I've got a fully functional rear spoiler system but would like to keep to the wing in the down position and keep it from raising. I also do not want any warning lights as a result of this. I have a RUF wing and it looks a bit of an overkill in the up position. In the down position, it is semi raised anyway. I would like an easy enough fix that would be reversible to where I could make the system active fairly easily (for track days maybe). I've done the disconnect of the two microswitches in the passenger side ram and that did the trick - spoiler stays down and NO warning lights. Seems like a perfect solution since I can just plug the microswitches back in very easily. However, based on what another member here had told me from his experience, I'm not sure that the electric motor is deactivated (I'm almost positive that it's still powered). In other words, is there a chance that the electric motor could activate and burn itself out since the microswitches (limit switches) are no longer installed? For example, the motor would for some reason get a signal to try to lower the spoiler but since the spoiler is already down it would keep running since there is no microswitch to tell it to stop. I haven't tried to disconnect the connector (power) going to the spoiler motor but I believe that would trigger the warning light. Anyone have any solid ideas here or a good understanding of the workings of the microswitches? Why is it that with the microswitches out there is no warning light? I remember a while back there was a thread here where the poster had disassembled the system and went into the working if the microswitches in detail but I can't for the life of me find it.

Finally, what about plugging in the 996tt aero harness? IS THERE ANY WIRING INVOLVED or is it just a simple harness that plugs in between the existing harness/connector? Would that be a better way to keep the wing disabled without a chance of burning out the motor? Thanks...

 

You can unplug the motor cables, I ran my fixed wing with OE TT harness, just unplug and drive (with switches removed just like yu've done), just don't touch the wing switch in the dash, then you will get wing failure light (I recommend pop the switch out, disconnect the connector behind it and pop it back), just in case someone with curious fingers pushes it before you have a chance to stop it from happening.

 

Ok thanks. So to make sure I understand it, unplugging the connector going to the spoiler motor in addition to having the two microswitches pulled will not trigger the failure light. The spoiler switch in the dash must also be disconnected otherwise it would trip the light if it was accidentally pressed.
What is the trick to popping the switch out of the dash? I don't want to damage anything.

 

Yep correct.

The "frame" around the stereo and fan outlets pop out - depending on year and style it's in 1 U-shape (upside down) or 3 separate pieces (left side, right side, and a top portion). Pry/pop the trim piece out with a plastic pry tool (there's supposed to be a special name for it). Plastic or wood butterknife will also do the trick w/o scrathing the paneling or interior. It usually pops out easy and when done pops/clicks back in with light pressure. GL!

 

Lets say you wanted your spoiler partially raised, could you bring it to your desired height and then do this process to stop if from moving from that desired height with out triggering any lights?

 

I'm not sure how long it would stay there. I believe then you raise the spoiler you are using hydraulic pressure to compress a pretty hefty spring inside the rams. I believe if the system had any king of a blowback or did not perfectly maintain pressure than the spring would drive the spoiler down as I believe that the spoiler is held in "down" position by the pressure of the spring. Anyone want to chime in?

 

Are you sure its not the motors them selves?

 

There are three ways the spoiler can fail and leave one side active and the other side stationary.

1 - Loss of hydraulic fluid in one ram. (broken seal)
2 - Broken ram compressor plate - see here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ifference.html
3 - Broken ram mount. (the other end)

There are no cables that can break and cause that type of failure.

If you disassemble your wing hardware, the problem will be totally evident. It takes about 10 minutes to remove the hardware (with a beer in one hand) and about 5 minutes to disassemble the actuator.