Forge DV Initial Setup, How To?
Hello all, I bought a set of Forge DV's from Vivid and Forge does not provide information for the set of these valves. Inside the box are two or three shims and two additional color coded springs.
What is the philosophy for setting up the DV’s? My understanding is that these devices come into play when the throttle is closed at high boost and the dynamic air charge from the compressor section of the turbocharger needs to be relieved. Otherwise the pressure will spike stall the compressor or possibly burst a hose. Currently I have K16 turbochargers and a EP2 Exhaust. I plan to change them out to K16/K24’s. If I setup the boost limit to 1.0bar using a software, where do I want the DV’s to crack (open). I was thinking that I should have one crack at 1.1bar and the second crack at 1.2bar.
I emailed Forge and Vivid on this subject and have not received a response as yet.
Any thoughts?
What is the philosophy for setting up the DV’s? My understanding is that these devices come into play when the throttle is closed at high boost and the dynamic air charge from the compressor section of the turbocharger needs to be relieved. Otherwise the pressure will spike stall the compressor or possibly burst a hose. Currently I have K16 turbochargers and a EP2 Exhaust. I plan to change them out to K16/K24’s. If I setup the boost limit to 1.0bar using a software, where do I want the DV’s to crack (open). I was thinking that I should have one crack at 1.1bar and the second crack at 1.2bar.
I emailed Forge and Vivid on this subject and have not received a response as yet.
Any thoughts?
Keith,
Did not see an email? Weird... Run the springs that came in the valve. That is what I always do for the K16 or even the K24 cars. I even have those springs in my 650 Kit setup. The other springs are very soft and 1 is very stiff. That valve is the same type of valve used on the 1.8T Audi and VW, so running less boost could be needed for the other springs. I have yet to have a boost leak issue with the Forge valves using the springs that come with it. As far as where the DV's should "crack", I think you have that confused with a wastegate? maybe... You want those valves to hold the boost all the way till you let off the gas. If the spring is to stiff or you have a sequential operation which i have never seen or tried, you might get some boost creep. You know the number if you have any questions!
Did not see an email? Weird... Run the springs that came in the valve. That is what I always do for the K16 or even the K24 cars. I even have those springs in my 650 Kit setup. The other springs are very soft and 1 is very stiff. That valve is the same type of valve used on the 1.8T Audi and VW, so running less boost could be needed for the other springs. I have yet to have a boost leak issue with the Forge valves using the springs that come with it. As far as where the DV's should "crack", I think you have that confused with a wastegate? maybe... You want those valves to hold the boost all the way till you let off the gas. If the spring is to stiff or you have a sequential operation which i have never seen or tried, you might get some boost creep. You know the number if you have any questions!
TMK the diverter valve dumps the charge-air back into the air intake system keeping external noise to a minimum. This increases both quicker throttle response and higher clamping load to maintain boost pressure more reliably. The item you speak of is called the wastegate...this is the part that opens to release excess pressure (and what most of us upgrade to achieve/maintain higher boost because the stock spring releases pressure too soon). Back to the DVs... The correct color spring is dependent on your tune and set-up.
Kevin, you are so kind, you must sell alot of Forge products...
Keith, you can take my advice or if you need back up based on Forge recommendations, read here - http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMDVTUN
Keith, you can take my advice or if you need back up based on Forge recommendations, read here - http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMDVTUN
Thanks everyone. Hang with me a little further, and please correct me if I am wrong.
· ECU controls fuel and ignition map, and rpm limiter. (OEM Value 6,750 rpm)
· The Wastegate actuators control the max boost (OEM Value .6-.7bar)
· DV's dump excess upper deck air back into the system in front of the turbocharger. (OEM Value 1.0bar)
My point is that the OEM DV’s are set .3 to .4 bar above the normal OEM maximum setting or MEOP. (Maximum Expected Operating Pressure)
So if I target my MEOP to 1.0bar by installing the X50 actuator springs, update the ECU map with one of the software packages, and set the DV’s at 1.2bar, or maybe lead one of them at 1.1 and have the second one come in at 1.2bar, would that be a good setup?
· ECU controls fuel and ignition map, and rpm limiter. (OEM Value 6,750 rpm)
· The Wastegate actuators control the max boost (OEM Value .6-.7bar)
· DV's dump excess upper deck air back into the system in front of the turbocharger. (OEM Value 1.0bar)
My point is that the OEM DV’s are set .3 to .4 bar above the normal OEM maximum setting or MEOP. (Maximum Expected Operating Pressure)
So if I target my MEOP to 1.0bar by installing the X50 actuator springs, update the ECU map with one of the software packages, and set the DV’s at 1.2bar, or maybe lead one of them at 1.1 and have the second one come in at 1.2bar, would that be a good setup?
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Thanks Kevin, Ahhh, I see; I was thinking that valve opened as a result of the force of the valve itself and that the small line was part of some dual action on the DV. So it is the vacuum from the engine when the throttle is closed that opens the DV's. All the aircraft turbocharger systems that I have worked on don't deal with shifting... Pop! Did you hear that, it was head being pulled out of my &$$.
Thanks Again to all and Merry Christmas!
Thanks Again to all and Merry Christmas!
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