I am nearing the 20k mileage mark of my 2011 Panamera Turbo I purchased nearly 2 years ago and for the most part, the car has been problem free and has been an excellent daily driver replacement for the Audi A6 that now belongs to the GF. Thus far, I have done some simple DIY items and had a local indy shop replace my pads, rotors, front air struts and address the common coolant leak issue. Aside from a passport radar detector/laser jammer install, window tint, and interior/exterior bulb swaps the car is still in its original state – which brings me to my current dilemma.

I have been getting some check engine lights and interesting engine behavior shortly after morning cold starts during these winter months. I had planned to do lower and upper control arms + alignment this month, but when I inquired with a different reputable indy shop (maybe in a later post I will talk about what happened with the first place) about an estimate, I was given some information about my engine concerns that I am hoping the community might help me verify.

1. Control arms. I have upper and lower Lemforder arms and am being told that the air struts will need to come off to do this job. I am not sure if this is necessary and also unsure as to what to expect regarding a nitrogen refill – I recall nitrogen being mentioned in a few suspension replacement threads, but I am not sure if the previous shop actually did this when replacing my struts… Any input as to what sort of labor hours/cost one might expect for control arm replacement and/or nitrogen refill?

2. Check engine lights and rough idle/vibrations. I am thinking that it might be a good time to replace my battery + plugs and coils. I am not sure if I should attempt this myself as I am an amateur internet mechanic at best – any input?

3. Shop diagnosis in relation to CEL. Shop detected misfire (I think) amongst a few other not-too-concerning things, according to them. It was recommended that I replace the “Bank one and two” oxygen sensors. My research let me to believe that symptoms were product of battery/coils/plugs, but I was not expecting this – I was told that replacing the sensors would be costly/labor intensive. At this point, I thought why not replace the exhaust? First, I am wondering – what sort of labor is involved in replacing the sensors alone and also, could this actually be the cause of CEL + rough engine behavior? Second, I am wondering – does anyone have any feedback/experience with an aftermarket exhaust that works with stock sport exhaust button and will allow for quiet/loud setting? Given what I was quoted for replacing oxygen sensors, I might as well go the distance unless I am being misled…

4. Findings on air intake filter. I removed front bumper to check filter and found that the screws holding the housing together have completely corroded and won’t hold the box together. I taped it back up but don’t want to leave it this way and thought I might spring for something above OEM replacement – Agency Power, ARMASpeed or FabSpeed. Are any of these intakes worth the extra $ and would they necessitate a tune?

I know it’s a long read but I am in a bit of a predicament – not sure how much is reasonable for labor in a control arm replacement job + not sure what the best way to address engine concerns while getting best bang for my buck would be… the last thing I would want is to dump thousands into this to only have the problems persist – any input or alternative suggestions are extremely appreciated!!!

-R

 

Having just helped a friend do his control arms and bushing I can say with confidence that yes the struts need to come out.

without the codes the pulled it's hard to tell what they really found, I would start with plugs, coils and battery(really depends on the age)

plugs and coils aren't hard, but you will need the proper tools( a good spark plug socket is important)

 

Agreed with DW, I went for bushing replacement on control arms versus pure OEM replacement, I think labour was about 3 hours but other shops vary. I would get a code reader that can also reset code like a durametric or PORS II

plugs and coils for sure, they are not hard other than the wobble heads, extensions you will need. Battery only if it needs it.
As far as airbox, there is no real replacement I know of as the intake tubes are behind the turbos, can you put in new screws or drill holes and wire tie? You won’t be replacing it much.
Good luck, we are here to help

 

Start with plugs and coils, if still getting same code, good chance your high pressure fuel pump may be failing, very common on these cars. Just did mine recently as well along with air struts, upper and lower arms, sway links, stabilizer bushings, coils, plugs.

 

Thanks for the help guys - my apologies again for the lengthy post. As stated above I am a bit nervous that I am potentially going to spend thousands on a car in an effort to resolve problems that will remain unsolved only worsen over time and/or are generally not-fixable for a reasonable amount to the point where I should simply trade this car in towards a new one. Further, I am trying to avoid redundant labor costs and play to the fact that I can address potential future issues and possibly do some fun performance improvements during this repair.

Regarding the control arm replacement:

- Any further input on what labor hours/cost will look like?

- Should I expect/pre-order additional components like sway links & stabilizer bushings?

Regarding the CEL/engine feel – I will ask the shop for codes, but they seemed to think cause was the oxygen sensors. That said:

- Should I replace battery/plugs/coils first and re-assess or go with shops recommendation to replace oxygen sensors?

- What sort of labor hours/cost is involved with oxygen sensor replacement? I was told this was going to be costly which is why I thought it might be more cost-effective to upgrade the exhaust…

Thanks again!

 

Thanks for input! Any general consensus on "best" code reader? Also - air box is completely shot - i tried to drill out corroded screws but the thing is in bad shape, it looks like the rust somehow permeated the plastic and compromised the seal between the upper and lower box halves. It is currently taped and wire tied but a new OEM one is going to cost me somewhere between 200-300 - I figured I would spring for something a bit upscale from OEM but these intakes seem to cost anywhere from $800 to $1500 - not something I am opposed to but am wondering if the additional cost is actually worth it.

 

- Any further input on what labor hours/cost will look like?
go to indy tech and should not charge more than 200 per side for upper and lower

- Should I expect/pre-order additional components like sway links & stabilizer bushings?
yes these are cheap and might as well do it while working on arms

Regarding the CEL/engine feel – I will ask the shop for codes, but they seemed to think cause was the oxygen sensors. That said:

- Should I replace battery/plugs/coils first and re-assess or go with shops recommendation to replace oxygen sensors?
if battery is original yes, coils and plugs are recommended at around 40k but are known to go bad earlier

- What sort of labor hours/cost is involved with oxygen sensor replacement? I was told this was going to be costly which is why I thought it might be more cost-effective to upgrade the exhaust…

just upgrade exhaust and be done with it, there are multiple sensors, not very labor intensive at all, go to a good independent tech and it will be easy to do with all suspension components if you choose to not upgrade

 

you'll definitely want to replace the links and sway bushings while it's apart

I would do plugs/coils first, then worry about exhaust if the issue isn't cleared up.

the biggest cost is going to be labor, and that will only go up if you decide to replace the exhaust system

 

agreed, exhaust labor is most expensive, all the rest is nothing extensive at all

 

I recently had my front upper and lower control arms replaced on my 2011 PTT. I supplied the parts, the labor cost was ~$1325, including an alignment. If you do the sway bar bushings, make sure they order the correct ones. There is a post on the forum here with more detail, but I beleive the part number for the trubo/turbo s ends in a 7, as oppsoed to a 5 for the non-turbos. The shop I went to had a hard time getting the correct parts from Porsche and ended up greasing mine and putting them back in, which has worked out fine.

 

I seem to be having a hard time finding a good indy shop... the first place I went to bent me over for everything from oil changes, parts cost and labor, but this was my first Porsche and I didn't really know what to expect. I had to find a new shop after a recent incident - car went in for diagnosis of control arms and engine noise, someone took the car out and drove it quite fast into what I am guessing was a massive pot/sinkhole that must have been several feet deep and filled with water. Received car back and left during storm only to find out that my HVAC was completely shot and could not get condensation off of windshield to see. It had been working completely fine before but I had to turn around. They told me that it just happened to short out at that time but upon further inspection once I made it home I found that my engine bay had mud splatter on the inside - all over engine and even on hood lining. Somehow, mud splatter even made it up into the fender behind the headlights - no idea how this could have happened and not sure I want to know. Belly pan was completely torn up and has since fallen off. Further, blower motor was waterlogged. Shop played dumb, still trying to figure out what I am going to do about it.

New shop has quoted $305 for a 4 wheel alignment + $278 for nitrogen refill which they would sublet to a dealership + $4242.34 for upper and lower control arm replacement... I hope that figure includes parts (I already purchased my own) but even so it seems very excessive.

They also quoted me $2171.08 to replace the oxygen sensors... also seems quite excessive

 

Those numbers aren't excessive they are INSANE. Struts do not need nitrogen, air is fine the compressor will compensate, and alignment should be no more than 150. Your being taken advantage of all around wherever you are going

 

Where are you located, hopefully someone can point you in the direction of a good shop

 

Right out side of Boston, Massachusetts... I feel like this area is a hotspot for dishonest stealerships + potentially worse independent mechanics

 

If the click and clack radio show still existed, the tappet brothers would have great fun with this thread.

I learned to fix cars because of curiosity but also because it’s difficult to find a good trustworthy shop. OP, contact your local Porsche chapter for advice if you haven’t done that already. Yes, the prices you were quoted are ridiculous.