bought mine from Kevin UMW's, totally complete in crate, with no core exchange for 19k, and this was the new GT2 engine.

 

What is a good price to remove and replace an engine?

 

depends on your shop, most are 10-20 hours of labor. so say 1-2k

 

OK..........So no lets say in your case i believe you purchased a "long block" without any accessories.

How many additional hours is one looking at to take out current engine and swap in a new one taking all the needed items off your current engine.
In other words ...what is the total cost to replace an engine with a new "long block" ?

 

Hey Tom, I talked to Kevin as you had suggested and he said 27K. That was for a K16 engine. I guess they've went up considerably. How long ago did you purchase yours?

 

I couldn't find any long blocks out there. Porsche doesn't even sell them that way. As for the install I'm looking at about 2.2K or 2.3K installed w/fluids & gaskets etc.

 

Did you investigate the cost for an upgrade to Carillo Rods?

 

Yup! 5.5K labor plus rods, gaskets and you might as well replace the pistons. For a rebuild (or rod install/same coin) & about 7.9K parts/gasket set/etc. 14K - 15K total... if it's rebuildable? And that is the question. You're asking all right questions so far... I know... cause I've ask 'em!

P.S: I've been told Pauter rods are the way to go. They're just as strong and don't need to be machined for clearances.

 

seems like a year ago from what I read. I think it is more of an availability issue. But times are tough so you might find a good deal.

 

That's amazing! there is only 1 engine available right now in the states according to the Porsche dealer search.

 

sending pm

 

Yes I am. I'm fluent in pilot talk. Once airborne it goes something like this;

can we get a vector Victor, roger Roger........do you like gladiator movies?

 

Rick,

You are one calm guy. I would think most people, including myself, would be flipping out at something like this. Doesn't even seem like you are breaking a sweat.

Good luck!

 

Thanks... I keep remembering what mama always used to say... "Everything 'ill be alright in the morning!" I think she's kin to Forrest Gump!

On the serious side, everything happens for a reason... no need in getting upset over something you can't control! I'll be on the road again in a few weeks! It'll all be good!

 

yes.... good to hear you're on the mend but I would think after this event that you'd have done the rods since the (used) motor was already out....

run less boost with the new setup and live much longer. remembering that all the guys who are running 600+WHP and 600+WTQ are invariably going through crushing amounts of cash+downtime with pretty much destroys the "Porsche Experience" unless that's the ownership schedule that you originally had in mind.

the 24/18G is an incredible setup, on C16. your problem wasn't an oil pump failure, it was a boost problem that led to detonation that led to rods flying everywhere. don't run high-boost unless you've got the car 100% dialed in +C16 in the tank or it will happen again.... with 100% probability. you absolutely positively cannot run more than 1.1BAR with compressors this large on pump gas without asking for serious problems. with 1.1BAR+ on 92 Octane you might as well drive straight to the mechanic unless you've got INTERNALS to handle the mild detonation that you'd almost certainly experience with this level of output. consider that with G35's ~ Markski has a LOW BOOST setting of what? .85BAR ~ MAX ~ (or less now, depending on the turbos he's currently running) because the larger the compressor the more absolute PSI he's running per unit of BAR. People will tell you that "I run 1.2+BAR on pump gas with my 24/18G setup all the time" with no problems.... good for them... I'll see them in a year and either they don't own the car anymore or they have put so few miles on the car that there's no reason to believe that it's reliable. you don't need the rods if you ONLY show the car boost on C16 and have a custom dyno-tune where it's 100% engineered. for the real world, though, where you drive to the gas station, fill the car with premuim and do some fun drives, you safely run the car @ 1.0BAR on the best unleaded you can find and call it good.

cheaper thrills:

consider buying a used Mustang LX with a factory V8 ($3K used all day long) you can add a (COMPLETE) twin turbo setup for around $6,000.00 and make an immediate 700WHP on regular unleaded ~ and when it gets blown up, virtually new short block motors are around $1K each.

there's almost no need to do this with essentially a "street legal track car" like the Porsche Turbo Carrera ~ leave the drag racing HP-levels to the Americans ~ there's no substitute for displacement. hanging in the corners with the Germans is more fun IMHO, and the cool factor is off the charts.

SY