First Thing I'd like to say is this is not a question about upgrades...Rather Maintenance.

1) I got my 04 996 TT a month a ago. I've noticed that I have to pump the brakes at least once before I feel a strong grab. Is this Normal???
If not what could it be?

2) What brakes pads do you any of you recommend over stock replacements?

nomad

 

No, this is not normal. Usually this is because the pistons are sticking. Could be that the car was sitting a long time? Here are 2 possible fixes:
- Jack car, remove wheels, pop out pads. Replace pad with a thin piece of metal - e.g. an old pad. Doesn't have to fit well, just cover the pistons. Pump pistons in to the thin metal, then retract them. Repeat a few times. This can lubricate the seals and solve the problem.
- Rebuild all calipers. Not hard, but the parts cost about $200 (GMG or Stoptech) and it takes a lot longer.

I don't. Some people will chime in here and tell you to buy various versions of race pads (Pagid in various colors, etc.). If you drive your car on the street, this is a bad choice, in my opinion. Racing pads (used on the street) are less effective, noisier and dirtier that street pads.

Jon

 

Sometimes it is just air...bleed the brakes and see if it improves...or better yet maybe replace the fluid, check your maintence manual there is a place to sign off on this...see if it has been done before..and when?

 

I had this problem when I upgraded my brakes. Re-bled the system and all was well. Do this before spending on anything.
I agree with Jon about the brake pads.

 

Yes, flushing/bleeding is the first thing you should do.

Jon

 

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

 

Thanks for the advice. I did the flush and checked the calipers and ultimately took it to the shop...I need rotors

 

If your brake fluid has never been changed, now is a good time to flush and bleed until you have a nice firm pedal. Brake fluid is only good for 2 years, less if you track it. If you plan on doing any track days, upgrade the fluid to SRF or another high performance alternative or you will experience brake fade.

 

Do you absolutely trust this shop? I'm a newb to all of this too, but I don't see how what you're describing could be attributed to rotors--unless they're SERIOUSLY messed up Just be careful you don't get screwed.

 

Well It seems that the rotors were rotated or resurfaced is another way to say what was wrong with them. Basically the rotors are too thin. and not only are my brakes soft I feel a flutter. Which could mean they're warped/warping. That's why I brought it to the dealer. I know the service manager and I trust em. The symptoms sugested the rotors but I was hoping for something else The shop was the last step.

 

2nd.

 

OK, if you trust the manager, then that's a good thing. I had a warped rotor on my Vette at one time--every time I came to a stop, it felt like I was riding a bucking bronco ...ended up changing them and the pads and the brakes felt like new again...good luck

 

Hope this works out. If you plan to track your car, you really should learn to change the rotors yourself, because these cars are hard on rotors. If you can flush the brake fluid, you can change the rotors. Here's the easy step-by-step:

1. Remove wheels and brake pads.
2. Unscrew the two phillips head screws that hold the rotor in place.
3. Unbolt two allen head screws that hold caliper to spindle. Most people suspend the caliper from a bungie cord looped through the spring while you swap rotors. After some practice, you can hold the caliper in one hand and swap the rotors with the other.
4. Run the sequence backwards to reinstall.

After doing the first one, it will take 15 minutes. A little anti-sieze on the screws and bolts is a good idea.

The only thing that you need to be especially careful about is not to overtorque the caliper bolts when you put them back. The spindle is aluminum, the bolts are steel. If you overtorque, you will strip the threads out of the spindle. Don't ask me how I know. The proper torque is 63 ft-lbs.

Jon