Gathering some information for PDK transmission fault.
Last week son drove PTT to store, when came out said reversed out of park spot, and when shifted into drive it was acting as in neutral. Called me. Told him to turn car off, he did. Restarted and car drove just fine even though transmission fault still stayed on.
I scanned car after he returned, got errors all over the place (99% of them are because car was in sport mode and sport+ pasm). So most of these were tripped since PDK got fault so car was not allowed to have the sport modes.

Anyway, I scanned and the two errors that I saw were shift rod 1 sensor implausible signal, and shift rod 2 implausible signal.
After I cleared the codes, car drove just fine.

Then, couple days ago, took car for a quick battery charge 15 minute drive. Car again was in sport/sport+ suspension, and on way back (guess car warmed up fully by then), stopped at a light. At green, tried to drive but car acted as if it is in neutral.
So I went through the gears from D to P, back to D, back to P. Turned car off. Started car, and car drove perfectly fine then, even transmission fault error disappeared (still have to scan car to see if errors in memory).

So gathering my info. Saw few posts on this.
My battery was very questionable. Since starter went it was suspect last year. Kept it just because i was not sold on it being bad (tested ok). But over last 3 months, car got discharged fully, had to boost,and noticed the hatch on way down gave error, electronics like that on fritz especially if using Burmester at loud levels (son loved to do that and that is when I was noticing batt. issues). So this spurred me take battery today in. Tested and showed not far from bad on tester, but when I looked at one side of battery, it started bulging out.
So off i went spending another couple hundred on AGM battery. Just put it back in, drove car around neighborhood trying to cause issue was could not.

Hoping that is what it is, bad battery. Tomorrow I think I will put car up and check the level of PDK fluid. If it is low, could mean sensors may be heated even more. Saw some oil sweat around PDK pan last oil change. Tightened bolts a little, too cheap to spend another 500 to get new pan/oil (just did PDK fluid change maybe 25k miles ago).
If you have info, let me know. I was so hoping I wont be putting together more DIYs, but seems it was optimistic.

So far, if error comes back, I will need the PDK sensor array (about 650), maybe the harness (quite not convinced it is needed as it only provides physical connection, and if not damaged should be fine (about 200). Then would need the PDK pan (another 300), PDK oil (another 250).
Then I read I will need PDK re-calibration (I could buy that when sensors are replaced, only thing these are solid state sensors, so nothing physical to calibrate, but we will see.

Any info will be greatly appreciated. Car drivable, but I am trying to spare it. After battery change I will try to duplicate issue to see if battery resolved it. FYI, Porsche is the World leader when it comes to making cars that are very sensitive to voltage/current levels when it comes to all its subsystems. 50% of all issues can be traced to weak battery. So I am really really hoping this is it. We shall see.

 

Ciaka! You’ve been missed! Haven’t heard from you for a while! Battery seems like a good start. Was the battery you just replaced the original that came with the car? What were the actual fault codes?

Hopefully you and family are safe....

 

Were all safe here. Have a case if corona, but it is isolated inside the fridge.

dont reme.ber code numbers but the wording of codes was shift rod 1 sensors implausible signal, and shift rod 2 sensors implausible signal.

yeah, car has been running well so had no need and keep busy working too.
now got this error and dont feel like spending thousands at dealer.

replaced battery today. Drove and could not replicate errors. Will try over time. I also want to check pdk fluid level. If lower, could be overheating trannies, and could explain sensors errors sometime, especially in sport mode.
I'll chime in over few days.

 

Replaced the battery on our GTS last week, I believe on the 6th. I finally solved out how to register it today with my Foxwell tool. Something is wrong with the menu system so I kind of did it blindly:
​​​​​https://drive.google.com/file/d/1se5...w?usp=drivesdk

Wife got in the car that Monday morning to go to work. Son and I were nearby, (inside the house having breakfast). She cranked the engine then immediately turned it off, then quickly started it again. Then she came in saying it says "Reduced Engine Power". I went to check with my code reader and reset the codes. Codes were low fuel rail pressure, both sides, and immediately the check engine light came back the next time I started the car, even before starting I believe. I also got some sort of Voltage Protection Shut Down message on the infotainment screen which directed me to the battery.

Not sure this helps you any but hope you registered the battery. I noticed a difference in the Voltage pattern on the display when driving around after the successful registration.

 

Never heard of registering battery, so please tell me what the steps are.

After I replaced battery, I drove maybe 4 times. Issue has not surfaced yet. Still checking...

 

It's a process you do with one of the scan tools. I only have the Foxwell tool so I'm not sure the steps for other tools.

I just used the specs from the old battery and changed the last digit/letter of the serial #. (I should have used the actual serial number from the new battery but I was just seeing if I could actually accomplish it. The video I linked shows the difficulty I had because the menu system seems broken on the NT644 Pro).

It gave these items to enter:

Manufacturer
Ah rating
Part # (11 digits/letters. I found that entering "." would cause the tool to freeze, so I substituted "0" instead of any "."
Serial #:. (10 digits/letters)
Date of installation:. (I just entered the current date worried I'd crash it with the actual installation date).

I can tell a difference observing the Voltage displayed in the instrument cluster while driving around. Before with the old battery a significant amount of time it would display 14.5 V or 14.6 V. Now it may reach 14.6 V for maybe 5 to 10 minutes, then it will drop down to 13.5 V for the rest of the time. (I understand this as not driving the new battery as hard to keep it's charge level).

I hope there's this option in your scan tool? In the Foxwell it's called "BRT". I have been in communication with Foxwell hoping they will fix the menu system as well as the function for a BMW E90. I can't seem to register the proper specs on our '08 335xi sedan.

 

See my post here.
https://rennlist.com/forums/panamera...l#post16534788

 

Thanks for the post.. I will check to see if Durametric has anything like that for recoding battery. I do not seem to see difference in loading except that old battery, when I got into the car, without starting it, looking at the charge, it would show as low as 11.2V, which was not a good indicator. Plus one of the sides of the battery started to bulge out. With new battery, when I get into car, without starting it, I see 12.2V constantly, which does not drop over time or after multiple starts. When car running I see 14.5V on display.

 

As an update, put the car up, to check PDK fluid level, just to make sure it did not leak out to low level or something. Checking level I found it to be full. I did see slight oil sweating around the rear of the PDK oil pan.
After the check, I made sure I torque the pan bolts per FSM. They all appeared to be to spec. I added maybe 1Ftlbs on rear bolts for now.

Then I took the car for driving. In normal mode I could not get the error to come up, but in sport mode, after PDK was at temp, I did get the same transmission fault error (stopped at a store, went in to buy something, came back out, started car, at which time saw the transmission fault again).
Had to stop engine, restart, then stop again, and restart, I think 3 times before error cleared from cluster display. This allowed me to get home. When transmission fault was on, car acted as if it was in neutral, you step on gas and car does not drive.
So looks to me like I will be off to a store to get the sensor pack. I do not think I will need the harness, symptoms point to the sensor(s). These are solid state sensors, so I dont know why I would need a PDK recalibration, as these go into exact position by the way they are bolted to the PDK chassis.
So I wonder if the PDK recalibration will be required. I understand if some sensor which have specific motion may need calibration since each moves slightly different, but these are just ones that look like a stick, you bolt them in with a screw at location, which fits exactly.
Guess we will see. This job looks like will cost - about 650 for sensor pack, plus PDK oil cost (I am sure if I captured old into clean bucket I can reuse since oil is maybe 15 or 20k old), plus PDK oil pan cost. I assume about 1k cost to do myself, From posts others stated, this would be about 5k at dealer. Guess if you want to play with nice toys, you best be prepared to have best wallet for them too.

 

Yes, the car treats the new battery like it's old because it has not been programmed yet. Once programmed the 14.5 V will drop to ~ 13.5 V after a few minutes. It no longer force feeds a charge on the new/healthy battery.

 

Durametric does not seem to have it. Anyone know if Durametric has this option and I just cannot find it, for battery reprogram.

 

Looking at the model/feature matrix on the Durametric site I don't think it has the ability. It's interesting that Duram seemed to name the tool after himself. I worked with him some on his Bavarian Technic (Pro version) tool, the year it first came out. After Positive Identification I was able to code the DME. I got an upgraded DME and I was no longer able to access coding. They aren't willing to unlock that, which I believe is where the battery registration feature lies.

 

As an update, I was about to pull the trigger on the sensor, but thought to just drive to see when the error comes up. Since my post update April 13, I have not seen the error.
So now I am not sure where I will go next. I drove it in sport mode few times to try cause issue, nothing. Wife drove it (which to me is a great test for getting something to Fk up), nothing.
I guess I will keep trying and keep driving. I did order a new transmission pan with bolts, maybe thinking I will dump oil and put in new pan, and do a PDK reset.
If no errors, it could have been intermittent due to batter? It seems after battery swapped to new one, I had the error come up once (did not clear out any errors on battery change). Possible the error conditions were already in ECU but were not yet flashing the error. What do you think?

 

Sounds like a random error to me. Ours causes a check engine light maybe on average once every two weeks.

 

Maybe if I do few launches, that should give me some additional data. Hmm?