997TT Won't Idle / Loss of Power
#1
997TT Won't Idle / Loss of Power
Ladies/gents,
Today I did my flash and everything went great. I took the car out a few times over the day and everything was fine.
Later in the day my mate stopped by with his Gallardo so we went for a spirited drive. I noticed mid power band loss of power then all of sudden a kick in the *** at the top end. First thought was clutch.
Few more pulls and it's getting worse, bucking through the rev range. I stop on a back road and now she won't even idle. Just dies out. So anyways I managed to get about 10km home through traffic without stopping (ask me how stressful that was.. and kind of entertaining) and started looking into it.
Throwing a code B1510 "Air mass (HFM) ahead of throttle valve - Implausable Signal". I should have thought of it before I limped home, but I went and disconnected the MAFs and she idles fine. So I'm guessing one or both of my MAFs are cooked.
It's likely coincidental that this arose right after my flash but I'm wondering if those with more knowledge than me could possibly link the two? I drive my car pretty hard and never had a problem till today. Additional boost pressure finally did them in? I don't know.
I haven't had a chance to talk to the tuner yet and I in no way want to point the blame on their tune. I'm just wondering if the increased power/boost could have accelerated the MAF death?
Cheers gents.
Today I did my flash and everything went great. I took the car out a few times over the day and everything was fine.
Later in the day my mate stopped by with his Gallardo so we went for a spirited drive. I noticed mid power band loss of power then all of sudden a kick in the *** at the top end. First thought was clutch.
Few more pulls and it's getting worse, bucking through the rev range. I stop on a back road and now she won't even idle. Just dies out. So anyways I managed to get about 10km home through traffic without stopping (ask me how stressful that was.. and kind of entertaining) and started looking into it.
Throwing a code B1510 "Air mass (HFM) ahead of throttle valve - Implausable Signal". I should have thought of it before I limped home, but I went and disconnected the MAFs and she idles fine. So I'm guessing one or both of my MAFs are cooked.
It's likely coincidental that this arose right after my flash but I'm wondering if those with more knowledge than me could possibly link the two? I drive my car pretty hard and never had a problem till today. Additional boost pressure finally did them in? I don't know.
I haven't had a chance to talk to the tuner yet and I in no way want to point the blame on their tune. I'm just wondering if the increased power/boost could have accelerated the MAF death?
Cheers gents.
Last edited by AuZZie; 05-29-2014 at 08:38 AM.
#4
Would a popped off hose still make sense now it idles perfectly fine with the MAFs disconnected? I'm thinking yes as the MAF isn't trying to make corrections with a boost leak.
Unfortunately unless I can reach it through the deck lid I won't be taking a look for a few days. I pulled my back yesterday and I'm in cripple mode right now.
Appreciate your guys input.
Unfortunately unless I can reach it through the deck lid I won't be taking a look for a few days. I pulled my back yesterday and I'm in cripple mode right now.
Appreciate your guys input.
#5
Yea I agree, you popped a boost hose either at the intercooler or at the plenum right on top of the motor. Same thing happened to me when I installed my exhaust, the intercooler coupler didn't seat completely and the first time it boosted hard I got the same thing.
#6
Naturally I went straight into thinking the worst. I was thinking VTG actuator rod stuck or something since it's so common. Popped coupler or hose is a much easier fix (depending on accessibility) and makes sense based on your guys input.
Does anyone have any tips for where to look for the vac leak and how to access it? Bit of a rats nest in there. I can't seem to find the T near the throttle body that you blokes mentioned.
Does anyone have any tips for where to look for the vac leak and how to access it? Bit of a rats nest in there. I can't seem to find the T near the throttle body that you blokes mentioned.
Last edited by AuZZie; 05-29-2014 at 11:29 AM.
#7
Naturally I went straight into thinking the worst. I was thinking VTG actuator rod stuck or something since it's so common. Popped coupler or hose is a much easier fix (depending on accessibility) and makes sense based on your guys input.
Does anyone have any tips for where to look for the vac leak and how to access it? Bit of a rats nest in there.
Does anyone have any tips for where to look for the vac leak and how to access it? Bit of a rats nest in there.
With regard to your MAF's, they can fail and cause the problems you describe. A voltage test would be the first step to determine if they remain in spec but even if they are one or both could be in the process of failing which can make this an intermittent problem that's very hard to track down. I chased a similar problem around for months before finally deciding to replace the MAF's after exhausting all other likely culprits and, voila, it worked. However, it was a $1500 gamble and not one that should be undertaken until all other avenues have been tried. You do not want to use aftermarket parts, rebuilt MAF's etc. as they can cause as many problems as they solve. I'm not religious about using oem replacement parts but in the case of MAF's, that's the only way to go as they are specifically calibrated for model year and Porsche variant.
There are probably quite a few other possibilities that a good diagnostician in a good shop would also consider and test for. Hopefully your situation is not anymore complicated than a loose host clamp but if it is, well, just be prepared. Good luck!
Last edited by Steamboat; 05-29-2014 at 11:53 AM.
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#8
Appreciate your blokes input. Steamboat, I came across one of your old threads while searching. Looks like you speak from first hand experience.
Fortunately for me it was a simple fix. I took my gibbled *** to the garage as I couldn't sit around not knowing. I blew the drivers side intercooler piping off. Removed the wheel, fender liner and bolted her backup. Cleared codes. All good.
I am wondering if this is going to happen again though. The clamp on that hose looks a little weird. Is there an aftermarket solution most people switch to avoid issues with higher boost?
Cheers
Fortunately for me it was a simple fix. I took my gibbled *** to the garage as I couldn't sit around not knowing. I blew the drivers side intercooler piping off. Removed the wheel, fender liner and bolted her backup. Cleared codes. All good.
I am wondering if this is going to happen again though. The clamp on that hose looks a little weird. Is there an aftermarket solution most people switch to avoid issues with higher boost?
Cheers
#9
Appreciate your blokes input. Steamboat, I came across one of your old threads while searching. Looks like you speak from first hand experience.
Fortunately for me it was a simple fix. I took my gibbled *** to the garage as I couldn't sit around not knowing. I blew the drivers side intercooler piping off. Removed the wheel, fender liner and bolted her backup. Cleared codes. All good.
I am wondering if this is going to happen again though. The clamp on that hose looks a little weird. Is there an aftermarket solution most people switch to avoid issues with higher boost?
Cheers
Fortunately for me it was a simple fix. I took my gibbled *** to the garage as I couldn't sit around not knowing. I blew the drivers side intercooler piping off. Removed the wheel, fender liner and bolted her backup. Cleared codes. All good.
I am wondering if this is going to happen again though. The clamp on that hose looks a little weird. Is there an aftermarket solution most people switch to avoid issues with higher boost?
Cheers
When I was chasing the leak monster we replaced the standard hose clamps and installed T-clamps wherever they would fit and wherever we could reach without dropping the motor. Not sure if that's necessary but by then we were running out of more conventional ideas. Also, Evoms makes a (very expensive, imo) "leak proof" throttle body conversion kit that connects the Y-pipe with an 82 mm throttle body which is often the source of boost leaks but I don't have any personal experience with it. Have a great and leak-free summer!
PS Glad your story had a happy ending!
#10
t clamps the way to go, but only replace those that fail....luckily (knock on wood) ive only blown the throttle body hose as that's weak as hell and replaced with IPD plenum and their hose / clamp which is much nicer than stock!
#12
Appreciate your blokes input. Steamboat, I came across one of your old threads while searching. Looks like you speak from first hand experience.
Fortunately for me it was a simple fix. I took my gibbled *** to the garage as I couldn't sit around not knowing. I blew the drivers side intercooler piping off. Removed the wheel, fender liner and bolted her backup. Cleared codes. All good.
I am wondering if this is going to happen again though. The clamp on that hose looks a little weird. Is there an aftermarket solution most people switch to avoid issues with higher boost?
Cheers
Fortunately for me it was a simple fix. I took my gibbled *** to the garage as I couldn't sit around not knowing. I blew the drivers side intercooler piping off. Removed the wheel, fender liner and bolted her backup. Cleared codes. All good.
I am wondering if this is going to happen again though. The clamp on that hose looks a little weird. Is there an aftermarket solution most people switch to avoid issues with higher boost?
Cheers
How to reinforce the existing clamps without going the whole piping replacement ( and getting the 997.2 inter-coolers, which I want to do too)
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