Yup, GT3 control arms are a must unless you have a "real" camber plate that is adjustable like the JICs...

I'm running every shim sent to me by Steve at Suncoast just to get that as well...that is the 1MM,2MM,3MM & 7MM shims...All of them. When I install the upper monoball mounts I'll be using them ONLY to get the rubber out and allow for proper alignment in the strut/tower.

Mike

 

yes, thank you.

 

Thanks Dan. My question about these is why they need to be different for AWD cars - even though the strut angle is different. Since the ball-bearing in the monoball center accomodates different angles, wouldn't one camber plate be sufficient to cover the slight difference in strut angle between the 2WD cars and the AWD cars?

Regarding the lack of negative camber with the Evoms/Mode strut tops... it looks like they mount in only 1 orientation subratcing 1 degree from the previous camber setting, unlike the TRG (or OEM GT3) strut tops which can be reversed. TRG claims the camber change goes from 1 deg (more negative than stock) to 5 degrees more negative, when turning the strut top around. But, at $700 vs the aprox $300 cost for OEM GT3 monoball (2-position adjustable) strut tops, there must be a very significant performance gain to justify that price.

So, it would be good to know if OEM GT3 monoballs work, or can be modified in some way to work on our cars, if the AWD strut angle is too great for the bearing in stock form.

 

subscribed...great info!

 

I had the GT-3 front lower control arms installed yesterday. I can go from a street setting of -0.8 deg camber, 0.04 deg toe to -2.1 deg camber, same toe by adding 14mm shims (7+3+2+2) on each side, and 7.5 full turns on tie rod end each side. That's all the shims that will fit on the studs.

I can get another 0.5 degrees negative camber by moving the strut tops, then I am about maxed out. I'll see how this works out at Road America next week.

I have a small issue with rubbing of the sway bar on either the axle or control arm that I hope to be able to tweak out this weekend when I have a little more time.

Jon

 

So I wonder what the difference is in your setup and mine? I have the 7MM, 3MM, 2MM and 1MM shims installed, and the upper mount at about the middle setting and I've got 2.9degrees negative camber up front.

Having those upper pillow ***** installed will certainly help! No bind, and using the "full" slotted mount slots in the upper tower...
Mike

 

I think Tom Kerr has -3 in front also... Could it be due the ride height difference?

 

The difference is that my car isn't quite "square" up front. I have a difference of about 5-8mm left to right on the strut towers, so I max out one side before the other.

Goes back to last year, when I spun coming out of a turn, and collected the guy behind me. His right rear corner directly on my nose at a slight angle.


Everything looks right, but I'm left with this offset. For those on the board who are removing the front bumper support in an effort to lose weight --- I recommend against it. I'm not sure how fast we were going at impact, but there were no injuries and that bumper support absorbed a lot of energy.

Before and after shots below. The color difference you see is the lighting - only the bumper and hood were replaced and sprayed.

Jon