Bummer dude...you might have to step right up to the GT35r's...and an engine build...

 

Now that is pathetic!

 

Went to 1/4 mile event once after much chiding from my cohorts. Not my thing. My poor driving skills couldn't control the power and the results were less than stellar. Go on YouTube and search for 996 TT No Traction. I don't know how to post the link.

Did a couple of 60-130's last year on the same section of expressway near my home. Sent one of them to Kevin and he confirmed it but I didn't want him to post it. Did another one in high 5 second range but never sent it to him. This stuff really doesn't matter to me. Dyno results don't matter either because they are mostly bull ****, IMHO.

What really matters to me is that around turn 9 at Road Atlanta I can run 175 on 1.15-1.2 bar boost and that's what is important in my world. That's my type of testing and I am well satisfied with the results. The engine was built and mapped for 1.7 bar but why strain the components unnecessarily? I love the acceleration, speed and engine reliability I have enjoyed for nearly 2 years.

 

I am running the BMC. I washed some of the red oil off before I installed it.
I also use MAF cleaner periodically to insure no residual oild get through. 1 Year - No issues. Yes more power - Yes You can hear the intake sucking in the air.

Good luck

 

Wow that thing is a monster. That was a slippery 1320 you ran!!

 

Thats good to hear.. I will order one up and give it a shot...

 

I don't see how changing to an air filter which flows slightly better than the stock one will add horsepower.

 

How much particulate filtration do you give up compared to a pleated filter, with the oil washed off? Or with some washed off....

Any oil analysis to look for increase silica (due to dirt ingestion) or bearing wear?

 

The problems I've seen with the oiled filters occur after cleaning and re-oiling. If you put a little too much oil back onto the filter, MAF problems will soon arise.

 

This subject comes up as regularly and surely as the migration of snow geese...I really don't understand why folks who are running under 600 hp go thru all the added expense and trouble of buying these aftermarket filters....having MAF problems and having to spend a couple hundred dollars a whack for MAFs....go thru the added time and effort of washing, oiling, patting dry, and reinstalling these filters when there's no reliable data that they're any better than a stock one. When you get to the bigger HP, then you have a lot more to attend to than just a filter. In the meantime...if you're worried about a clogged filter, change your OEM one more frequently. Yet we seem to have a never ending litany of opinions from folks who run them and don't have any problems....then there's the ones who have unnecessarily spent a lot of money for the intake and filter setup, MAFs, downtime, diagnostics, questions to the forums etc. I guess there'll always be two camps....pros and cons. Mine's cheaper!

Also...ask Kevin over at UMW what he sees when he takes apart a turbo that's been running with an aftermarket filter....or maybe he wont' want to say because of potential flak from the vendors. ARD, tt, and flash have it right. They use the stock filter. I like to use the time honored saying from AA....If it works, don't fix it.

Oh yeah...I'm running a stock filter and have NEVER blown a MAF, never thrown a CEL, and the car is running at 1.2 bar. What else needs to be said?

 

^^ Good stuff, Chuck.

 

eyes, exactly...

 

Does the K&N main cause of the MAF problems. like psm and abs errors

 

There's been some speculation that too much air flow/velocity (such as a K&N air filter might offer?) causes a MAF failure and definite evidence that oil contamination (from said air filters) causes failures. There is also evidence that there are some airbox designs that also might contribute to the failed MAF "phenomenon".

 

My opinion? No. A hard maf failure- 'Blown Maf" in which the circuity fails, has been related to high flow motors and certain intakes that create a unique flow that causes them to blow. You get the psm.abs lights with this.

Contamination will usually cause a gradual degradation and trip other errors- either long term fuel trim faults, other codes.

With contamination you can clean them and sometime recover some performance, but after a while you get a hard oxide layer inside the maf that will not clean off and they just need replacing. Oily air filters, ingesting lots of diesel fumes, smog, etc all cause contamination.

Two different failure mechanisms, IMHO

A