Best uprated brakes for 996 tt
New Brakes
I ordered the 6 pot GT3 front system, along with F/R
PAGID RS 4-2-1 (black) pads. These were recommended by the
PAGID rep for aggressive street & occasional light track.
Also, Steve @ Suncoast threw in a set of GT3 997 air ducts that can be
retrofitted to the 996TT.
I went with the GT3 kit, mainly because of the large pad selection
and the overall engineering of the system. Replacement rotors are $200
and OE yellow pads are $255 thru Suncoast Porsche.
They should be in next week and I will share the results.
GT3 6 pot kit $2561.00
exchanged pads 4-2-1 for yellows $100.00
SS brake lines $130.00
Brake fluid $ 9.95
Pagid 4-2-1 rear $138.95 (free shipping)
997 GT3 front air ducts NC
____________
$2939.90
shipping 78.10
____________
total $3018.00
PAGID RS 4-2-1 (black) pads. These were recommended by the
PAGID rep for aggressive street & occasional light track.
Also, Steve @ Suncoast threw in a set of GT3 997 air ducts that can be
retrofitted to the 996TT.
I went with the GT3 kit, mainly because of the large pad selection
and the overall engineering of the system. Replacement rotors are $200
and OE yellow pads are $255 thru Suncoast Porsche.
They should be in next week and I will share the results.
GT3 6 pot kit $2561.00
exchanged pads 4-2-1 for yellows $100.00
SS brake lines $130.00
Brake fluid $ 9.95
Pagid 4-2-1 rear $138.95 (free shipping)
997 GT3 front air ducts NC
____________
$2939.90
shipping 78.10
____________
total $3018.00
Last edited by silvershark; Dec 19, 2007 at 05:18 AM. Reason: alignment
I've spent the last couple days on the phone with several on this board, several race shops, and the consensus is that doing the fronts without upgrading the rears is a HUGE issue that does nothing to aid in staving off consumables. The porsche brake system is heavy bias towards the front, which is why we're eating front pads and rotors so much. While upgrading the fronts helps stave off heat and keep the car stopping properly, the front pad/rotor lifespan still is an issue. Supposedly going to the rear larger setup as well helps "balance and staves off the stress put on the front components.
So it looks like I'll be waiting until I can move to doing both front and rears. My car stops well for the most part, but consumes lots of pad/rotor in the process, and I'm bleeding fluid before every weekend I track. Guess it is what it is until I upgrade the full 4 corner system...
Mike
So it looks like I'll be waiting until I can move to doing both front and rears. My car stops well for the most part, but consumes lots of pad/rotor in the process, and I'm bleeding fluid before every weekend I track. Guess it is what it is until I upgrade the full 4 corner system...
Mike
Mike,
Call Gary at Race Technologies (Brembo USA). You can completely use the upgraded 6piston monoblock with the factory rear kit. 75% of the braking or more is done up front, so upgrading the rear pads and steel braided lines is sufficient. Alot of my customers have done this already. Al, Marty, and a couple others. I believe you will find completely with the correct slotted rotors and pad choice, you will have much life on your brakes event after event. I have yet to see any of my track guys chew a Brembo rotor.
BTW we just added these new brake ducts -
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/b...d=8&class_8=38
Call Gary at Race Technologies (Brembo USA). You can completely use the upgraded 6piston monoblock with the factory rear kit. 75% of the braking or more is done up front, so upgrading the rear pads and steel braided lines is sufficient. Alot of my customers have done this already. Al, Marty, and a couple others. I believe you will find completely with the correct slotted rotors and pad choice, you will have much life on your brakes event after event. I have yet to see any of my track guys chew a Brembo rotor.
BTW we just added these new brake ducts -
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/b...d=8&class_8=38
I've spent the last couple days on the phone with several on this board, several race shops, and the consensus is that doing the fronts without upgrading the rears is a HUGE issue that does nothing to aid in staving off consumables. The porsche brake system is heavy bias towards the front, which is why we're eating front pads and rotors so much. While upgrading the fronts helps stave off heat and keep the car stopping properly, the front pad/rotor lifespan still is an issue. Supposedly going to the rear larger setup as well helps "balance and staves off the stress put on the front components.
So it looks like I'll be waiting until I can move to doing both front and rears. My car stops well for the most part, but consumes lots of pad/rotor in the process, and I'm bleeding fluid before every weekend I track. Guess it is what it is until I upgrade the full 4 corner system...
Mike
So it looks like I'll be waiting until I can move to doing both front and rears. My car stops well for the most part, but consumes lots of pad/rotor in the process, and I'm bleeding fluid before every weekend I track. Guess it is what it is until I upgrade the full 4 corner system...
Mike
I am going with the fronts and plan on doing the rear a little later.
Another factor possibly entering into the front vs. front & rear brake upgrade may be this. Porsche comes from the factory with a pre-set front/rear bias designed into their system. It is based on a certain range of front end and rear end weight. I suspect this is a fairly broad range of weight possibilities, i.e. 200 lbs. in the luggage compartment and 250 lb. occupants vs. a single 100 lb person.
Many of us have removed weight from our cars and one of the easiest places to lose it is in the front with tire and associated items (-almost 40 lbs) and battery swap (- from 20 to 40 or so lbs.). Some even remove the front bumper support (- around 15 lbs).
In and of itself, this slightly changes the weights Porsche intended for their bias determinations. This changes the effective total weight pushing down on each of the 4 tires as the weight transfer takes place during the varying amounts of braking torque that is being generated. In removing weight from the front of the car, doesn't this create less work for the front brakes when it comes time to slow down.
I think it all gets experimental at the point we begin to do something even so simple as running Pagid Oranges on the front and Black on the rear.
In my estimation, the key is for us to draw upon the knowledge of those who have gone before us with these types of modifications. From all I could determine after talking to 2 different race shops, was that it was fine for me to put the 355 slotted Brembos in front with the 6-piston monoblocs while leaving the rear assembly stock. I'm told that when the brakes go off, it's usually the front ones doing so and that is what I am trying to prevent.
Many of us have removed weight from our cars and one of the easiest places to lose it is in the front with tire and associated items (-almost 40 lbs) and battery swap (- from 20 to 40 or so lbs.). Some even remove the front bumper support (- around 15 lbs).
In and of itself, this slightly changes the weights Porsche intended for their bias determinations. This changes the effective total weight pushing down on each of the 4 tires as the weight transfer takes place during the varying amounts of braking torque that is being generated. In removing weight from the front of the car, doesn't this create less work for the front brakes when it comes time to slow down.
I think it all gets experimental at the point we begin to do something even so simple as running Pagid Oranges on the front and Black on the rear.
In my estimation, the key is for us to draw upon the knowledge of those who have gone before us with these types of modifications. From all I could determine after talking to 2 different race shops, was that it was fine for me to put the 355 slotted Brembos in front with the 6-piston monoblocs while leaving the rear assembly stock. I'm told that when the brakes go off, it's usually the front ones doing so and that is what I am trying to prevent.
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