ok, I checked the drawings in the PID, its an M8x16 mm screw, so 8 mm Diameter, 16 mm length, easy to get Thanks

 

This is not correct. I think an M8x16 is for standard 996TT not gt2. And I am not sure that M8x16x80 means anything either. This is just not proper hardware sizing format. If this is supposed to mean M8x80mm then the pictures from the other threads look like they are longer than 80mm. More like over 100mm. So the way the sizing should be is:M8x80x1.5 for example. So diameter x length x thread pitch. If anybody has any input or measurements, I would appreciate the help. I am collecting parts for this and have found a lot of cryptic info out there.

 

I recommend one of two things... Contact suncoast or check my DIY thread on this subject...
Been four years since I did this conversion myseld and four years since I sold my 996TT converted to functional GT2 specs.
Mike

 

I looked all through your thread and did not see anything beyond what we already discussed pertaining to the bolts. But I will try suncoast.

BTW, how are you liking the GT3?

 

Sold the GT3 after a year... Havent owned a Porsche since 2013... Sadly...

 

but the other cars are coming along nicely!

 

The community needs you! Get another one! 😃

 

Think I recall asking this from someone, can't remember if the 16 was for TPI (threads per inch), not correct for a metric bolt or was it the length of the threaded part?

 

Yes, you're right, I've found only the M8x16 bolt, unfortunately nothing else. I'm also on my way to collect all the necessary parts to complete this.
So many people here who did this but nobody can say for sure which part number, for sure the best way will be to give a call to any of the dealers. Pls let me know for any news

 

I just mocked it up on my car. Looks like a M8x80 is the right size. The thread is course metric. The hardware store I got them from did not define specific thread pitch, just course. The spacers that keep the duct off the lines and trunk structure can be improvised fairly easily if they are hard to get from the dealership or priced stupid. I have a lathe so I just turned down some aluminum in 30 minutes to make mine. Super easy. For the flip and tilt I pulled the upper and lower radiator frame off and installed them so the flat straight piece is on the other side of the radiator. And the same for the U-shaped radiator frame as well. But, when you flip the u-shaped frame make sure you also rotate it so the tabs that the long bolts and spacers go through are oriented closest to the ducting. The stock 996TT configures these so that the tabs are flush with the front edge of the radiator which is farthest away from where that duct would be. I will snap some before and after pictures for reference latter. As for the water piping and lower radiator mount brackets. I will simply bend the lower brackets to match up to the new angle. By my measurements these brackets are angled ~8degrees aft tilt. This means I will need to bend forward by ~28degrees the opposite direction. Should be pretty easy. For the water pipes I just need to add a 45 degree 1" elbow that will extend the existing stock hoses to meet the hard pipe. To make the existing hoses work I will rotate them to clock the existing angle that they have to allow the 45 degree elbow to fit. Currently I see no need to buy new hose just to cut up again. But, once it is done I will report back with updates.

 

I just finished modifying the lower radiator brackets for the proper tilt. Took less than an hour. Now I just need to get the hoses now that I know where the radiator lives.





I do have a question for those who know the setup well. What seals the duct that goes from the outlet of the radiator seal into the hood vent frame? The rest of the setup makes sense but that. Seems like there are opportunities for air to leak around the ducts.

 

can you show a few close up pics of the tilt and how you modded them? were do the spacers go? i don't think theres any seal from the ductwork to the upper grill. you could try some weatherstripping from lowes

i also think theres a spacer that goes behind the aluminum bumper bracket. the spacer goes behind the black t shaped piece

 

I will take some more pics showing the brackets. Nothing magical to see. Just brackets that get bent. You basically set the distance and location between the upper part of the duct near the trunk. Keep the bottom radiator located near where the lower mount is and you can see where the bracket needs to be bent to. You will also need to be sure that once the lower mounts are bent that the radiator is not sitting too low. Once the rough angle is bent, you bolt up the radiator and make final adjustments with it bolted up to the lower brackets to get proper position. I am building the bumper support spacers tomorrow. Should be pretty easy.