Oh this has less to do with being displeased with the car and more to do with the fact that the car still is an "asset" and I have another vehicle I can use to have that fun with... A vehicle that has a fuel cell, full cage, and is purpose built.

Mike

 

Guys,

Thanks a lot for the help. It looks like I can solve the problem with an adjustable solid bushing from GMG, as Oak suggested. (Pic below) Talked to Fabryce about it today. It can be clocked to vary the camber. I'm going to hold off until I get back from Road America, then do something about this.

Anybody know if you can rotate the bushing in the OEM part?

Gotta get me some alignment tools. The trips to the alignment shop are killing me! Thanks Mike for the suggestions on that.

Jon

 

Since adding shims to the GT3 control arm effectively widens the track, you may be encountering the problems I had using GT2 offset wheels (which stick out 10mm wider per side, than stock.) I could not turn the wheels in the fender wheels without pushing the wheel liners. I have no idea why most Turbo owners have no clearance issues.

Do the different holes in that solid control arm bushing change caster?

 

I know what you mean. Trying to plan a dual purpose street/track car, without destroying it's value as a street car is tough! Especially with a finite budget. It's awesome that you have a track car to take up the slack.

If any of the suspension parts you just put on the Turbo are coming off in the near future... send me a PM! =)

 

Yes to everything. It does widen the track (tie rods go out almost as far as the shims), I don't know why most people don't have this problem, and the bushing allows you to change caster. By rotating the bushing appropriately, and using the offset hole, you "should" be able to move the wheel position enough to make everything clear. That's the theory anyway.

Unfortunately, I have already spent shedloads of money on stuff that "should" work, so I am being more cautious this time. The guy who helps me set up my car (also preps a GT3R race car) and I are are going to put this thing up on a rack and measure the whole car to see what's what and make sure that whatever we do is going to work.

Jon

 

I was nervous myself about changing castor just to fit the wheels... since driving feel, stability and a lot of dynamic changes, like camber, etc are so linked to castor. I went a weird route and moved the outside edges of my radiators forward an inch, as well as the wheelwell liner. Now, I can clear some aggressive front fitments. Pics and resolution in this thread:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...der-liner.html

 

yes, when you add shims to increase camber the caster is moved forward. by reclocking and rotating the bushing you can re set back to ideal castor angle.

 

Thanks for posting this thread. At least I now feel less alone!! And I know that there is a solution out there. I'll report back after I get the car measured up and decide where to go. I thought about using a heat gun and pushing the fender well back, but I can't see in to be able to tell how much clearance I have.

Jon