Toyo R888 VS Nitto NT01
#76
Just drove the NT01's on track last week, I really loved them. It wass 90+ degresss and I was pushing as hard as I could and they only got a little greasy after 25 min or so. I think the R888 I drove on my buddies car were old, because they felt horrible in comparison.
#77
Updated info on the R888s courtesy of AIM tire at Sears Point:
The R-888 with the stiffer sidewall and softer undertread construction requires a bit less initial camber settings and WE BELIEVE increased (over the Ra-1) starting and 'HOT' tire pressures to provide a longer lasting and more consistent experience.
====================================== TOYO MOTORSPORTS - CANADA SUGGESTIONS:
VEHICLE WEIGHT.............STARTING PRESS...........HOT
_____less than 1776 lbs.......... 17-22psi........... 22-29psi
_________1776-2220 lbs.......... 20-26psi........... 24-32psi
_________2220-3109 lbs.......... 23-27psi........... 28-40psi
_________over 3109 lbs.......... 27-35psi........... 37-42psi
The correct initial (Cold or starting) air pressure is critical to achieve an optimum contact patch shape. Optimum starting pressures are determined by the TRACK, EVENT DISTANCE, CHASSIS TYPE AND SETUP, CHASSIS WEIGHT and DRIVING STYLE. So, the above pressure chart is RECOMMENDATIONS ONLY!
** Canada finds an increase in pressure from starting to hot of 10-12 lbs acceptable. Howeveer, it has been our experience that if the pressure should increase more than 10 lbs from start to hot one should start with a higher pressure. We've found that a 8 to 10 lb. increase from starting to hot pressure is best.
The R-888 with the stiffer sidewall and softer undertread construction requires a bit less initial camber settings and WE BELIEVE increased (over the Ra-1) starting and 'HOT' tire pressures to provide a longer lasting and more consistent experience.
====================================== TOYO MOTORSPORTS - CANADA SUGGESTIONS:
VEHICLE WEIGHT.............STARTING PRESS...........HOT
_____less than 1776 lbs.......... 17-22psi........... 22-29psi
_________1776-2220 lbs.......... 20-26psi........... 24-32psi
_________2220-3109 lbs.......... 23-27psi........... 28-40psi
_________over 3109 lbs.......... 27-35psi........... 37-42psi
The correct initial (Cold or starting) air pressure is critical to achieve an optimum contact patch shape. Optimum starting pressures are determined by the TRACK, EVENT DISTANCE, CHASSIS TYPE AND SETUP, CHASSIS WEIGHT and DRIVING STYLE. So, the above pressure chart is RECOMMENDATIONS ONLY!
** Canada finds an increase in pressure from starting to hot of 10-12 lbs acceptable. Howeveer, it has been our experience that if the pressure should increase more than 10 lbs from start to hot one should start with a higher pressure. We've found that a 8 to 10 lb. increase from starting to hot pressure is best.
#78
NT01s 315/30/18
I just ran NT 01s for the first time on my 997C2S. I had lots of good track time with them on my 987 Boxster S in the past.
They worked great, same predictable feel and stick.
I Do have a major issue that is related to the sizes I am running. When pushed hard the DME computer does not like the size ratios that I am running and puts the car in a limp mode. The error code comes back as a "Torque Comparison" error code. I'm running 245 40 18 front and 315 30 18 in the rear. (only tire sizes near Porsche 997 available).
I was able to run by using the "normal" suspension mode, and turning off the PSM. Turning off the PSM is not such a big deal, but having to run in the "soft" mode of the suspension setup really sucks. (NOTE: running with the PSM off: I am an experienced HPDE instructor/coach and can handle the car just fine w/o mother computer's help)
They worked great, same predictable feel and stick.
I Do have a major issue that is related to the sizes I am running. When pushed hard the DME computer does not like the size ratios that I am running and puts the car in a limp mode. The error code comes back as a "Torque Comparison" error code. I'm running 245 40 18 front and 315 30 18 in the rear. (only tire sizes near Porsche 997 available).
I was able to run by using the "normal" suspension mode, and turning off the PSM. Turning off the PSM is not such a big deal, but having to run in the "soft" mode of the suspension setup really sucks. (NOTE: running with the PSM off: I am an experienced HPDE instructor/coach and can handle the car just fine w/o mother computer's help)
I found that I spent over a year chasing "problems" with the car when I pushed to anything over about 70% on track: Traction control, tire size issues, steering sensor, engine management issues... All related to a defective MAF!
I think I could have run the NT01s just fine. That being said, I have now spent two or three full track days (Thunderhill and Buttonwillow) with the R888's, and I think they work just fine. The feeling vs running NT01s (on my 987 boxster S) is that the side walls are a little stiffer, which works well with the 997.1 C2S, as the car is heavier with more power.
#79
Interesting that a bad MAF would mess with traction control and torque sense. The problem I see is that empirical data is inconsistent - some get limp mode, some get ice pedal, others have no apparent issue. Having tried the R888s for a couple of events, I personally prefer the NT01 but would still hesitate to run them in the rear. For me it's a double whammy given all-wheel drive and extra diffs to boot. I'll be back to the 01/555RII combo once the Toyos are cooked.
#80
My manifestations were always Limp Mode, which was frustrating, and could have been dangerous at speed in traffic.
Alex at the Sharkwerks was the one to solve the issue with my car.
I had called Sharkwerks soliciting input, as I began to realize that there must be one problem that was throwing me all these different Limp Mode codes on a relatively stock 911S.
Alex called me back and said that he talked to his sources and they suggested the MAF replacement. He said: "come get the MAF, put it in the car, track the car, and if it is OK, then pay for the part" What great support from them!
Alex at the Sharkwerks was the one to solve the issue with my car.
I had called Sharkwerks soliciting input, as I began to realize that there must be one problem that was throwing me all these different Limp Mode codes on a relatively stock 911S.
Alex called me back and said that he talked to his sources and they suggested the MAF replacement. He said: "come get the MAF, put it in the car, track the car, and if it is OK, then pay for the part" What great support from them!
#82
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