Well folks, my spoiler will not raise on the driver side. When I took off the 'spoiler shock' (for lack of a better term) covers inside the engine compartment I noticed both of the lines had a bit of leaking. I popped both of them loose to make sure they both had fluid, which they do and tightened them up and wiped them down. The wiring seems to all be in tact on the passenger side and there is no wiring on the driver side.

Also, when the spoiler raises automatically at speed, it sometimes becomes stuck on the passenger side and won't go down. When I loosened the banjo bolt on that side for the hydraulic line, it seemed like it reduced the pressure enough to let it drop.

What do I need to do to get the spoiler to raise again on the driver side? There aren't any check engine lights. Is there a way to keep the spoiler from raising at all until this is fixed to prevent further damage?

Thank you.

 

You could pull the wing fuse to keep the wing from going up until you find out how to fix the problem. .

 

Good idea. Where is that fuse located?

 

Fuse box should be by your left foot on the driver side. Open the cover, you'll find a fuse chart. Look for the spoiler fuse location. That is the one to pull.

 

Careful, I think that fuse also cuts power to the rear deck lid.

 

See my reply in your "Fuse diagram incorrect" Post for the rear spoiler fuse number, this will turn on the rear spoiler warning light. There is a post somewhere describing the "wiring hack" to leave the spoiler light off. Sounds like a ram is failing.

 

Ha, I didn't know you had a post about the fuse diagram being incorrect.... but I figured it out the hard way. I wonder if our findings were the same?

 

I does sound like the spoiler rams. I think that they are about 4 hundred something a piece. Common failure, one thing you want to avoid is having the spoiler in the up position when its sitting, this is when the rams are at the peak of their pressure and they can prematurely leak if you keep the rams up on a regular basis. It looks cool but its not that cool when you pay $400 a pop. We just had a car in that had this "wiring hack" done to the rear spoiler. What had happened is the guy had pulled the harness apart @ the pass rear and put some connectors together to make the light go of in the dash. But what he didn't know is that he had damaged the wiring harness that goes to the deck lid which happens to be $270 bucks for the factory harness. So you can make a quick fix to save 400 bucks but in the end you are spending more if you go with the hack.

 

Not to mention it can also be disabled with a Porsche tester, and MUCH easier to return it to stock if the need arises.

 

i'm selling a complete assembly if anybody needs it...

 

As a follow up, I ended up removing both rams, the motor, hydraulic lines, and the original wiring harness. I put in the GT3 (or is it GT2?) wiring harness that usually comes with a GT3 decklid and wing purchase. So my spoiler lost a little weight and always stays in the down position. At some point in the future, I will buy a new decklid and spoiler to go with the wiring harness.... no downforce issues that I could tell at a track. I only got about halfway through 4th gear on the straights though before I had to get on the brakes.

 

When I got my car the spoiler wouldn't rise and the person I got it from had ordered new rams and wirering for me and paid to have them installed. I didn't know ( or think about actually ) the fact that the pressure is at it's peak when the spoiler is raised. I have left it raised many times cause I like the look better.

Thanks for pointing this out. I'll let the car do it's thing and raise and lower it according to the need.

 

I am looking for a wiring diagram for the spoiler motor for an 07 911 turbo does anyone know where I could find one. I am putting the assembly on a 2010 camaro ss.