Criag,
It all depends on the scope of work and what will be done.

 

Great stuff, keep it coming!!

 

There are various sensor and solenoids that will need to be reinstalled. Below is the solenoid that adjusts the oil pressure to the variocam. This is the upper sprocket that will lock in and out causing the car to jump 25 degrees on mechanical cam timing.


It housing location is on top of the cam housing. Install a new oring and seat. I always recommend a little silicone paste, not glue around the o’rings.



Next is the tappet locking solenoid. This is the unit that allows oil pressure to flow to allow the tappets in to change profile from 3 to 10mm lift.



Its installed location is in the middle of the valve cover.


.
Also in the in the scope of sensors is the hall effect sensor. The intake cam has a wheel located on it that allows the car’s ECU to count where the cam is location wise. This used with various other sensors will establish the ability to run sequential fuel injection.






Knock sensors placed in location on top of the cylinder bank



Next reinstall the water pipes under the cylinder head. Once again use new orings.

 

Next you will want to install the front support for the hydraulic pump and alternator. You may want to install water pipes that are on the inlet of the cylinder assembly at the same time.



Sure hope you took the time to look at the original routing of the lines. This is not the easiest thing to recall. Route the lines to the slave cylinder so that the runners on the left bank catch and hold the lines. Go over the oil filter console and under and around to the pump. There a few clips along the way. If you are doing it right then the lines should hit the clips. I suggest the factory manuals for routing or detail drawings/pictures.



Install the fuel line to the fuel cooler in the manner you see below. It has to be this direction in order to fit.



Next install the water lines that run to the pump and console. These become brittle with heat so careful.




Next prep and install gasket and injector blocks.




Install new orings and clips and install injectors and rails.



Notice the fuel line in the rear of the rail. That runs to the front of the right rail. Install these as well as the rear line from the FPR to the fuel cooler.



At this point double check all your hose clamps and install the air pump lines from the switch over valve to the left injector block runner.
Now lay the harness in the general location. Once again it is obvious ( to me at least) what Porsche has in mind. There are only a few clips here and there. If you have it right you will hit them without stress. If you don’t then you will know it.

 

This is where my nice clean looking motor goes to hell.



Reconnect all the sensors and wires to their locations.
Once completed reinstall the oil tank and lines. Then the air smog pump. You must install the tank first.



Install turbos and turbo vent lines.
Next prep the spark plugs with anti-seize on the threads




Install the plugs.



Torque plugs to 22ft lbs.



Next install coil packs and torque to 7.5 ft lbs




Reinstall heat shield



Now ready the clutch and tranny and install in the car. I probably will not follow the rest of the in car install. If anyone has any questions please let me know.

 

This is just beyond the pale. Thanks again for taking the time to do all that... :-)

 

Yeah that is f-in sweet. Thanks for sharing, Stephen.

 

Stephen, I always said you were first class. Very nice job. Thanks, Richard

 

You guys are welcome. Thanks for the kind words.

 

Whoah nice-looking coating on the turbo... White? Never seen that

 

sharkster,

Do you have any idea of the amount of power picked up by coating your hot turbo housing?

 

Oh no kidding Kevin convinced me of that a loooong time ago no turbo "uncoated" ever touches a car of mine

 

Stephen - are you coating the GT Turbos? (K16/Garrett)

 

Stephen, that was simply amazing.

 

Yes, and the headers. No Alex, you have never seen this coating.