OMG John if you are replacing all three at the same time we will never kNow which one is at fault Obviously if you could not trigger the valve with the Durametric function this #14 is at fault....We went through a lot of research for this one, I'm happy for you John!!!

 

My plan is to install a new 6 and 7 since that will take 10minutes since its a matter of lugging them into the housing and bolting it back up behind the headlight. I'll clear all codes and start the car to see if that takes care of it. Again I doubt it. I will that lower the engine and swap out #14. That's my plan to definitively isolate it.

 

Good to know the ones in the wheel well are easy to replaced. I took out the fender liner once to look at them and take pictures but never remove them.... Lowering the engine is a must for this valve, it is really tight in there. Good luck!

 

evap purge valve on nonturbo 996 was/is a common failure item esp with higher miles. Symptoms outside of code was hard or no start when car was hot or just after fueling

 

Well, mystery solved JP. The problem apparently is not the valve by the engine but the simple fact that the wiring was somehow severed right at the connector. It's really bizarre how this could have happened especially considering the simple fact that BOTH wires are broken cleanly off. It's in an area of the engine that is not accessible (unless you partially drop the engine) where someone could have tugged on it by accident. I could think that vibration may have caused it but for both to be broken off is simply weird. Makes no sense whatsoever...

Looks like I'm just going to fix the wiring and call it a day..


[url=https://flic.kr/p/T66ap3]

 

Anyone know the trick to disassembling the connector before I start experimenting? I'm sure the Germans have a clever way to release it somehow..

 

Ouch this is in fact the cause of your fault. Difficult to say what happen there.... I don't have experience with that type of plugs and don't know if they can be dismantle to swage new wires. In the wiring diagrams page 25 you got all the plugs and these are the two wires plugs.... The last one is close but not exactly the same.....

 

Hey JP,
Bosch makes a direct replacement to the factory connectors which are used all over the engine on all the emission stuff and also on the injectors. They come with dust boots and the required pins. You just need to have the correct crimping tool. Size 22-18 is what is used.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/TJDanJ]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/T3ceUq]

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One thing I found interesting, even after clearing the CEL, all my readiness monitors are immediately showing as "READY". I was under the impression that once you clear a CEL you would need to reset all monitors via the drive cycle but I don't show that to be the case. Strange..

 

Thanks for these valuable informations! I was not aware of this possibility....Very good to know!
Note: very nice pictures you got on flickr ;-)

 

My car used to return readiness like that too - it was the tune ;-)

 

Must be because even when I had a CEL due to the tank valve all the readiness monitors were showing PASS. So I guess I never have to worry about having to do the drive cycle.