Durametric to work and perhaps it does for other models, but for the Panamera Turbo S, it was a no go.
Since my car is already at the dealer, I'm just going to have them do the compressor replacement. I talked them down on the compressor price from ~$1400 to ~$1200 and they agreed to 3 hours of labor at $150/hr (started at $170/hr). I think the labor at 3 hours is a little excessive, since it really only takes about 1 hour for the actual compressor, but they also charging for the empty and refill of the air system including reprogramming. So I figured 3 hours of labor for diagnostic + air compressor replacement + air suspension drain and charge + recalibration/programming wasn't too bad. I may have had an indy shop do it, but none of the indy shops are very familiar with refilling of the air system with nitrogen and any recalibration of the system and the car was already sitting at the dealership. Literally every indy mechanic shop I called said they didn't really think it was necessary to use the nitrogen and that they just use air and let the system refill itself with air after compressor replacement. I believe this will work, but I've also heard that it's not good on the compressor and it's better to have nitrogen in the system.
Hopefully some other people can gain where I have suffered here as there are quite a few learning lessons to take away from this. 1) Durametric doesn't work well with the Turbo S sub-model 2) If you take your car to the indy mechanic for chassis system failure, don't just inquire on their familiarity with the strut replacement piece, but also inquire how familiar they are with the compressor, re-filling of the entire air system, and re-initializing/programming of the suspension system.

 

Hmm. Sorry to see that. I use Durametric and it has always been great help to me. Good thing you got refund.
Using an indy is always a gamble, that is why I chose to learn to do myself...car will never be treated as well as when serviced by its owner.
Nitro not a requirement since system is not fully closed system (have a write up on this from service techs).