996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Erratic boost problem

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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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Erratic boost problem

I was road testing my car after prepping it for the track next weekend. I found that I was getting just 0.5 bar under full throttle. After stopping 5 minutes for gas and restarting, boost was back up to 0.9. That was yesterday. Today, I was maxing out at 0.8 bar. I used to get 1.0 bar (with Upsolute flash).

Is this a symptom of bad diverter valves?

Thanks!

Jon
 
Old Oct 21, 2008 | 07:26 AM
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Bump for a response. Anybody have any ideas???
 
Old Oct 21, 2008 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by FAST FWD
Bump for a response. Anybody have any ideas???
You have a boost leak (.8 bar) that is likely causing limp mode (.5 bar) due to negative boost deviation.

Look over your car and pressure test. As a starting point, check your dv's and f hose.
 
Old Oct 21, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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+1 ^

Also, try disconnecting your battery for about 5-10 minutes to reset everything. Start her back up and see if you get the same problems.
 
Old Oct 21, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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leak
 
Old Oct 21, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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Disconnect the maf by unclipping the harness and see if the car runs as good as before...if it does then its either a maf or an intake leak(boost leak).
No offense to your ECU but I would get soemthing else... you get what you pay for... trust me.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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My car did the same thing around 50K. I replaced the Diverter Valves - problem solved!
 
Old Oct 21, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. Here's an update:

Drove around a bit this afternoon. At first it was making 0.8 bar boost, but after a couple of bursts, it settled back in at 0.5 bar.

Disconnected MAF and drove 3 ft before the PSM and ABS lights came on. Probably not the MAF. I do have one on order anyway.

I had a spare F-hose, so I replaced that. I found out why they call it the F-hose, and it's not because it is shaped like the 6th letter of the alphabet. No obvious leaks on the old one. Test drive makes a consistent 0.8 bar, and I saw a couple of higher spikes when shifting. Something is still wrong.

Ordered diverter valves from Dan at Vivid. Should be here tomorrow.

This car seems to just know when it's going to the track. It's always something.
 
Old Oct 21, 2008 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by FAST FWD
Disconnected MAF and drove 3 ft before the PSM and ABS lights came on. Probably not the MAF. I do have one on order anyway.

Yes the lights will go on... but thats OK... let the idle settle down... and drive it part throttle... and as you look at the boost get on it a little harder... see if it holds 1 to 1.2 bars.... assuming you have the WGs springs at 1 bar. If you see anything over 1.3 bars let off.... blow up mode on pump gas.

In my opinion, it could be a few things.... ecu freaking out.... leaking DVS... boost leak, something installed incorrectly, etc.,... but since you didn't have the issue BEFORE you did the install I'm assuming its something you did during the install...
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MARKSKI
Yes the lights will go on... but thats OK... let the idle settle down... and drive it part throttle... and as you look at the boost get on it a little harder... see if it holds 1 to 1.2 bars.... assuming you have the WGs springs at 1 bar. If you see anything over 1.3 bars let off.... blow up mode on pump gas.

In my opinion, it could be a few things.... ecu freaking out.... leaking DVS... boost leak, something installed incorrectly, etc.,... but since you didn't have the issue BEFORE you did the install I'm assuming its something you did during the install...
Before what install? Nothing was changed and it just started doing this. The DV's and F-hose have been in for at least three years, the ECU was reflashed six months ago. Only recent changes have been lower control arms in the front, and a fuel filter.
 
Old Oct 22, 2008 | 01:50 AM
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This time try driving with the MAF disconnected and you may see a change. If you got one anyway you should still rule that out as they are not cheap. Everyone is on the right track. You have to check a bunch of stuff. It is almost always one of 4-5 things including the ecu.

How many miles on the car? How many on the plugs. Any codes. The dv's may do somthin...and check the hoses on the tops of the dv's while your in there. Next you can look at the boost cycling valve and connection and check valves.
 
Old Oct 22, 2008 | 05:13 AM
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I had the same problem,changed DV's and all ok.
About Upsolute,Markski is right,dump it as soon as possible.
I had also upsolute destroyed my exhaust valve,had a bent rod,costed me 10000 euro to repair.
I sended the upsolute flash to a German tuner to check it and he told me Upsolute raised all the knock parameters so computer didn't detect knock anymore.
I also sended the file to upsolute and they never answered me again..
 
Old Oct 22, 2008 | 06:34 PM
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Problem solved

Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions. It turned out to be the diverter valves. The more detailed version:

Took it to my independent mechanic who is really good, and willing to make time for me whenever I get these emergency issues just before I go to the track.

He found a code, I think it was 2408, Boost regulator problem. He smoke tested all the lines and found nothing. Vacuum check on the DV showed one would not hold vacuum. Dan at Vivid had shipped me overnight two new DV's and an F-hose. These were installed, and it now pulls like it did before. Makes 0.9-1.0 bar.

I disassembled the old one (a Bailey) and found the O-ring was crimped. That would've been a cheaper repair. I guess I'll get a new O-ring and keep them as spares.

As for the ECU - that's something to think about over the winter. I am not sure that I want to go much above 1.0 bar.

Thanks again to everyone for being so willing to help out!

Jon
 
Old Oct 22, 2008 | 06:51 PM
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Glad the Agency Power Valves and FHose made it happy again! Now go rip up the track
 
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