Next instruction is to detach relay box from strut. This appears to be back on the right side. Ours looks already detached!

 

It's starting to get dark. Next step is to clamp hoses on each side of the center panel. I didn't realize there are four clamps and only bought two. I may stop for the day:

 

Probably overkill but baggied the fasteners separately:

 

Removing the A strut is a pain. I busted both clips that attach these two harnesses to the A strut:

Not sure what to do to reattach, I carry on...

 

There's the high pressure fuel pump!

 

Can’t remove the remainder of the cap inside the valve cover. Very frustrating. Wonder if there’s a bad consequence leaving it there? Sigh.

 

What else is not shared:

Instructions say to use a flat head screwdriver to carefully pry the pump from the mating surface when removing. Been there done that.

I woke this morning with the idea to use an old toothbrush to pull out the remaining cam cover cap ring inside the valve cover. Initial test on the new cap seemed positive, once pressed in the toothbrush gripped the cap and could lift it up. No luck. Feeling inside with a finger I sense it was partially damaged, and eventually lost inside the cam cover. I'm not taking the cam cover off to get to it, so I carry on. (No mention of necessity to retrieve all the pieces in there. It was floating in oil from what I could gather.

Kluber Syntheso GLEP 1 should be used lightly/sparingly on the sealing ring between the HPFP and the whatchamacallit it mates to. (I don't know the name of what it mates to so). "Excess grease can result in leaks." I didn't see this until after I fit the pump, so missed that one!

Torque settings:

The 1001IN Tightening torques, tightening sequences and assembly overviews document shows :

Three skinny long bolts: 10 Nm
There is one fat long bolt: 23 Nm
Attaching the coolant hose holder: 10 Nm, (I used 8.5 Nm worried it might budge the skinny long bolt)
Fuel pump shield: I used 8.5 Nm not finding what to use in the document
Low pressure: 25 Nm (counter with wrench holding hex at base)
high pressure (the smaller line): 25 Nm
Discrepancy, instructions for HPFP replacement say 35 Nm for both if I read it correctly
(This is a three step process, tighten to spec, loosen, then tighten again on those fuel line connections)

Any thoughts on what torque I should use? I am debating trying 25 Nm on the low pressure and 35 Nm on the high pressure because 35 is in bold on the HPFP instructions.

Hardest part of the whole job was probably getting the giant metal A-strut out. Instructions missed a few things still attached to it so I had to get to them while my son and I were manipulating it out. Close 2nd is probably retrieving the remainder of that darn plastic cap inside the cam, or is that valve cover?

Forgot!

Test for leaks before reassembling everything. Not sure I got that document
Use PIWIS to reset the HPFP adaptation

I received the Foxwell NT510 Elite yesterday, (as well as the pump), but unfortunately it was for Chrysler! In contact with support, they say they can help me change it. I debate just purchasing the Porsche software as Chrysler is actually more expensive, and although no Chrysler vehicles in the household it might be nice to have in the future. $60 to add what should already be there, let's see what they come up with, and then I need to see if it can do the HPFP adaptation.

 

Installing the rebuilt pump gave a little more insight about the broken piece inside the cam cover, so I thought I'd share before I forget. As I was installing the new pump you first insert the metal ring with the white cap as it easily loosens and may drop if you assemble it onto the pump first. (I tried fully assembled and almost dropped the ring and cap). As you insert the ring and cap, the cap will meet some resistance as it is a tight fit. This is why the toothbrush idea did not work. It is more resistance than the bristles could handle. Push the cap in gently. Also, I compared the old pump and new pump in respect to clocking the "Oldham coupling". I rotated it to match as carefully as I could.

I tried 34 Nm on the fuel lines because I was using an crows' foot hex to tighten the fittings, and that increases the effective torque. I was able to tighten the larger low pressure connection, but stopped before reaching 34 Nm on the high pressure line. I was afraid of possibly breaking it. Probably better to try 25 Nm on the high pressure connection...