996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Clutch Stop - Anyone made one? How to trick clutch ignition switch?

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Old 03-02-2008, 11:45 AM
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Clutch Stop - Anyone made one? How to trick clutch ignition switch?

I upgraded my clutch recently and now the clutch is VERY high, its probably in the top inch of the clutch pedal. Its a little annoying to just press the clutch such a small amount and not feel a slight follow through so I would just make a clutch stop. Very easy to make and cheap. Using a solid piece of rubber cut with the right amount of thickness you basically attach it to floor area of the clutch. Simple enough, making it look right in the car is at your own concession. Although I can make that, when I start up the car I won't be able to activate the clutch switch to actually turn the engine on.
So my question is how do I trick the clutch switch? Should I leave it pressed all the time? I'm not sure that's a good idea. So what solution could someone give me on that? I'd appreciate any help.
 
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:00 PM
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You can bypass the clutch switch by simply unplugging it and connecting a piece of wire between the two connectors to complete the circuit. Never leave your car parked in gear if you do that or else you will have issues down the road leading to front bumper damage.

Why is your pedal like this in the first place? Just because you upgraded does not mean your pedal should be doing what you have described. The first thing I would do is re-bleed the whole system at the dealer. I can not remember if the slave cylinder needs to be bleed with the scan tool or not. I know with brakes, to do it to Porsche’s spec it isn’t cut and dry.
 
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:45 PM
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A lot of aftermarket clutch kits are like this. Just something you have to live with. I thought about making a stop as well, but eventually got used to it.

Euro-spec cars do not have the clutch switch, maybe check out the wiring diagram to see how it's different so you can do the job cleanly.
 
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:19 PM
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Thanks for the info gentleman.
I was trying to avoid taking the switch out altogether or keeping it pressed because of safety... I'm sure if its not me it will be someone else who wants to start my car up or something and forget. I don't think its safe.
I will try re-bleeding but I'm not sure its going to do a whole lot.
I know most kits are like this, I can probably live with it but I'd prefer to feel a little more comfortable. I'm gonna check out the diagrams and see what I find, hopefully I can stick some kind of stop in soon.
 
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:01 PM
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For future reference, DYL and Jimmer, what clutch/pressure plate are you using that causes this high pedal-travel engagement?
 
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:23 PM
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Spec Stage 3+ clutch kit
 
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Old 03-04-2008, 09:19 PM
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So in my quest to make a clutch stop I ended up doing something a little more extreme but better functioning. The clutch pedal has a piece that actually connects to the clutch line that pulls it as your press the pedal right? So I modified that piece. The OEM one has the connection piece in a very tough green plastic. I cut it and welded a new piece that was about 1/2" shorter in metal. It works better, and it brought the clutch petal WAY down. Its a little bit less than half its total OEM travel length. If u look at my pedals the clutch is way further down then the brake. Some might say its extreme but the driving experience is much better now with the high engaging clutch. Now I didn't have to mess with the clutch switch that turns on the engine since it works exactly as before.
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DYL 911
So in my quest to make a clutch stop I ended up doing something a little more extreme but better functioning. The clutch pedal has a piece that actually connects to the clutch line that pulls it as your press the pedal right? So I modified that piece. The OEM one has the connection piece in a very tough green plastic. I cut it and welded a new piece that was about 1/2" shorter in metal. It works better, and it brought the clutch petal WAY down. Its a little bit less than half its total OEM travel length. If u look at my pedals the clutch is way further down then the brake. Some might say its extreme but the driving experience is much better now with the high engaging clutch. Now I didn't have to mess with the clutch switch that turns on the engine since it works exactly as before.
Can you post some pictures? Does it change the fulcrum point and thus make the release action any different? I have always been unhappy with the clutch pedal feel in this car (my only complaint about the car really).
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DYL 911
So in my quest to make a clutch stop I ended up doing something a little more extreme but better functioning. The clutch pedal has a piece that actually connects to the clutch line that pulls it as your press the pedal right? So I modified that piece. The OEM one has the connection piece in a very tough green plastic. I cut it and welded a new piece that was about 1/2" shorter in metal. It works better, and it brought the clutch petal WAY down. Its a little bit less than half its total OEM travel length. If u look at my pedals the clutch is way further down then the brake. Some might say its extreme but the driving experience is much better now with the high engaging clutch. Now I didn't have to mess with the clutch switch that turns on the engine since it works exactly as before.
Ooh, subscribed. Can you post some pics and a DIY of what you did? Like RoadsterDoc, I find that the clutch feel is really the only weak point in this car.
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:42 PM
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Pics or ban
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:23 PM
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For those of you that don't like the OEM clutch feel - you should consider the non-assisted clutch conversion. It feels very good with perfect feedback.
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:30 PM
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Hey John, are you referring to the " Removing the spring trick"?


Originally Posted by John D
For those of you that don't like the OEM clutch feel - you should consider the non-assisted clutch conversion. It feels very good with perfect feedback.
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:46 PM
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No, he means replacing the 996TT slave with the GT2 non-assisted slave. Not a simple thing to do, but certainly doable by any competent mechanic. Tranny has to come out. Various parts are involved. There are multiple threads about it. Before you go for such a conversion I recommend driving a GT2 and see if you like the feel.
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 06:08 PM
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here is a quick diagram that can maybe explain this a little clearer. if u need a better explanation i can try and write it for u but its pretty straightforward. u need to fabricate a piece that will make the link shorter for the clutch to be lower.

AFTER: the pedal will feel better because u will be able to make a clean follow through to the floor. When having an aftermarket performance clutch the engagement is very tight (within a cm) and very high making ur foot hang fully in the air with no sense of support. The actual engagement of the clutch has not really changed but its WAY easier to gauge the engagement of it making for a more pleasurable drive since u can predict and measure the engagement much easier. I would probably not make this modification if I had a stock clutch.


 
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:33 PM
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Thanks for the diagram. If it is a plastic shaft that you broke off, how did you weld a metal one back in its place?

Also, if the diagram is accurate, the oem link has a turnbuckle at the end that is attached to the pedal. If so, is there room to adjust it?
 


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