Erratic boost problem
Erratic boost problem
I was road testing my car after prepping it for the track next weekend. I found that I was getting just 0.5 bar under full throttle. After stopping 5 minutes for gas and restarting, boost was back up to 0.9. That was yesterday. Today, I was maxing out at 0.8 bar. I used to get 1.0 bar (with Upsolute flash).
Is this a symptom of bad diverter valves?
Thanks!
Jon
Is this a symptom of bad diverter valves?
Thanks!
Jon
You have a boost leak (.8 bar) that is likely causing limp mode (.5 bar) due to negative boost deviation.
Look over your car and pressure test. As a starting point, check your dv's and f hose.
Look over your car and pressure test. As a starting point, check your dv's and f hose.
Disconnect the maf by unclipping the harness and see if the car runs as good as before...if it does then its either a maf or an intake leak(boost leak).
No offense to your ECU but I would get soemthing else... you get what you pay for... trust me.
No offense to your ECU but I would get soemthing else... you get what you pay for... trust me.
__________________

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
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Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. Here's an update:
Drove around a bit this afternoon. At first it was making 0.8 bar boost, but after a couple of bursts, it settled back in at 0.5 bar.
Disconnected MAF and drove 3 ft before the PSM and ABS lights came on. Probably not the MAF. I do have one on order anyway.
I had a spare F-hose, so I replaced that. I found out why they call it the F-hose, and it's not because it is shaped like the 6th letter of the alphabet. No obvious leaks on the old one. Test drive makes a consistent 0.8 bar, and I saw a couple of higher spikes when shifting. Something is still wrong.
Ordered diverter valves from Dan at Vivid. Should be here tomorrow.
This car seems to just know when it's going to the track. It's always something.
Drove around a bit this afternoon. At first it was making 0.8 bar boost, but after a couple of bursts, it settled back in at 0.5 bar.
Disconnected MAF and drove 3 ft before the PSM and ABS lights came on. Probably not the MAF. I do have one on order anyway.
I had a spare F-hose, so I replaced that. I found out why they call it the F-hose, and it's not because it is shaped like the 6th letter of the alphabet. No obvious leaks on the old one. Test drive makes a consistent 0.8 bar, and I saw a couple of higher spikes when shifting. Something is still wrong.
Ordered diverter valves from Dan at Vivid. Should be here tomorrow.
This car seems to just know when it's going to the track. It's always something.
In my opinion, it could be a few things.... ecu freaking out.... leaking DVS... boost leak, something installed incorrectly, etc.,... but since you didn't have the issue BEFORE you did the install I'm assuming its something you did during the install...
__________________

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
Yes the lights will go on... but thats OK... let the idle settle down... and drive it part throttle... and as you look at the boost get on it a little harder... see if it holds 1 to 1.2 bars.... assuming you have the WGs springs at 1 bar. If you see anything over 1.3 bars let off.... blow up mode on pump gas.
In my opinion, it could be a few things.... ecu freaking out.... leaking DVS... boost leak, something installed incorrectly, etc.,... but since you didn't have the issue BEFORE you did the install I'm assuming its something you did during the install...
In my opinion, it could be a few things.... ecu freaking out.... leaking DVS... boost leak, something installed incorrectly, etc.,... but since you didn't have the issue BEFORE you did the install I'm assuming its something you did during the install...
This time try driving with the MAF disconnected and you may see a change. If you got one anyway you should still rule that out as they are not cheap. Everyone is on the right track. You have to check a bunch of stuff. It is almost always one of 4-5 things including the ecu.
How many miles on the car? How many on the plugs. Any codes. The dv's may do somthin...and check the hoses on the tops of the dv's while your in there. Next you can look at the boost cycling valve and connection and check valves.
How many miles on the car? How many on the plugs. Any codes. The dv's may do somthin...and check the hoses on the tops of the dv's while your in there. Next you can look at the boost cycling valve and connection and check valves.
I had the same problem,changed DV's and all ok.
About Upsolute,Markski is right,dump it as soon as possible.
I had also upsolute destroyed my exhaust valve,had a bent rod,costed me 10000 euro to repair.
I sended the upsolute flash to a German tuner to check it and he told me Upsolute raised all the knock parameters so computer didn't detect knock anymore.
I also sended the file to upsolute and they never answered me again..
About Upsolute,Markski is right,dump it as soon as possible.
I had also upsolute destroyed my exhaust valve,had a bent rod,costed me 10000 euro to repair.
I sended the upsolute flash to a German tuner to check it and he told me Upsolute raised all the knock parameters so computer didn't detect knock anymore.
I also sended the file to upsolute and they never answered me again..
Problem solved
Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions. It turned out to be the diverter valves. The more detailed version:
Took it to my independent mechanic who is really good, and willing to make time for me whenever I get these emergency issues just before I go to the track.
He found a code, I think it was 2408, Boost regulator problem. He smoke tested all the lines and found nothing. Vacuum check on the DV showed one would not hold vacuum. Dan at Vivid had shipped me overnight two new DV's and an F-hose. These were installed, and it now pulls like it did before. Makes 0.9-1.0 bar.
I disassembled the old one (a Bailey) and found the O-ring was crimped. That would've been a cheaper repair. I guess I'll get a new O-ring and keep them as spares.
As for the ECU - that's something to think about over the winter. I am not sure that I want to go much above 1.0 bar.
Thanks again to everyone for being so willing to help out!
Jon
Took it to my independent mechanic who is really good, and willing to make time for me whenever I get these emergency issues just before I go to the track.
He found a code, I think it was 2408, Boost regulator problem. He smoke tested all the lines and found nothing. Vacuum check on the DV showed one would not hold vacuum. Dan at Vivid had shipped me overnight two new DV's and an F-hose. These were installed, and it now pulls like it did before. Makes 0.9-1.0 bar.
I disassembled the old one (a Bailey) and found the O-ring was crimped. That would've been a cheaper repair. I guess I'll get a new O-ring and keep them as spares.
As for the ECU - that's something to think about over the winter. I am not sure that I want to go much above 1.0 bar.
Thanks again to everyone for being so willing to help out!
Jon
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