Thanks a lot for the clarification! Good job again!

 

... just last week I decided to remove the hydraulics altogether...

 

Thanks for the info. I actually removed the wing years ago and like the simple ducktail flip without the movable top double stack look. The original failed early on before 15K miles. The second one before 21K miles. I took it off, took the pump apart and found the lower plastic cylinder base severely cracked. I had a piece of 6061 and cut it to shape ready to mill the counterbores for the cylinder bases, then Sambo (thanks) sent me a good plastic base and I stopped there. Mine is ready to reassemble and I was unaware of an equalized balance tube. I'll look for it and make sure it's not seized up.

If I'm understanding this right, there is a passage between the cylinders to equalize pressure. In the passage there is a semi-floating pin or piston that may not transfer fluid but may slightly increase fluid volume between cylinders?

Thanks for your help.

 

That was my guess as well and freeing the pin seemed to help. As in my case my rams and piston seals were all in good shape. However one ram moved at half speed and only extended 3/4 of the way.



I don't have many pics, but here is one of the pin half way out of the passage.

 

Yeah I did all of this stop leak works for a while, I even replaced all the o-rings and added more stop leak which also worked for a while

In the end I decided to go with Daves Rennkit 4" Rams super easy install and my wing always goes up and down when it should.

You really cant go wrong with Rennkits 4" Rams.

 

So I finally got around to doing this fix today. My drivers side ram has been seeping (but not actually dripping into engine bay) for about a year. The spoiler has always raised evenly and I've never gotten a failure message on the dash.

With all that said, when I disconnected the lines from the pump, ZERO fluid came out of the lines, and less than an ounce came out of the pump. I don't know how my spoiler was still working perfectly, but it was. The pump took a lot more fluid than I thought it would, and it's all back together and working perfectly now.

 

I have an idea
Can i just move the wing manually to a fixed & balanced position & unplug the fuse so that it no longer move up & down? (One side works and one side stuck for my case)😢

 

While this will position the wing in the desired position, your hydraulics will be in the position of most pressure all the time. If you have a leak already, this is going to drain your fluid as fast as possible. If you don't currently have a leak - it will come...

 

you'd be best served by having a competent person ( if you cannot yourself ) follow the instructions described herein on a system "re-bleed" as the thread title suggests. as thats all you need to remedy your spoiler's malaise.

or as you say, just lock them in the "up" position with a few bolts or the "fixed wing kit" thats been available on eBay for some time.

 

Probably not, for at least 2 reasons. 1) The fuse is for the trunk latch and maybe a couple of other things back there. 2) Like Slider said, keeping the rams under constant hydraulic pressure will promote failure in one of the weak links of the hydraulic system that much sooner. The springs in each ram are very strong, pushing against the hydraulic seals, hoses, etc. You will end up with a drip or spray of Pentosin (corrosive and highly flammable) fluid into your engine bay - or down the back bumper, like I experienced...

 

I've been reading about this failure for years, and lo and behold, yesterday it became my turn. Other than the fault code on the dash, it works perfectly (but it won't stay locked in the up positon with the switch). I'm going to tackle this next weekend and already purchased the Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Stop-Leak. Is there any reason why I can't use it straight rather than going 50/50 with the regular fluid?

 

Possibly could be issues with lubrication or thickness. I don't know if stopleak has oil in it. A thicker oil like gear oil might leak less but not sure if it would react properly with the seals to swell them.

 

when in doubt? just use pentosin ch11s or ch202. its factory fill.

 

seems to be more common in hotter climate cars.

 

Gotta like a creative solution.