Seattle - run the filter wrap and you'll be fine. It repels water very well so unless you expect a deep water crossing it should be great.

What parts do you need for your 997 conversion? I happen to have a 997 Y pipe I found mislabeled on eBay if you're interested. Frankly I think a fabbed intake would be better and I understand the fuel cooler has to be tweaked to run the 997 stuff which is no fun

Lastly, considering someone else was all sorts of happy to make power claims based on fuel usage it's kind of amusing to see Sam's power comments dismissed. IMO fuel usage data and A/F readings are pretty useful.

Now, about that twin turbo 928.... heard and read about them and would love to know more

 

i have an extra set of 0710 that i run on my efr turbos

 

All I need now is the throttle body which isn't really hard to find... I have an OEM 997 Y pipe but I think now I want an aftermarket/larger one, but I want to make it all fit with the OEM stuff before I go about modifying it...

I'm deleting the fuel cooler. Lot of work required to keep that thing and the benefits are questionable from what I can tell... Turbos outside of US did not have it and most GT3s did not come with it.. I think pwdrhound deleted it on his car and he pushes harder than I ever will. I did have to get ROW AC pipe.. but that is a lot easier than all of the things needed to convert to 997 fuel cooler.

 

do you have a part # for the a/c pipe?

 

I can get it when I get home, I'll post it later today or in the morning.

 

I deleted my A/C but even with A/C you will also need the non cooler fuel line that goes across the top of the motor from bank 1 to bank 2. My understanding is that a majority of the TT/GT2 cars had the cooler worldwide with only a few geographic areas as non cooler cars. If running the stock fuel pump, my guess is you will be fine. With a high flow pump and high ambient temps, likely not. At least that was my experience.

With a high flow walbro 450 I experienced fuel overheating (boiling) and as a result ended up going to an on demand fuel system which regulates pump output based on engine demand. This drastically reduces fuel bypass (recirculating) which in turn greatly reduced fuel heating. At idle, we run the fuel pump just enough to maintain 3.2 bar with the fpr fully closed which essentially eliminates any fuel bypass. Fuel pump output is increased with a rise in RPM or an increase in boost. This works extremely well as I have not had any issues since.

Contrary to popular belief, the greatest fuel heating on a fixed output pump set up will be with the car stationary at idle (stop and go bumper to bumper traffic) because this is where fuel demand is lowest and fuel bypass (reheating) the highest. Lowering the pump output at low power demand was key to keeping fuel temps in check without the fuel cooler. Just my experience, YMMV. The stock GT3 pump output is rather meager and as such no cooler is needed in my opinion.

 

I don't run the oem fuel cooler but do run an air cooler up front where my front diff was.

 

Call Sean at SRM regarding throttlebodies, he's got a few in stock and may have what you want especially f you wa t to go big.

 

I'm running a 450 with a PWM controller that ramps up the pump output as boost builds.. Kinda set the same way, barely any flow at idle and uses a potentiometer linked to throttle to increase flow, and a boost switch that kicks it to full output at a set psi.. Researched and built this after talking with you many months ago .

Right now I'm running all of that through mostly stock fuel system outside of the pump and feed line, but when I do remove the cooler I'm going to have a feed to each rail from a Y-block and return from each rail to a regulator... Building an E85 fuel system so I can turn the power up on the street, then for the track days drain the tank, add 100 octane and run a more conservative tune.

32krazy I forgot to dig out the part last night, I had family fly in and was busy, I'll get it tonight

 

no worries. remember when you go to e85 you burn a 1/3 more fuel than gas. so everything has to be increased. pump size lines and injectors. also e85 is hydroscopic so it absorbs water. the use of external s/s fuel filters with removable mesh are a good thing to use to trap debris and water. the e85 will descale the inside of your tank and run all the junk thru the lines.

i use a weldon external fpr and an-8 lines with a weldon 100 micron filter and srm brushless fuel pump setup with computer controller. e85 analyzer wired to my proefi 128 for on the fly adjustment of the e85 files

 

Ahh, now I remember talking to you about it last year. You're all set!

 

Yep.. I'm going -10 from tank split into two -8 to feed each rail, then -6 return from each rail to Weldon FPR and -8 back to tank. Also going to use the Weldon wire mesh filter. Should be plenty of flow way more than I plan to use. My goals are not lofty, but I would rather overkill it and only do it once.

Only thing that will hold me back will be that Im using stock rails modified rather than billets, and injector size, but that's easy to swap out relative to having to re-run all the lines and stuff.

 

Yep! I really appreciate all the advice you've shared on my project so far As well as the awesome parts.. One last track event with the stock diff this weekend.. Can't wait to get the Guards in.

 

no need to run an-10. way to much overkill. run an-8 from tank to back split to an-6 if you have to run the oem rails modded and an-6 back to the tank. more than enough fuel. at the split go to each side from the front of the pass rail cross back to the fpr then out to the d/s front of the rail. bottom of the fpr gets the return line. add a guage for visual fpr readings. i also have a 5 bar proefi sensor that runs to my 128. you could run a e85 analyzer on the return line and wire it to a gauge to see what the e85 content is your running. use a e60 file on the dme and you will be fine with most any pump efuel

 

+1 !!

Curious how it will measure up.