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Need advice on buying Porsche 911 SC vs 3.2 vs 964

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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 07:56 PM
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Need advice on buying Porsche 911 SC vs 3.2 vs 964

Hi there, I'm looking to get in my first Porsche. I've been looking at classic Porsches for a while now. I love the look of the early to mid 60's 356/912's but I've decided to go for an 80's model for the driving experience.
I would love some advice on how/where to start, and what to look for, as well as the large pluses and minuses to each model. I would love one ideal that I can tinker with and make my on, that will be cheaper to maintain, and of course fun to drive. I'm leaning toward a 3.2 but I think I might end up with an SC due to budget.
I really am serious about making a purchase soon and would love to hear from the Porsche enthusiast world.
Also if anyone has advice on great places to get a PPI from I'd love to hear that. I'm in SoCal but really anywhere is good. I'm looking all over the country anyway.
Thanks
 
Old Aug 7, 2015 | 12:50 AM
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"Buy the most expensive Porsche you could afford!" - this is the number one rule.

My personal advice for you based on your post:
Try to get the 3.2 -

With the SC (which I have a cabriolet), you will need to deal with the CIS fuel injection. With the 3.2, you don't.

Nothing is wrong with the 3.0 (SC) It is considered the most bulletproof Porsche engine. I've had mine for over 20 years and I just do the regular tune-up, brakes, clutch, etc.

If you haven't joined Pelicanparts, do so and post the same question. There you will find hardcore grease monkeys. As a matter of fact, 90% of what I know came from members (suspension, engine drop, tranny rebuilding, engine rebuilding, etc. )

There were rumors about the 964, but I never owned one so I'll stick with what I know.

If you are pursuing the SC line, try to get the '83 for its the last year of the SC and most issues have been ironed out by that year.

Good luck!
 
Old Oct 14, 2015 | 06:55 PM
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I have had a 911 SC for 30 years and I also have a 996 Turbo. They are very different I love driving them both and I alternate driving them. I agree spend as much as you can just don't get a model that you need to worry about the IMS bearing and catastrophic engine failure for your first Porsche. There is a lot of literature on the topic. The price of the 964 has skyrocketed. Read as much as you can about the model you plan on getting. PCA is a good source for technical questions but you have to be a member. Good luck.
 
Old Oct 15, 2015 | 02:14 PM
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I've heard that you don't have to change the oil on a 964 because you add so much to replace what leaks out you always have clean oil.
 
Old Oct 15, 2015 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Upier
I've heard that you don't have to change the oil on a 964 because you add so much to replace what leaks out you always have clean oil.


I think with the newer sealant formulations, newer gaskets, runners, etc., the dreaded history of leaky 911's is long gone from most people memories.

Not a 964, but my SC started to leak a drop or two after about 200,000 miles. No joke!
 
Old Nov 28, 2015 | 11:51 AM
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Agreed with what every one has said. I have a restored 72k mile mint 1978 sc, 1983 sc backdate project and a modded 2001 996tt. Love them all differently but if I was to suggest one then get the best you can afford up front. Probably 964 since its the newest of your choices and will be the best performer. My personal rule is never buy a car that needs both cosmetic and mechanical repairs. Also keep in mind no 20-40 year old used air-cooled Porsche will be perfect either so budget for some minor repairs a least - unless you pay a premium for a fully restored car.
 
Old Jan 11, 2016 | 04:22 AM
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I'm looking at a 1999 911 Carrera with 66,000 on it. Checking the CarFax it says the engine was replaced at 15,000 miles 6 years after purchase. Should I stay far away or investigate further?
 
Old Jan 11, 2016 | 03:50 PM
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If you can, I'd stay away from the non-turbo 996. Search for IMS bearing failures. It's a known problem on the non-turbo 996. The 996TT has the Mezger engines which does not have those issues. Or stick with the older air-cooled Porsches.
 

Last edited by fortun3; Jan 11, 2016 at 04:13 PM.
Old Jan 19, 2016 | 11:22 AM
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What do you plan on using the car for, weekend warrior, every day, put kids in it, those are some of the questions you should ask yourself. Then go drive each one of the models and see what you like best, they are all different.
 
Old Jan 19, 2016 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Nivin Pauly
I'm looking at a 1999 911 Carrera with 66,000 on it. Checking the CarFax it says the engine was replaced at 15,000 miles 6 years after purchase. Should I stay far away or investigate further?
Well, it depends on who rebuilt and installed the engine.

For reference, my 1983 SC's engine was rebuilt by a Porsche trained head mechanic and it has been perfect for the last 20 years.
 
Old Oct 12, 2016 | 05:17 PM
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Have had multiple cars of both models

Love the 3.2 motor and if you can find a 911 in 1987 or 88 that you like seriously consider those two years. The G 50 tranny was a nice upgade. As for the 964, look at 92 and above. The older models had some factory issues even though they "should" have been fixed. Believe it or not a C2 still may have a factory recall out there as I just found out that mine did after I pulled the carfax. A free trip to the Porsche dealer and that almost never happens!! lol
Make sure you locate the most well respected porsche shop you can find in your area or the area where you are buying and have a full pre purchase inspection completed. Good luck!
 
Old Dec 9, 2016 | 03:35 AM
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I am also new here. First post. Looking at a 1975 911S. What should I look out for? I hear there maybe issues with the valve stem guides and head studs? Thanks.
 
Old Jan 19, 2017 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nextjato
I am also new here. First post. Looking at a 1975 911S. What should I look out for? I hear there maybe issues with the valve stem guides and head studs? Thanks.
If you're in the US a lot of the problems that happen to a 2.7 were because of the thermal reactors and the extra heat would cause the head stud and valve guide issues. Saying that, almost every 2.7 has these removed. Valve stem guides are fairly easy to diagnose as the engine will smoke on decelleration. Unfortunately, the head stud issue can be hard to diagnose. I've seen cars that have been driving around for years with a broken stud and you wouldn't know it until you pull the valve cover and half a stud falls out. The 2.7 from 75 isn't a horrible engine, it just had some design flaws. The head studs can be changed with ones of different material that mimics the heat cycle of magnesium so they don't break. Once the issues have been taken care of the 2.7 is a fun little engine that loves to be rev'd. It really comes alive over 3000 RPM.
 
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