Clutch problem: 1st gear, clutch all the way to the floor but not totally engaged.
Clutch problem: 1st gear, clutch all the way to the floor but not totally engaged.
Just got a brand new clutch and linkage a few weeks ago. Put about 700 miles on it since then, it's been great.
I started noticing, after I drive for a 10 to 20 yards with the clutch all the way out, in 1st gear, then when I engage the clutch and come to a complete stop it still learches slightly forward (as if the clutch is let slightly out and its grabbing gears). I really have to pull it hard to get it out of 1st, then I put it back in 1st and it's fully engaged and working fine. It only does this sometimes. It think it may do this in reverse, also.
The weather is sub 30 degrees farenheight.
Any ideas?
One more thing. It takes me 4 or 5 times (of driving 10 - 30 yard and stopping) for it to actually get it to do this.
I started noticing, after I drive for a 10 to 20 yards with the clutch all the way out, in 1st gear, then when I engage the clutch and come to a complete stop it still learches slightly forward (as if the clutch is let slightly out and its grabbing gears). I really have to pull it hard to get it out of 1st, then I put it back in 1st and it's fully engaged and working fine. It only does this sometimes. It think it may do this in reverse, also.
The weather is sub 30 degrees farenheight.
Any ideas?
One more thing. It takes me 4 or 5 times (of driving 10 - 30 yard and stopping) for it to actually get it to do this.
Last edited by arr0gant; Feb 20, 2008 at 02:07 PM.
I had this exact situation in my stock M3. The clutch would not disengage fully and "drag". The result is a burned clutch/flywheel that looks a LOT like abuse when you take it apart.
It took me months to convince BMW that their $hit was defective and got a warranty repair. The syncros never fully recovered from having to force the gears with the clutch fully depressed. It was at its worst when trying to engage first from a dead stop.
Barring a condition caused by the super low temps, I would not drive the car and get the issue fixed immediately.
It took me months to convince BMW that their $hit was defective and got a warranty repair. The syncros never fully recovered from having to force the gears with the clutch fully depressed. It was at its worst when trying to engage first from a dead stop.
Barring a condition caused by the super low temps, I would not drive the car and get the issue fixed immediately.
if the pedal drops you probably have a leak... check ur car underneath....
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
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I actually meant the master cylinder could be leaking, which is in the footwell area at the top of the clutch pedal. The slave is on the top of the transmission...reached from under the car. So you could look for fluid in the upper footwell area or under the car. It only takes a tiny leak to cause problems - a leak so small that you may not see dripping fluid very easily...
Did they put in a new slave or master? If so, it could be bad or maybe the system requires a bleed. I guess it could be other issues with the install, too...
Last edited by John D; Feb 21, 2008 at 09:57 AM.
Do Porsches have an adjustable clutch pedal? You might have to adjust the clutch. I had a problem like that when i first put in my twin disk clutch. I had to adjust the clutch pedal for it to engage right





